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Massive detonation, help!


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Curious on the fitment and quality of the rev 9.

 

Very impressed with the quality and fitment of this "cheap" inlet. As you know, changing these out is a PITA anyway but this one slipped right on and everything aligned up great! Its a little larger (better flow) so it was tight but nothing impossible.

 

Just an update for all that have been keeping up, the detonation rattle is gone! Replacing the inlet certainly helped but I still have that annoying damn stumble and stutter under boost from 4000-5000rpm.

 

LTFT's are now at +2.5-5.5

 

I'm going to replace the 02 sensors next, I'm thinking they are original and have to be reading false.

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Very impressed with the quality and fitment of this "cheap" inlet. As you know, changing these out is a PITA anyway but this one slipped right on and everything aligned up great! Its a little larger (better flow) so it was tight but nothing impossible.

 

Just an update for all that have been keeping up, the detonation rattle is gone! Replacing the inlet certainly helped but I still have that annoying damn stumble and stutter under boost from 4000-5000rpm.

 

LTFT's are now at +2.5-5.5

 

I'm going to replace the 02 sensors next, I'm thinking they are original and have to be reading false.

 

I was very happy with Rev9 TMIC fitment. They machined out bolt reliefs so you can get a socket on the turbo bolts. They took an original design and made it better. Glad to hear the inlet was a good fit!

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Can you report each LTFT for each specific MAF range? It is even more helpful.

How are your OCV angles?

 

Sorry, I don't think the OBD logger I have can go quite that far....

 

I did notice the LTFT's are trending back towards -2.56 now as an average since I'm putting more miles on it. So that tells me its a little rich and the ECU is pulling some fuel but is -2.5% anything to worry about? Well within normal ranges I believe, right?

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+/- 5% is good across all MAF ranges. That's the general rule.

 

 

Logging the OCV angles would have been nice though, as it would confirm whether they are both in sync. If they are not in sync, the car will definitely act up at times especially under load.

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+/- 5% is good across all MAF ranges. That's the general rule.

 

 

Logging the OCV angles would have been nice though, as it would confirm whether they are both in sync. If they are not in sync, the car will definitely act up at times especially under load.

 

Thanks, can you give me a little more details on OCV angles? Thinking maybe my logging app could have it under a different PID name? Are you referring to the TGV's?

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Oil control valves, which is the acvs, I'm not entirely positive but cam angle sensor might be the same thing.

 

Most of us have gone the route of logging with romraider or btssm to get the in depth stuff. I see you're in Ocala, maybe there's someone around there or Tampa who could let you do a log with their tactrix cable or btssm. Post up in the regional forums here or nasioc.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Oil control valves, which is the acvs, I'm not entirely positive but cam angle sensor might be the same thing.

 

Most of us have gone the route of logging with romraider or btssm to get the in depth stuff. I see you're in Ocala, maybe there's someone around there or Tampa who could let you do a log with their tactrix cable or btssm. Post up in the regional forums here or nasioc.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks man! Appreciate the help! I'm looking at buying a Tactrix cable now... might bite the bullet and try a tune to at least get rid of that damn open loop delay... Is it really that simple? That cable and the free software and I can write a simple tune to just remove that delay?

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Yes and no. Look up covertrussians tuning posts. I think they are the simplest to read, however the tables are different in the 08 and I couldn't easily figure out how to turn it off. I just paid for an e-tune with dave at cryo who is supposed to be both great, and also posts on the forums a bit. He's been wonderful in responding to emails from me. So I didn't dig into much.

 

It was however that simple to delete the tgv codes. I think the $65 I paid for btssm, you should just get a tactrix. I now have both because I don't actually own a windows computer.

 

Also was checking stuff this morning and noticed that on btssm I have the ocv as VVT (Variable valve timing) so check that as well in what you currently have.

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Our OCVs receive commands from the ECU, used to adjust to a certain degree when the intake valves open and close (some additional info at the beginning of this post). Provided the OCVs are in good working order, they will do their job well if oil flows freely through them. For example, if one or more banjo bolt filters are clogged, then they will act up. You said your removed them. Did you remove both or just one?

 

There is one OCV on top of each head. In BtSsm or the like, the reported variable for these is an angle (unit: degree). Both OCV angles should be almost identical at all times. If one is lagging behind, it may result in performance issues.

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Our OCVs receive commands from the ECU, used to adjust to a certain degree when the intake valves open and close (some additional info at the beginning of this post). Provided the OCVs are in good working order, they will do their job well if oil flows freely through them. For example, if one or more banjo bolt filters are clogged, then they will act up. You said your removed them. Did you remove both or just one?

 

There is one OCV on top of each head. In BtSsm or the like, the reported variable for these is an angle (unit: degree). Both OCV angles should be almost identical at all times. If one is lagging behind, it may result in performance issues.

 

Thank you! Makes sense, I'm pretty certain my logging app did show something regarding VVT, so I'll try and look at that tonight.

 

And you are correct, I didn't only remove the banjo filter from the fitting on the turbo, I didn't realize there were 2 of them... guess i have more reading/research to do!

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The other is behind the timing cover on the driver side head. It's not the easiest to reach and is not considered the most critical, but if your ocv are off then that could be it. Xtbonbon knows their stuff and has helped me out some with similar issues.

 

 

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I am still learning :spin:.

 

 

But yeah, that other one is a pain in the butt to access. Before messing with it though, it is always good to make sure the OCVs work fine. If they do, then this should imply the filter is just fine and you can leave it alone.

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