First time doing timing belt/ cam seals. Help!

[The Edge]

I’ve read a lot of posts on the procedure, studied videos and the Haynes manual. I’ve proceeded carefully, but I need some help.

 

I followed the Haynes manual to remove the #1 idler and the #2 idler sprocket first. To my surprise, the tensioner snapped down, spinning the left (drivers point of view) cam sprockets When I removed the #2 sprocket. I gently tried to rotate them back in position but stopped when I felt resistance. See picture to see the position they are now at. How do I get them properly back in position?

 

Neil

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-GcO3uNctAm6GGEnTGsEf8yAHKn9psoU/view?usp=drivesdk

Edited June 16, 2020 by The Edge
No photo

[Chocoholic005]

Your google drive isn't accessible.

 

That being said; this sounds about right. When the timing belt is installed, at least one of the cylinders will have the valves open and want to snap shut when tension is released. There's a special tool to hold the cam gears in place (that you should have used to get the cam gears off) which helps you get everything correctly aligned when re-installing the belt.

[DaveWaters]

 

Top right is the procedure to realign the timing marks. They will be under tension but doing it that way means there won’t be interference. I turn them both at the same time which is made far easier with the Company23 tool.

[DaveWaters]

You need this

 

http:// http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

[The Edge]

Your google drive isn't accessible.

 

That being said; this sounds about right. When the timing belt is installed, at least one of the cylinders will have the valves open and want to snap shut when tension is released. There's a special tool to hold the cam gears in place (that you should have used to get the cam gears off) which helps you get everything correctly aligned when re-installing the belt.

 

I’ve made the link to the photo accessible. I should have mentioned that the crankshaft and camshafts were all lined up before the tension released. So what you’re saying is that it wasn’t the tensioner but the camshaft that was under pressure that moved?. I wasn’t aware of that and the Haynes manual and many of the tutorials I read failed to mention that. I haven’t removed the camshaft pulleys yet. I thought a sprocket/ pulley holding tool to remove cam pulley bolts was all I’d need. I have seen the tool that holds the intake and exhaust cam pulleys together but it wasn’t available locally. I see now that would be the right tool to use. The pulley that moved was the driver side intake. Are you saying That when I line it back up to put the belt on it will be under tension?

[Chocoholic005]

The tensioner holds the belt tight and thus all 4 camshafts in the same position relative to eachother. Once that tension is released, the camshafts all can move independent of one another. 2 or 3 will likely be in the closed (valve) position when the tension is released, so they shouldn't move much if at all. But 1 or 2 will be in the open position, meaning the valves are open, which is putting pressure on the lobes of the camshaft. Those valves aren't going to want to stay open once the camshaft is free to move, so the camshaft rotates as the valves slam shut. This is what you witnessed. Nothing to worry about here, as that's just natural. You could have prevented it using the tool that holds the intake/exhaust together, but its not a big deal.

 

When you go to put everything back together, you don't need this tool, but it makes things a hell of a lot easier. Otherwise you'll probably need a second set of hands to hold/rotate the pulleys that want to sit in the valve open position when setting timing.

[Max Capacity]

you need to read this thread and the one I have linked to it.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html

[dgoodhue]

Unless your cam seals are leaking, I personally would leave them be. They are on tight, you will need specialty tools, and there is a potential to break/strip the cam gear bolts.