P0011 and P0021 codes.

[Eric-05lgt]

I just bought my first Subaru. It's an 05 legacy gt. I got what I thought is a decent price because it had a speed sensor code and a cam position code. I've replaced both solenoids and put fresh oil in it but still have the codes P0011/P0021 when I use the code reader. The check engine light is on as well as abs. I assume the abs is for the speed sensor. If anyone has any idea what my next move should be please let me know. Any advice at all is appreciated.

[Max Capacity]

Those two codes are known as the death code for the turbo.

 

I'm one of the very few lucky one's when I got the P0011/P0021 while drive on the highway on the way home from work. My turbo lasted another 1000 miles before the whine became a whistle.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/142-000-miles-oem-turbo-168561.html

 

My trusted mechanic pulled the banjo filter and changed the oil.

 

Stop running the engine until you have pulled the down pipe and checked for shaft play.

[Tehnation]

Getting both p0011 and p0021 seems odd. Something seems up with your oil circulation or timing.

 

If this were me I would inspect the turbo first and check for shaft play. If the turbo is fine, I would then check your timing belt, you might have jumped some teeth(which I think is the real issue, when did you last change your timing belt?)

 

If it wasn't the timing I would pull and inspect the banjo bolt filter on the turbo side first because its easier to get to, if its gummed up, I would then inspect the other banjo bolt, which is a bigger pita. If that one is gummed up then thats probably your issue.

 

If they look fine I would drop the oil pan and make sure the oil pickup is intact and the welds are good. If the oil pickup is fine, I would then purchase a single ocv( I would buy 2 just cause, but if money is an issue, then one is all you need for diagnosing), change one and see if one of the codes goes away.

 

That would be my process to diagnose without spending money on new parts. Ultimately you want to inspect everything else before dropping 100's on new ocv's.

[onlylegacys]

I just recently got the poo 21 code and shortly after my turbo was chewing on marbles.

[Eric-05lgt]

I replaced both ocv with beckney-something (sorry I cant remember the name). I looked everything over again and one prong was bent on the passenger side actuator. I bent it back so it actually clipped into the plug. I feared it was an oil issue so I changed it and cracked the lines open at both actuators and the turbo banjos and oil gushed out. When I changed the oil there was no metal or debris. It was just dark and loose. There were also no small metal filters. Since my post the car smokes for about 2 minutes when cold then after that it doesn't smoke all day. Its blueish so I'm assuming its oil. The turbo doesnt make any odd noises. Maybe it's just turbo seals? I would think that would be continuous smoke even after it warms up. I also noticed that when it's cold it idles to about 1500 rpms and very slowly drops over time. It still has the same problem of almost dying after it idles down off a rev. Thanks for the info so far. Edited October 5, 2019 by Eric-05lgt

[Tehnation]

the banjo bolt on the passenger side is on the back of the block, and the driver side is on the front of the block. I don't think you checked the right banjo bolts

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

 

did you drop the downpipe and inspect the turbo for shaft play?

 

The blue smoke means you probably have a blown ring/ringland or valve issues. Either way that block will eventually shit the bed.

 

You never replace the ocv's with aftermarket, you have to go oem or run the risk of issues. did you have the code before changing the ocvs?

 

Smoke where? from the engine bay or lots of smoke coming out the exhaust? Are you burning oil or leaking oil?

 

I would start saving up for #ynansb!

[Eric-05lgt]

The oil is burning out of the exhaust. I have noticed it use too much. Unfortunately it rained all day and my other project takes my garage space (first world problems) so I haven't had the chance to drop the down pipe but I plan on it today when I replace the uppipe. I noticed those but they're slightly harder to get to. How much oil would be a normal amount to get to everything? A lot came out when I opened the lines at the turbo and housings. I really hope it's not that deep of an engine issue. As for the OCVs that was something I wasnt aware of. What problems does it cause?

[Max Capacity]

If this is your first time removing the down pipe, plan on most of a day. Expect rusty bolts and nuts that don't want to come off at the Turbo.

 

If your doing a catless up pipe, the DP should be swapped out for a 3" with a cat and then the car should be tuned.

 

Cobb AP is what most of us do, stage 2 is good for the time being, but for the best, your car should be custom tuned by one of the few recommended Tuners.

 

Use anti-seize compound on all threads, it will make things easier next time.

[Tehnation]

you should probably do a compression test!!! that engine doesn't seem like its healthy, blue smoke is a bad sign....u shouldn't waste your money on a busted engine, because its gonna get expensive real quick!

[gkinslow]

Sounds like you used the Beck Arnley OCV.

 

Several members have had bad aftermarket OCV out of the box.

 

That is one of the items we recommend using OEM only.