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Split fitting at oil pressure switch

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'09 2.5i (EJ253) SE 5MT (TY758). Whilst chasing a P0026 code yesterday, unaware those switches are only supposed to be threaded in a few turns, I split the fitting on the RH cylinder head. Now oil shoots everywhere.


I've dropped over $3000 on this vehicle in the last three months, $2400 of which has been for random issues in the past three weeks. I live in NoVA and don't have a place to work in it.


Currently it's sitting at a shop near Lynchburg VA to see what can be done. Advice welcomed.82a08ad4eaab453a2d81b739b04a9e56.jpg


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Weld the split, clean up threads (BSPT if I recall correctly?) and go on your way. Looks like you're pretty lucky in that the crack didn't propagate further into the passage. Plug the hole below the threads if you try to clean them up - I'd find something that fits into teh galley that can be retrieved easily.
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I know you can use 1/8"NPT fitting in those small threads on a Honda block. That was over 10 years ago. I hope now most shops now can get the right BSPT.


Hopefully that repair shop can weld Aluminum. After that 3 to 4 wraps of teflon pipe tape on the fitting threads should be able to seal that.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.


Engine Build - Click Here

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Two part aluminum weld epoxy. I've had to use it on a timing case cover of a f-150 after catastrophic tensioner failure. The bearing came apart and ate a hole in the cover, causing it to hemorrhage oil. 30 minutes vs. 8+ hours of labor to replace the timing cover.
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  • 1 month later...



#31 rod


easier than welding as you don't melt the base metal.


much stronger than epoxy.


I've never been a fan of epoxy repairs, unless your are using a Novolac chemistry... even then, there are so many variants and fillers. The common BPA based epoxies don't tend to take heat or chemical exposure well.

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