abakja1 Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 This is more frustrating than doing an uppipe/downpipe install... I started at 330pm thinking I could get the lines on and bleed the brakes by the early evening,...I got the passenger front done without problems,.. Then I started on the front driver side,..Repeated process until my flare wrench slipped on the nut,..so I tried to loosen again,..starting to round off,...hit it with PB blast,...tried with flare again,..now definitely its rounding out,..so I got the old vise grips..then crescent wrench,..then awe shoots, better leave it on cause the nut is almost completely gone,..my cuzn will hopefully get it off with a mini-plummers wrench tomorrow morning,..I got the passanger rear done too but with some resistance in "cracking" the stock line to caliper hose loose,.. So what I got in store for me tomorrow is the driver rear and hopefully be able to get the driver front off,..If the mini-sized plummers wrench doesnt work,..I will be running 3 Technafit lines and 1 oem till I can find a solution to get it fixed?? Does Subaru sell a pre-bent brake line to the driver side from master cylinder?? Sheesh,..so difficult only cause this install was fighting me all the way trying to crack loose the monkey-torque or frozen joint,... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 more force = rounding. I found a tap tap from a small sledge on the wrench opens those right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derffred Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 You may wanna edit your recommendation on any DOT 5 brake fluid before someone screws their car up. yea.. DOT 5 is silicone based.. it will F up your brake system and DOT 3 and 4 are Glycol based.. i believe the OEM fluid is DOT 3.. the higher the DOT rating, the higher the temperature rating is.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakja1 Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 more force = rounding. I found a tap tap from a small sledge on the wrench opens those right up. Yes,..the point right after I had stripped the driver side front and started on the 3rd side (passenger rear), I took the "shock" or quick twist style of trying to break the connection loose,...Even the rear gave me some trouble on the joint in the middle between the caliper and the front line. Funny,..right now Hawaii has been in Flash flood warning weather for the past 2 weeks now,..yesterday has been sunny,..today its raining pretty hard,...gotta do the lines in my garage a little wet and cold today,... ahh,...not my day(s) I guess,... Hope the Gruppe-S hot coated V2s when it comes in later this week wont give me any troubles even though it should be a straight forward install,... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakja1 Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 luckily everything else finished up ok,...I wish the rear calipers still had a little extra slack though,.. Still have to do the driver front,..my cuzn got called into work due to a flood at one of the power plants (State worker/mechanic),.. Will have to go to Sears to see if they have those mini-plumber's wrenches,.. BTW,.what is the concensus on bleeding Pass. Front, Driver's Rear, Pass. Rear, Driver's front??? thanks Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 26, 2006 Author Share Posted March 26, 2006 Sheesh,..so difficult only cause this install was fighting me all the way trying to crack loose the monkey-torque or frozen joint,... yea, frozen brake lines are super fustrating, I have seen some that actually heat up the connection (which no one should do with flammable liquids) and just use some really nice set of vice grips and destroy the stock rubber line. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakja1 Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Ta da!! Got it done,..Used vise grips to get it off,...Im relieved,.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Well, I finished my brake line job off tonight. I started the job a couple of weeks ago but the front drivers side bolt began to round off, even though I was using a flare nut wrench. I ended up going to Sears and getting a pair of big ass vise grips to break it loose. If I was to do the job from the begining I would have used PB Blaster on all bolts just to be safe. My car only has 5K miles, but it would have helped. 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Got mine in the mail tyesterday and noticed something Looking at the lines it is clear some have smaller/bigger orifices where they attach to the hard line. I'm imagining that this is to preserve brake balance on the different total length lines between right and left. Will it be clear to me when I pull the stock lines off which size orifice line to put on? i.e: One front brake line has a bigger hole in it then the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 it's very intuitive.. the line with the plastic sliding shock holder is the front line.. the 2 shorter ones are for the rear.. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Nope, I know which lines go where. But, I've attahed a pic of the two front lines, and the two first rear lines. One of each has a bigger "grommet" on the inside of the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 so what's your question again? Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Do the lines with the bigger I.D. grommet go on the left or right side of the car? I'm guessing they are built this way for a reason. If I had to guess, I'd say the bigger I.D. lines go on the right side of the car since they are farther from the master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 what about the opposite end of that same line? it should be a female to male connection... it shouldn't matter because it's all fluids that pass through it.. the lines will be filled. