Max Capacity Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 I wouldn't waste synthetic oil until you got to about 2-3000 miles. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zze86 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 There are two things in the synthetic that I am interested in: The cold/warm viscosity spread rating and detergent additives. 5w for the cold start ups since overnight temps are still hitting the 30s, 40w for once it warms up to maintain better lubrication/protection. Hard to find this combo in a dino oil. Most synthetics also have detergent additives that help clean the passageways. Hopefully, help get more crap out of there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 I think you may be looking at +$200 in oil an additives Depending on brands Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zze86 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 I think you may be looking at +$200 in oil an additives Depending on brands All said, it'll probably be more. By my estimation: Oil - ~$25/gallon x 5 = ~$125 Additives - ~$30 total Filters - ~$8/filter x 5 ~$40 Gaskets/Sealant - ~$10/change x 5 = ~$50 Degreasers/Cleaners ~$30 Total ~$285 If I didn't know any better, I'd swear I was working on a german marque, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 You are wasting your time and throwing good money after bad trying to salvage the motor. You are just making your $3k rebuild into a $4k rebuild. The turbo fins wore from the turbo bearings failing. It will be your engine bearing that are going to fail and ultimately doom your engine in short order. The bearings are already damaged, flushing and cannot reverse the damage. This is a known and common issue. Hundreds of other 4th Gen GT owners in this forum have experience the same exact issue. If your have the skill and resources, you can pull the motor apart, clean it and rebuild it with new bearings. If that or $3k for a new short block is not a possibility, you may just want to cut your losses and sell the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Doing some rough estimations, assuming you got $450 option from hill country. You may be looking over $1000 for all the current fixes. When the engine gives out, however, the two components you will not be able to reuse is the oil cooler, gaskets, oil, and most likely turbo. Those combined may put you out at least $700-800 which is quite a bit of money to get a car 10k more miles. A proper rebuild can give you 20 times that if done correctly. Again, I know you have weighed this all out, but the amount of metal in the pan does not look good from the photos. I would recommend taking some time and saving up for the worst. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zze86 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 I appreciate the advice all. As I've said before I'm fairly certain there is damage to the engine already. I'm not hoping to "fix" it with my oil-ing procedure. Merely minimize any more damage and prolong complete failure. I did look into rebuilding the engine myself as I've rebuilt a few other engines before including an EJ but doing it proper with all the machine work, new rod/crank/main bearings, rings, possibly new pistons, head bolts, gaskets/seals, oil pump etc I was near the price of the short block already. If this were a "regular" engine, I'd just pull the oil pan, and go to town without even taking the engine out of the vehicle, but there's no way around splitting the case that I'm aware of. Not to mention the only machine shop around here that I would trust to work on Japanese engines is essentially closed for another month. Right now, it'll be around $800 once it's all together. I guess the upside of this Covid-19 thing is that a lot of sites are having sales on parts, lol. I'm actually ditching the oil cooler in favor of a larger oil filter. There's no way it's actually doing anything to help cool the oil where it's at. I gave 10K as a rough number. I figure if it goes another 10K, I'm in the clear. That being said, @dwmccauley01 is probably right. I'm probably too close to the project right now and should just step back for a moment to re-assess. My ECU and wideband for my S2000 is finally in after a 3-month wait and I've been jonesing to get that in and working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 You have come to the same understanding as my buddy who owns a auto machine shop when I asked about a rebuild. He told me the buy a EJ257 and have them redo the heads. That was April 2012, that engine is still running great 135,000 miles later. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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