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2009 Subaru Outback 3.0R Timing Chain Rattle


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Here the tensioner is removed

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Now the guides (upper and lower). Note the chain hangs way lower than you’d think it would.

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Do the same treatment to the other side then tackle the water pump. Mine was filthy but that middle portion is open to the atmosphere by a hole in the bottom of the block. I suspect they air gapped it in case one of the seals leaks so no oil/coolant would mix.

 

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I had to use the 12 mm bolts to get it out

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I coated the inner seal in coolant but note sure if you have to. It went in snug.

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New pump in

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I went full stupid and bought new idler sprockets too. Again, I was just sitting with the parts guy pointing at stuff on the parts diagrams since if I didn’t use the credit given to me then I would lose it.

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New double and single sprockets

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Right side chain on

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Match up the crank pulley dot to the gold link

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Match up the blue link to the driver side intake cam

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Again blue link to dot for driver side exhaust cam

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Note there is no dot on the idler sprockets so the blue link doesn’t matter on this portion. It only matters when the passenger chain goes on and that both blue links have to be on the same tooth.

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The manual says to get new bolts for these side guides. I suspect it’s only because of the thread lock on them.

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If you look closely the guide is starting to form a groove. The tensioner might have enough leeway that it shouldn’t matter but I still replaced mine.

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Lower driver side guide

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Pivot pin which isn’t actually bolted in. It just kind of floats there although the front cover probably secures it.

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In my case the new guides were black and not that brown colour.

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Driver side done other than the grenade pin

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The passenger side chain is on and just make sure the blue links are on the same tooth

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Passenger intake cam

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Passenger exhaust cam. Notice that the chain isn’t seated fully into the teeth. I actually didn’t notice this at first and when I pulled the pin on the tensioner I saw the cam “spin” a few degrees. Perhaps this was the cause of my knocking from before???

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Passenger upper guide (long boi)

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New bolt. It’s the one where the outside cover bolts into

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Overall everything appeared to be in good condition but the guides were all worn out (even moreso on the passenger side).

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Upper guide

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New “special” bolts again

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The center guide was the one that looked the worst to me. It showed signs where the chain was “jumping” around. Notice the various angles it shows

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Bolt it in with the new special bolts and measure the clearance

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Make sure to pet your helper and then pull the pins!

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The old bolts

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The old parts

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Previously mentioned exhaust cam now with a correctly seated

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Basically you’re now done. Bolt everything back together. I kept going with some other routine maintenance stuff.

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Driver side front is shown on the bottom left

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Valve cover gaskets

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Some new bolts since I broke others. I can’t believe how badly these stupid 10 mm bolts were stuck in there.

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New spark tubes. I deviated from OEM on this one but I’m perfectly fine with Denso

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I cleaned out the throttle body while the airbox was out. Ignore the typo on the can (it should say Subaru).

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Front face final touch up and new bolts. It turns out I had all of them which was nice

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Notice the flange mating surface is nice and clean

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Since the sealant dries and it’s a large piece I had my wife handing me the bolts as I put them on. There are only 3 sizes (plus one that has a washer – see the foreground). I just yelled “30”…then tightened it up. Then I yelled “45”….and tightened it up. Repeat until all million bolts are in. They are torqued to a super low spec.

 

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If you’re curious how far your dipstick dips. I know I was

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Sealant applied. Don’t forget the middle holes

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New crank pulley seal

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I seriously doubt these straps were doing anything anymore

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New belt which I later had to take off. Turns out my tensioner had failed even though it was replaced 70k kms ago.

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And that’s basically it. Fill it with coolant. Fill it with oil and start cranking the engine.

 

In this first video I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it 3 times to build oil pressure and to lubricate the chain.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Xl15Bz86moM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

In this second video is the actual first of the car. 2 weekends worth of work and sweet success!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SRTZsPc60zU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

 

Notice in the video above that the valve tick is all but gone! I’m really happy I didn’t re-shim them. Then I noticed that the accessory belt tensioner shit the bed. Notice it jiggling when the AC loads and unloads it. Dang it…..this set me back a weekend since I had to wait for parts to come in (I wanted OEM).

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4fp9C_FvVfI" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XJiBa-YJdPg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Oh well, what can ya do. Onto the brakes which were the actual problem!

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And that’s basically it. Fill it with coolant. Fill it with oil and start cranking the engine.

 

In this first video I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it 3 times to build oil pressure and to lubricate the chain.

 

In this second video is the actual first of the car. 2 weekends worth of work and sweet success!

 

Notice in the video above that the valve tick is all but gone! I’m really happy I didn’t re-shim them. Then I noticed that the accessory belt tensioner shit the bed. Notice it jiggling when the AC loads and unloads it. Dang it…..this set me back a weekend since I had to wait for parts to come in (I wanted OEM).

 

 

Oh well, what can ya do. Onto the brakes which were the actual problem!

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Before starting any dirty work we polished up the headlights since they were hazy. It turned out nice.

 

1000 grit (not the potatoes)

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3000 grit

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Polishing paste

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Final coating

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Note the driver side IS NOT dirty. I actually just cleaned it in the picture. It’s just the polishing difference

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