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Well, the front lines can't be turned around because the banjo fitment is on the other end. The rears have the same (small) size grommet on the other end. The final rear lines also have the small size on them. Nobody seems to know whay they are made this way. I've been waitng for two days to hear back from Ravspec. If I can't get an answer, I'm going to return them. No offense Keefe, but "it shouldn't matter" when it comes to a braking system doesn't make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 29, 2006 Author Share Posted April 29, 2006 I'll go home and see if I can dig up my stock lines for you to do a small comparison.. RavSpec would end up calling Techna-Fit anyways to find out why they are made this way. I can understand your concern.. but let's just put it in this sense: What if I overlooked this issue on my own car and I have my lines installed backwards? I would have made a note already by now about how odd the car feels under braking (especially since I have tracked my car about 2 weekend full and had probably have much more grave concerns than you do of me blasting 120+ mph into a braking zone). There's also a chance I installed it correctly as well (if there happens to be a directional flow to them or placement of each line to each corner) but there's a possibly that your application that it can be installed "incorrectly". I'll see if I can clear this up for you by this weekend if there is a left-right application to installing them. But to my experience, it shouldn't change your brake bias or anything that would change the initial brake feel compared to repeated pumping. In your other thread, I posted up how the brake distribution works on the GT (or many other modern day Subarus and other cars for that matter). Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 Thanks Keefe! This is cross posted I know, but I wanted to get a few more people in on this discussion. Like I said in the other post. I'm in the process of contacting Techna-Fit, we will see what the deal is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 29, 2006 Author Share Posted April 29, 2006 Well, the front lines can't be turned around because the banjo fitment is on the other end. The rears have the same (small) size grommet on the other end. The final rear lines also have the small size on them. Nobody seems to know whay they are made this way. I've been waitng for two days to hear back from Ravspec. If I can't get an answer, I'm going to return them. No offense Keefe, but "it shouldn't matter" when it comes to a braking system doesn't make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. I didnt call techna-fit, but I did go over their catalog: http://www.techna-fit.com/images/Crimpct.pdf It could very well be that there is a slight difference in the Subaru Female crimp end (#SU700-03-31S) and and a Toyota Female crimp end (#S760-03-31S, #S761-03-31S, S762-03-31S (SUPRA), #TY159-15-31S) which all have 10mm x 1.0 connection. When in doubt, you can also call up Techna-fit directly to find out why the female ends are different. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 I would call, but they closed at 5 today. Guess there will be no brake line install this weekend. Yeah, I looked through the catalog too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 Keefe, I never should have doubted you. But I had to check into as best I can. Techn-Fit got back to me and said everything is cool. Though I didn't get a reason for why they made the change mid-run. I posted their response in the other thread I started. Thanks again! Lines go on per your instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 cool deal.. it could very well be that they used some toyota female ends in the mid run? I dunno, but like I said in my other post, there's plenty of other female ends that they could have used that worked just fine with Subarus as well, afterall, most of this stuff are standardized parts. I know I am just human as everyone else when it comes to this stuff and I know I have a lot of things to deal with to get my facts straight, if anyone the boards see that i put up a bad post, just let me know so I can correct myself in the process.. there's enough wrong or incorrect information floating around, i just dont want to contribute to that part of it. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuxtaGT Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Thanks again Keefe! Instructions are spot on. Car feels good with the new lines in! Don't know if you've tried this, but I ended up clamping the flare nut wrench in place over the fitting with a vice-grip. Made it very easy to break the lines loose, and not damage the fitting as a vice-grip alone might do. I found that my wrench was still slipping/bending, and starting to cause rounding, thats why I tried it with the VG to hold it down. Works great, especially since you have to apply some serious torque on those things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted May 1, 2006 Author Share Posted May 1, 2006 ^that's another way of doing it. The problem is that the couplings are on there tight enough that it wasnt designed to be backing out when you drive Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hal9e3 Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 Gonna use this W/T to install my Goodridges this weekend. Probably won't hurt to use the Subaru manual either, especially WRT bleeding order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted August 29, 2006 Author Share Posted August 29, 2006 I personally ignored the bleeding order (I did it the old school way starting with the caliper furtheest away from the master cylinder), although it would save you on fluid, but however you look at it, the fluid will all eventually come out. Just make note that Techna-fit lines used Standard tools, I don't recall what Goodridge lines used for sizes (havent seen a set since my WRX days). Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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