How to install Techna-Fit Stainless Steel Brake Lines

[hal9e3]

Well, I've got a full set of 10-17mm flare nut wrenches so I should be GTG.

[iamboon]

next mod

[jerami1981]

ok, so i have pretty much destroyed the f'n flare nut or whatever it is on the front hard lines..still havent gotten it to break free even..lets say i do manage to get it to break free..is there anyway to replace it with either another flare nut or a regular nut?

 

And i guess just as important, how do i get the damn thing off, used the flare wrench till it started slipping, couldnt get a hammer on it to do hard bursts so i just did my best, now its slipping and i have old pops out there using vice grips, but i have yet to hear him scream a loud hoo yaa, so i am guessing hes still cracking at it. Any sure fire methods?

[GTBoxer]

I also need to know the what if below...I'm struggling with that damn flare nut. It is basically round now...what happens when it comes off? Try to use it or is there a way to get a new one without getting a whole new hard line?

 

Thx!

 

ok, so i have pretty much destroyed the f'n flare nut or whatever it is on the front hard lines..still havent gotten it to break free even..lets say i do manage to get it to break free..is there anyway to replace it with either another flare nut or a regular nut?

 

And i guess just as important, how do i get the damn thing off, used the flare wrench till it started slipping, couldnt get a hammer on it to do hard bursts so i just did my best, now its slipping and i have old pops out there using vice grips, but i have yet to hear him scream a loud hoo yaa, so i am guessing hes still cracking at it. Any sure fire methods?

[BlackHole]

Great write-up, very helpful. Couple of comments:

 

The supplied E-clips did not work for me at all - they fit very poorly and did not secure the lines. I reused the stock retaining clips which fit much better.

 

I'm not sure if the brake line fittings are metric or SAE - for my set of tools the metric fit better than the SAE (14mm vs. 9/16" & 17mm vs. 11/16"). That may just be tool tolerance, YMMV.

 

Steps #11&12: After connecting the brake line to the chassis hard line slide the retaining clip back onto the chassis bracket. Tighten the chassis hard line with the flare nut wrench. If necessary, hold the brake line fitting using the 11/16" (17mm) wrench. I found it much easier to properly seat the brake line in the bracket this way.

 

Fastening the banjo bolts to the caliper: if there is even a little bit of an angle between the brake lines and the caliper, installing the banjo bolt can be a pain. Removing one bolt from the caliper mount to allow the caliper to rotate (like changing brake pads) or removing the caliper entirely can make life much easier and quicker.

[ShadowImg]

Not a job for the feint of heart! Those stupid hard line flare nuts can be nearly impossible to break free. We did this one yesterday, and it took pretty much the whole day. A very high quality/strong pair of vice grips are a must as you will guaranteed round/slip the flare wrench on almost all of them and need to use vice grips to break them loose instead.

 

Did anyone else have trouble with the retaining clips on the rear hardline couplers? The second clip/bracket seems impossible to connect.

 

What did everyone else do about their mangled flare nuts? I'm guessing fixing it requires replacing the hardline, did anyone go that far?

(Welcome back from the dead, stainless brake lines thread)

[VXCL]

i too had to use vice grips to get the lines off. flare wrench was a joke. going to just go that way when i do the rears. i also used the oem clips and caliper banjo bolts. i did have to slightly bend the one front hardline a degree or two to get the oem clip on.

[Xenonk]

I just used pliers and mallet to get the clips on and off.. they are suppose to be tight (I should show you what happens if they weren't, long story short, the clip was lost and the line was rubbing to the point where it wore a tear in the line, bad thing).

 

As for the flare nut wrenches, it does take some time to get a hold of it, but for the most part, you just have to make sure you isolate the nut and secure the other end of the line so that it doesn't twist as you twist the nut. I would use vice grips as a last resort simply that you dont want to be too tight where you crush the hard line.

[ShadowImg]

As for breaking the flare nuts loose, I think it's actually a good idea to do it prior to removing the clip if possible. The clip adds a lot more stability to the joint, so you don't get as much twisting on it as you go to break it free. Not a big deal in the front where you have plenty of room to work, but in the rears where there's just no room at all for the wrenches, very helpful.

 

The clips I'm not sure on. The fronts are easy, the "first" clip in the rear is reasonably easy, the "last" clip in the rear is reasonably easy. The middle clip in the rear seems impossible. It doesn't seem like the rear line is going to go anywhere without the middle clip, but it can't be good to have it moving around inside that bracket. The problem really seems like it's the hardline. As soon as it was removed, the hard line moved "in" on the bracket where it clips, and to get it moved enough to where the clip would work you have to bend the hard line a good inch or so back, but obviously not in a straight line.

[scooby600]

I also am having a really hard time getting the flare nuts loose. My front passenger side is pretty much rounded out and both my rears are pretty much stuck. My driver side front went really smoothly. I sprayed it with pb blaster and I'm just letting it sit overnight and hopefully it'll loosen up a little. If not, I am just going to bleed the system and take it somewhere. This was such a pain.

[abakja1]

My cuzn has these little plumber wrenches. I think that Sure-grips or those lock pliers would work..but the little plumber wrenches worked great cause of the bite and smaller size in comparison to the lock pliers..

[caramall2]

Any comments on what would be the "downside" to "flip" the rear caliper banjo connection over so that it gives the line about an extra inch or so of play (solid "L" tube would point towards the front instead of the rear...opposite of the photo)? It wouldn't rest in the "slot" anymore...one downside.

 

With rear BBKs, it just really tight when you try and take off the rear calipers to swap out pads at a track day, etc.

