Mr-C Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Hey gang, Something weird has happened after trying to do a few Launch control attempts friday night for the 1st time. Must admit I had a hard time taking off with Launch Control: - 1st pull was set at 4000rpm, almost stalled as I pretty much "dumped" the clutch - 2nd pull was set at 4200rpm, tried taking off by slipping the clutch and still didn't go very well....smell of burnt clutch soon after. - 3rd pull was set at about 5000rpm and same results as previous, so I pretty much gave up. I drove slowly back home to let things cool (5-10min), smell of clutch in the car still present and shifting gears was a little "rough" but nothing seemed abnormal....to me anyway. Car sat in the driveway until yesterday, needed to go out so I started the car remotely and let it idle couple minutes. Got in the car to find out it will not go into gear while running....however when I turned the car off it does go into each gear. So I tried starting the car while in gear and the car wants to take off as if the clutch won't disengage and the pedal is to the floor. Clutch fluid is good, fork seems to move when pushing the pedal. I Never experienced this before, wondering what the issue could be....any ideas, is it possible the TOB is seized? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Open her up to see, the smell of a burning clutch is never what you want. Not trying to be captain obvious here I'd never do clutch dumps at that rpm without having the car fully prepped for it first. 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 (edited) Next time, I would try a higher rpm, may be something around 5800-6200rpm. Pull up the e-brake, let the clutch out until you feel the car begin to work against the brake. You have now, preloaded the driveline. When you release the launch control and the clutch the shock to the driveline will be much less. I have not used launch control in the Cobb AP, but have seen it used with a button in race cars launching at the drag strip. My son would launch the civic at 6800rpm with slicks. Edited May 27, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 Sounds like the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel. Might need to just replace the clutch and machine the flywheel at this point. Maybe a good opportunity for an upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 ^that or he killed the throw out bearing or another part of the clutch release mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 I never dump the clutch if I want to launch a car. I slip the clutch but I quickly engage the clutch once it grabs. I found the AP launch control to be really easy to use compared to feathering the throttle & clutch on the launch and timing WOT to coincide just slightly after I am engaging the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr-C Posted May 28, 2019 Author Share Posted May 28, 2019 (edited) Thanks gang, I'm also leaning towards the clutch being stuck to the flywheel....My clutch was changed 4-5 yrs ago (maybe more), put a Stage II Bully kit and I have an ACT flywheel, I've always wondered if they we're really compatible or not. At this point no choice to take things apart and see what's going on.....I'm foreseeing a new clutch kit in the up coming expenses. Should I go with an ACT clutch kit to make sure everything is the same company ? I also had the flywheel machined last summer when I swap engines....its a lightweight flywheel, how many times can I have it machined? Thanks, Edited May 28, 2019 by Mr-C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 The machine shop will be able to answer the question about the FW. I'm the only one that enjoys the performance out of my Spec 2+ clutch. I have one of there LWFW with a replaceable friction surface in the shed, all it needs is a new $80.00 insert. It mates to the crank with the T50+ bolts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr-C Posted June 14, 2019 Author Share Posted June 14, 2019 So quick update (in case someone searches in the future) Turns out the person who had performed my engine swap last year ended up putting too much grease when installing the clutch (I have a TSK3 kit). Grease got on the clutch and "cooked" to the pressure plate once the car was parked and cooled down preventing me to engage/disengage. Also turns out my flywheel wasn't good either....possibly badly machined last year or the ACT/Bully is just not a good combination (Always thought the pedal was too low....so this explained a lot). So kind of a "good news" story but definitely an expensive one!!! Waiting on the new flywheel (Exedy LWSM) and refurbished clutch/pressure plate...going back to stock with OEM TOB as well. Fingers crossed the install goes well and I can start enjoying my car again....its been too long!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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