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Help!!! Trying to pick a legacy GT to buy!!!


Cowens36

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Hello,

 

First off, this is my first post but I have been doing a lot of research using this forum so thank you all for the information.

 

I have always loved the idea of an STI or WRX but I’m a family man and those just won’t work which is why the Legacy is perfect. I want a manual trans, plenty of mod potential, and a reliable vehicle.

 

Here is my questions.

What are your thoughts on buying a modded car versus a stock car to mod yourself? I want to go at least stage 3 which would be intake, down pipe, up pipe, cat back, intercooler, boost controller, bov, and possibly if everything is still solid maybe up to the VF52. Of course I want to do some suspension and brake upgrades as well but for the appearance mostly stock.

 

Second question is kind of similar to the first. What is your opinion of a car with a replacement motor? I know the EJ25 has an issue with the ring lands and the head gasket but is it normal for a car to get a replacement motor? How big of an issue is it if the car has a replaced motor? Rebuilt motor I’m not so concerned with as long as I know who did the work and that there is documentation on what went into the engine.

 

Last question. Are the 5MT trans as bulletproof as I have heard or are there issues I should be aware of? Same question with the 6speed in the “spec b”.

 

Here are the stats on the cars I’m looking at. Please give me your opinion on each.

 

2005 LGT, 5MT, 104k, mods: up pipe, down pipe, intake, charge pipe, cat back, tein coil overs, sway bars, needs carrier bearing. $4k

 

2008 L Spec B, 6speed, 159k, BONE STOCK with all service records from date of purchase, does have a reconstructed title due to being hit in the rear but it was inspected and verified that it was only the horns for the bumper mount which was repaired. $7k

 

2007 LGT, 132k, stage 2, clean car with no real issues. $5k

 

2005 LGT, 150k on the body and 12k on the engine rebuild, stage 2, big brake kit, $5k

 

Please give me your honest feedback on the questions and the cars I’m looking at. I would appreciate it.

 

Thank

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2005 LGT, 5MT, 104k, mods: up pipe, down pipe, intake, charge pipe, cat back, tein coil overs, sway bars, needs carrier bearing. $4k

 

2008 L Spec B, 6speed, 159k, BONE STOCK with all service records from date of purchase, does have a reconstructed title due to being hit in the rear but it was inspected and verified that it was only the horns for the bumper mount which was repaired. $7k - Hell no

 

2007 LGT, 132k, stage 2, clean car with no real issues. $5k - This one :)

 

2005 LGT, 150k on the body and 12k on the engine rebuild, stage 2, big brake kit, $5k

 

Just so you know you will be putting some money into these turbo subies. These don't have head gasket issues like the 2.5i did. I always tell people to get the car and drive it for 8 months before you do anything so you know what to expect. have a REAL subie shop give I a once over. Do all fluids and maintenance and NEVER listen to the person selling you the car on what they did unless they have all records. I would give 4k tops for that 07 LGT. Also get a new tune not that OTS stage stuff.

 

Remember to really have a good subie buddy or someone that knows these go with you to look at it.

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2005 LGT, 5MT, 104k, mods: up pipe, down pipe, intake, charge pipe, cat back, tein coil overs, sway bars, needs carrier bearing. $4k

 

2008 L Spec B, 6speed, 159k, BONE STOCK with all service records from date of purchase, does have a reconstructed title due to being hit in the rear but it was inspected and verified that it was only the horns for the bumper mount which was repaired. $7k - Hell no

 

2007 LGT, 132k, stage 2, clean car with no real issues. $5k - This one :)

 

2005 LGT, 150k on the body and 12k on the engine rebuild, stage 2, big brake kit, $5k

 

Just so you know you will be putting some money into these turbo subies. These don't have head gasket issues like the 2.5i did. I always tell people to get the car and drive it for 8 months before you do anything so you know what to expect. have a REAL subie shop give I a once over. Do all fluids and maintenance and NEVER listen to the person selling you the car on what they did unless they have all records. I would give 4k tops for that 07 LGT. Also get a new tune not that OTS stage stuff.

