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05 LGT 5spd EJ257 Type RA Build


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  • 2 months later...

UPDATE

 

Well, it's been a while since I've posted anything on the car. Life has been getting in the way and every time I get some money saved for a tune something else pops up. Life I guess! I've been working slowly but surely on the car. She's pretty much buttoned up. Over the weekend I finished installing the 08 wrx radiator. I'm glad I read that write-up in detail because she went in perfectly. My old radiator had a bottom piece broken where it goes into the bottom radiator mount.

 

I've installed the front coilovers only. I still need to get the rear installed and dialed in. I also picked up a BaysonR front lip and I must say it's a very nice lip. Things left to install is the IAG AOS, Grimmspeed TMIC, BPV, and AEM Fuel Pump. I also recently picked up a double din head unit that I'll be doing a video with the Tight Fit Fab's i88 harness. I'm close to the finish line!!

 

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http://i.imgur.com/DnzHWEKl.jpg

 

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry for not keeping this thread updated.

 

Well, I got her running finally last night but I'm having the p0340 error code. The car has new cam position sensors. I replaced the driver’s side sensor with one of the old ones and I'm still throwing the same code. I have one other old one that was on the engine that I'm going to throw in. I hope it fixes my problem. If not any other ideas why it could be throwing that code? Someone mentioned in a Facebook group that I should replace the driver's side since it’s the same code for both sides?

 

I forgot to mention one thing that's happening is the driver’s side fan instantly turns on when I power on the car. My temp gauge is working properly and stays at a normal temperature. It's not showing as overheating. It started happening when I hooked up my battery charger/ jumper and set it at 200 amps. I hooked up a charger when I was loading up a base map. I did check it out this morning. I unplugged the fan relay and switched the relay with the AC relay just to test and the fan did not turn on. Then I switched back the relays to their original spot and the fan still didn’t turn on. Hopefully, that was the fix. I really want to get the car on the road. It’s been sitting for 2 years and I only drove it for 3 weeks so I want to finally enjoy this thing.

 

Any help is very much welcome!

 

KrX67D6l.mp4

 

https://imgur.com/KrX67D6

Edited by k00laid83
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Sorry for not keeping this thread updated.

 

Well, I got her running finally last night but I'm having the p0340 error code. The car has new cam position sensors. I replaced the driver’s side sensor with one of the old ones and I'm still throwing the same code. I have one other old one that was on the engine that I'm going to throw in. I hope it fixes my problem. If not any other ideas why it could be throwing that code? Someone mentioned in a Facebook group that I should replace the driver's side since it’s the same code for both sides?

 

I forgot to mention one thing that's happening is the driver’s side fan instantly turns on when I power on the car. My temp gauge is working properly and stays at a normal temperature. It's not showing as overheating. It started happening when I hooked up my battery charger/ jumper and set it at 200 amps. I hooked up a charger when I was loading up a base map. I did check it out this morning. I unplugged the fan relay and switched the relay with the AC relay just to test and the fan did not turn on. Then I switched back the relays to their original spot and the fan still didn’t turn on. Hopefully, that was the fix. I really want to get the car on the road. It’s been sitting for 2 years and I only drove it for 3 weeks so I want to finally enjoy this thing.

 

Any help is very much welcome!

 

KrX67D6l.mp4

 

https://imgur.com/KrX67D6

 

Well after going through the whole car again after work. I found that the connector itself had the one of the wires completely corroded through and not hooked up. Another wire on the connector was bare showing bare wire. I went on iwire and ordered a new pigtail hopefully that will fix my p0340 error code.

 

There were a few things I failed to update while putting the engine together. My tuner recommended that I think about Cobbs fuel pressure sensor kit. Then I thought why the heck can't I just make my own. After a ton of research I finally got my harness built and installed on the car. I think overall it looks pretty clean.

 

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Very cool. I did something similar for my fuel pressure and oil pressure. I took over one of the TGV sensor plugs and I have the ability to switch the plug between oil pressure sensor or fuel pressure sensor. Since I used the same type of sensor for each I can use the same gauge on BtSSM as the formula is the same for either one.
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Very cool. I did something similar for my fuel pressure and oil pressure. I took over one of the TGV sensor plugs and I have the ability to switch the plug between oil pressure sensor or fuel pressure sensor. Since I used the same type of sensor for each I can use the same gauge on BtSSM as the formula is the same for either one.

