Max Capacity Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 May be stop half way there for a while to let the gas evaporate. May be google gas in the cats or something like that and see what you get. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berge56 Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 I wouldn't risk it. Rent a car and get your engine fixed. Plan on a new shortblock and rebuilding the heads as your worse case scenario. Any shop that tears the engine down should be able to identify exactly what is broken. as others have said, you can pop the piston out of the cylinder in question to inspect the ring lands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 do you know about BTSSM? if you have an Android phone and this app and an appropriate obd2 dongle, you can then log the ECU parameters. This way, you will know if you are actually misfiring while driving. It will report misfires per cylinder. This happened to me once when I swapped injectors and one of them was not sitting properly. It dumped quite an amount of fuel in the cylinder while I was driving and was misfiring intermittently. When I got home the up pipe was glowing red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Also, when it's misfiring bad, the cel will actually blink iirc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Yes, blinking CEL is serious. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Yeah, in that case, it is misfiring nonstop. That's when you can mess up your cat and possibly your block too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtavious Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 It was occasionally blinking before I got the new centerpipe put in, usually when idling at a light. Since then I've driven it an absolute minimum. Maybe 15 miles. No blinking in that time, but that's probably not all the relevant. I rented a car yesterday and might take my car in for a leakdown test at another garage before it goes in next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtavious Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 do you know about BTSSM? if you have an Android phone and this app and an appropriate obd2 dongle, you can then log the ECU parameters. This way, you will know if you are actually misfiring while driving. It will report misfires per cylinder. This happened to me once when I swapped injectors and one of them was not sitting properly. It dumped quite an amount of fuel in the cylinder while I was driving and was misfiring intermittently. When I got home the up pipe was glowing red I do have an android phone. Are one of these dongles available on Amazon? May as well have one on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Go to the btssm website and see what is compatible. -->https://www.btssm.com/?page=hardware Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtavious Posted December 23, 2019 Author Share Posted December 23, 2019 Any relatively low cost things I should have these guys do when they get the engine out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 View the sticky at the top of the engine rebuild forum or just think about how long some things have been on the engine and replace the more difficult to get to items. Heater hoses are a good starting point... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted December 26, 2019 Share Posted December 26, 2019 Any relatively low cost things I should have these guys do when they get the engine out? low cost and 2005 LGT don't go together. Check out my thread, there is a link to a google sheets with my shopping list for while my engine is out. It is almost everything but the kitchen sink and new shortblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtavious Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 So, I had the work done. One valve was replaced the others got resurfaced. They did the timing belt, gaskets, the small turbo hose, etc. (It's all listed on the work order). Drove it for about a week and it all felt pretty good. MPG seemed a bit on the low side, but I've done zero highway driving (sitting at 21.6 MPG over the last 150 miles). Anyway, today the check engine came back on with code P0171. Super frustrating. Possible that they missed tightening something up when they put it all back together? Front 02 sensor is fairly new. Only about 18 months old. Popped the hood to see if there was anything obvious going on and it felt like there was air flowing up from the left side of the engine, so maybe an exhaust leak or a leak around the air filter? I can't say for sure, but I feel as though anytime I've looked at the engine while it was running before today and I never felt any significant amount of air moving on the left side of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 So one valve was burned then? An exhaust valve I presume? P0171 is the code for running lean. You most likely have a large vacuum leak and the ecu is not able to compensate for it. An easy test is to block the intake hose (e.g. with a spray paint can cap), unhook the small bypass valve vacuum hose, then blow as hard as you can through it. Then listen for a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 This post describes the method I mentioned (and some other things too). https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4491795&postcount=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtavious Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 I took out the MAF and one side of the red tipped sensor piece had a decent amount of gunk on it. Do MAFs typically have a bit of dirt on them or are they usually clean? I cleaned it up and put it back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Yes dirty MAF is bad. The MAF is delicate. Use [MAF cleaner] and make sure to clean up inside the top as well. Take a close look and you’ll see the MAF element up inside an opening near the top. I believe the part you cleaned is the intake air temp sensor. If you’re using a k&n panel filter or any other oiled filter it must be lightly oiled or the oil can collect on the MAF and it won’t meter properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 ^+1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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