 

Remember to really have a good subie buddy or someone that knows these go with you to look at it.

 

The comment about the 2.5i having the head gasket issues and the GT turbo motor not having the issue doesn’t make since to me. The 2.5i would have a slightly higher compression ratio but the turbo motor would see higher internal pressures and force due to the boost pressure added and the higher forces from the compression and power stroke due to making a larger more powerful explosion in the chamber. Could you please explain?

 

Also, why do you say “hell no” to the spec b? I have seen this car and seen the alignment sheets from the week before I looked at it showing that they made only sight camber adjustments and toe adjustments on the front end. Everything in the rear was square and where it was supposed to be. The shop that did the repair cut off the right side horn and replaced it by reselling it in.

 

Why would you pick the 07 over the 05s? What are the major differences that would lead you to this suggestion?

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buy the one with the best compression/leak down and oil analysis test results along with a turbo shaft play test.

 

This is really hard to do when buying from a private seller. I would not let someone test all that out. Hell the dealer I get the hookup and know most of the people would tell me know lol. Just know you will put money into these cars with age and miles. there is a reason why we legacy owners buy them.

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The first 05 is a solid no, the last 05 could work IF the engine was replaced responsibly and you really want a cheap BL LGT and dont mind the styling (05-07 vs 08-09). The Spec.B could be nice if the price came down and its insurable the 07 is the best on paper option.

 

But go look and touch and drive and smell the one you really want, yes SMELL :) LGT when running fine, is the best car you'll ever know, but when all those seals and gaskets and hoses start rotting and leaking, one-by-one you can easily rack up hundreds in repairs and diagnosis fees.

 

Take a Subaru Savvy person with you :)

 

Also consider taking that $5k-$7K and buying an updated Subaru if you don't mind the styling.

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The comment about the 2.5i having the head gasket issues and the GT turbo motor not having the issue doesn’t make since to me. The 2.5i would have a slightly higher compression ratio but the turbo motor would see higher internal pressures and force due to the boost pressure added and the higher forces from the compression and power stroke due to making a larger more powerful explosion in the chamber. Could you please explain?

 

The 2.5i's composite head gasket eventually leaks, its failure not due to compression (ie blown head gasket). The Turbo use a MLS headgasket which usually doesn't leak. In Subaru updated EJ25 2.5i head gasket to MLS gasket.

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This is really hard to do when buying from a private seller. I would not let someone test all that out. Hell the dealer I get the hookup and know most of the people would tell me know lol. Just know you will put money into these cars with age and miles. there is a reason why we legacy owners buy them.

 

I would ask and allow for compression test and look signs of a new turbo (usually that is a sign to run away) The turbo inspection I would asap upon purchase.

 

If I was a seller, I wouldn't let a potential buyer start pulling my engine apart. I never thought about getting a pre-purchase oil sample, but I would allow that if the buyer want to pay for an oil change.

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You definitely want to do you due diligence on those cars, they are all off at the mileage where a turbo/engine failure could happen. The last 2005 sounds intriguing, but I would check it out. Over the years, I have seen a lot of modified vehicle with poor assembly and tunes, so my skepticism is high.
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As an addition, I don't know where you got the 5mt being bulletproof, it isn't. The spec b 6mt is basically the STI 6mt without DCCD so that one is pretty much bulletproof but that may be the only thing on that car worth a premium price.

 

You should seriously consider the price of transmission upgrade into the cost of ownership especially if you want to go above stock power and not worry about damage.

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OP, I f your still around, I would go for the Spec B, the 6mt is SO MUCH better then the 5mt.

 

Get the car off the stock tune ASAP. Save up money for a new turbo or have this one rebuilt by JmP6889928 soon.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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1. run car past insurance agent for 2 reasons

a. quote

b. they can tell you if the car is salvage or not

 

2. drive the car a fair distance, I did 30 miles last car i test drove. this will allow for the car to reach operating temp and more time for issues to show up when warm. your test drive should include side streets, main streets, and a freeway.

 

 

2. If you drive the car and like it, take care for a detailed inspection. If owner balks, run.

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