 

That's good to know. I might consider looking into doing an oil pressure sensor for the other TGV sensor plugs. We'll see what the future brings for this car.

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I would have put one on each TGV input, but I have a wideband on the passenger side TGV input, so the other two have to share the driver's side TGV input.

 

I was talking with a tuner and he recommended that I buy a wideband AFR gauge. I know they're good and the only reason he wants me to pick one up is because vf52 have a tendency to boost creep. Do you guys think it's a good investment to buy an AFR gauge?

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The beauty of having your wideband hooked up to BtSsm is the ability to not only view the AFR data live but to log it seamlessly, and compare it to your target AFR (from your tune). This way, you know where you need to adjust the tune and possibly get more powa.
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The beauty of having your wideband hooked up to BtSsm is the ability to not only view the AFR data live but to log it seamlessly, and compare it to your target AFR (from your tune). This way, you know where you need to adjust the tune and possibly get more powa.

 

I'm looking into getting an AEM air fuel gauge and I'm going to see how to set it up to use the other available TGV connector on the drivers side. Or maybe I can just remove the O2 sensor from the downpipe and use the wideband signal instead.

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Just saying my vf52 has been at 21psi since Aug 2011, on stock fueling, without any A/F or other gauging on the car. That was over 150,000 miles ago.

 

It's all in the tune. No need to ever adjust it, if it's right from the start.

 

tuningalliance@gmail.com

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Just saying my vf52 has been at 21psi since Aug 2011, on stock fueling, without any A/F or other gauging on the car. That was over 150,000 miles ago.

 

It's all in the tune. No need to ever adjust it, if it's right from the start.

 

tuningalliance@gmail.com

 

That's very good to hear, I might reach out to them. I've currently been talking with MK Tuned and based on what I've seen he's e-tuned several cars in my area with great success. Either way, I'll contact Tuning Alliance before I pull the trigger on anything.

 

You never know though :hide:

 

That's a great point. I did see that Tuning Alliance offers Innovate Logable Wideband kit. I also saw that iwire offers a similar kit but uses AEM Inline Wideband Kit with iWire Plug and Play harness. I could do the wiring but it's nice to see there is something out there that's plug and play

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update

 

So I've been having a ton of issues with the car. I had to replace the right cam position sensor connector since the old owner or the mechanic I bought the car from did a hack job. He just twisted wires and used electrical tape.

 

I was also getting a misfire in cylinders 1 and 3, I didn't realize that I had the connectors backward. I figured the longer harness would go to the front cylinder just like on the driver's side. Well, I was mistaken, I switched around coil packs and then realized that the connectors were incorrect. I finally found my issue but still had a misfire in cylinder 3. Long story short it looks like someone just shoved the wires back in the connector and one wire was just twisted on. So just some janky work that wasn't done correctly.

 

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Luckily, I have a pick n pull nearby and found a 6 cylinder legacy that I was able to cut both sides of the coil pack connectors. I repaired the harness and now she's running great!

 

My tuner has been amazing and helpful! I ended up ordering the iwire wideband kit and now I'm just waiting for my vent gauge pod to come in so I can install it.

 

I'm planning on taking the car to work tomorrow and getting her fully broken in.

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  • 3 months later...

Update

 

Well, it's been a while since I've been on here. I've really enjoyed the car and driving it daily. The car got Etuned on the virtual dyno at 296whp and 336lb-ft of torque on 91 octane. I've done a few more upgrades like new wheels (Enkei NT-03M) and hood struts. Nothing really crazy! Next year I'll be upgrading the vf52 to a Grimmspeed turbo and should put me closer to the 400hp range I hope. Honestly, the car feels super responsive and who knows I might just leave it as is. I'm also going to start bodywork and paint for the car after this summer. That's the next thing to be done to the car. Also, upgrade the suspension arms and probably get better coilovers to replace the used ones I bought for her. I just want to get her a bit more cleaned up. Here are a few pics of the car and one with my 240sx.

 

 

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GREAT write up!! It's nice to see a new build as Maxcapacity's build is always the one I go back to for reference. It was really cool to see him post in here and that he is still so active LOL.

 

Thanks for posting from start to finish and the car looks great.

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So what's this body work stuff you talk about, wish my wagon looked that good...;)

 

There are a bunch of dings all around the car especially over the rear quarter panels above the wheels. I also have surface rust on the roof by the windshield. The old owner must had a roof rack on the car because you can see bunch of dents and scratches.

 

Also thanks for the compliment. The car is coming along slowly but surely.

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