 

Ideally I'd just get a line with an extra 1" of length. Will have to see if the aftermarket ones are any longer. Even 1/2" would probably help.

[LittleBlueGT]

I also found it very very tight.

[toppy]

So, I'm thinking of giving up. Vise grips did not work for me and I don't want to completely round out the flare nut. Does anyone know a sure fire way to undo the flare nuts? Will the dealer install the lines for me or do I have to go to a special brake shop since these are aftermarket lines? Anyone interested an a set of lines for a 2005 Outback?

[Claw]

Are you supposed to hold the nut with the flare wrench and turn the softline coupling, or hold the softline and turn the nut?

 

Confused.. I've rounded off the flare nut already..

[Shaunb62]

http://legacygt.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1314&pictureid=6796

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1314

 

Great Write UP! The Flare Nut Wrenches ARE ESSENTIAL to getting this done right. Got a full set from 9mm - 17mm @ Sears for $40.

 

Did this upgrade along with STi Brembo/DBA Street Rotors!

[mlloydlgt]

Just did this walk-thru today. I thought it went very well.

 

I realized immediately that the flare-nut and 10mm solution wouldn't work so I just skipped that rigamarole and went to two vice grips right away. It chewed up the 10mm hard-line nuts a bit but nothing terrible (although enough that a 10mm wrench no longer fits easily over it).

 

My suggestions are as follows. I figured out on the rears the best way to proceed in the tight space was to:

(1) loosen the ABS speed-sensor heat shield so it could be moved around a small amount to allow the next steps to work. Next,

(2) undo the hard-line nearer the caliper, then

(3) undo the second flex line at the point furthest from the piston.

(4) Now the entire hard-line and second flex-line combination can be pulled through the retaining slot

(5) The two can now be separated whilst off of the car. This made it much easier to get to because there is no space to manipulate a wrench in those confines.

(6) Install the new line onto the old hard line (but do not tighten all the way!)

(7) Re-thread it back in through the retaining mount.

(8) Replace the flex line on the caliper, then

(8) Connect the hard line to the new flex line on the caliper side and then tighten up all the way the other hard/flex combo.

 

(10) For 1-man bleeding when the job is done this is the EASIEST way to go about it: use a regular bleed hose a receiving jar, but install a simple $1.95 fish-tank one-way check-valve in-line. http://www.aquacave.com/GetImage.ashx?Path=~%2FAssets%2FProductImages%2FPPCV1.jpg(http://www.aquacave.com/Air-Check-Valve-by-TOM-Aquarium-Products-P2208.aspx?gclid=CPSE_7CElrYCFeeDQgod9wwADQ). It's a check valve for a fish tank bubber air line but works perfect and makes it possible to bleed with one person and beats a fancy vacuum system. (Just be sure to bleed with the ign on). A little extra line length also helps you see if there is still air in the clear tubing and let you know when the lines run solid fluid without a second set of eyes. Every 8 full pedal pumps, top off the reservoir so you don't suck air in. Simple. Cheap. Effective.

 

The whole job took about 3.5 hours (and most of it was in "learning" on the left side before the right side, which went much faster).

[Silinc3r]

So this was my 3rd time doing a Subaru and you would think I would be flawless at it by now.

1st off make sure you have everything you need to get the job done. Make sure you read these post so you can not make the same mistakes unless you really want to learn the hard way.

2nd know when to use force and when to not

3rd before you do anything major, get the car on jacks and have the wheels off. Then spray your bolts of PB Blaster, Krilo, or any other liquid wrench and let it sit for several hours. Change your spark plugs or something.

 

Flare nut wrenches are a must, do not deviate away from this and think you'll be fine. Even if you cut a space in your box wrench you will only be screwing yourself.

When you are trying to undo the hardline make sure you have your flare wrench on and use a vice grip for the flex line and try and keep the hardline from rotating. It might not feel like it will work but if you have the vice grip on there tight enough and use some force it will come undone. Also make sure you are going the right way! When reconnecting the hard line with the flex line make sure that it is tight. go till it stops move to the next and then come back again and tighten it. Remember these are your brakes you are dealing with.

 

I spent a total of about 6 hours doing this job beacuase of some laziness, some tool problems, and just stupid shit. Once you think you have one corner completed make sure you tightened it down. And once you have all corners done , go back and make sure they are all tightened.

 

If you atleast do the big 3: you should not have a problem

A type of liquid wrench

10 mm Flare Nut Wrench

Vice grips

 

I happened to do this job as I was doing all new rotors, pads, and a wheel bearing. It is almost not worth the headache and risk if you just want to buy them seperatly. This car is in the south with now rust.

 

And the hard lines cost 150 from Subaru but you have to buy all four corners. you can not split it up.

[mlloydlgt]

And just today this came via email from the local dealership. I wonder what part it is and where.

 

"I’m writing to let you know that your Subaru has an open recall. The recall code is WQG43, 05-09 LEGACY & OUTBACK BRAKE PIPE CORROSION. Subaru dealers are currently making repairs, free of charge. We would love the opportunity to handle this issue for you. Please just give us a call Monday-Friday form 7:00am to 6:00pm we will get the matter resolved.

 

Thank you for your time"

[bucko3the7man]

And just today this came via email from the local dealership. I wonder what part it is and where.

 

"I’m writing to let you know that your Subaru has an open recall. The recall code is WQG43, 05-09 LEGACY & OUTBACK BRAKE PIPE CORROSION. Subaru dealers are currently making repairs, free of charge. We would love the opportunity to handle this issue for you. Please just give us a call Monday-Friday form 7:00am to 6:00pm we will get the matter resolved.

 

Thank you for your time"

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204853