Mr-C

If you changed the fuel pump you may want to check to ensure the o-rings are not damaged or not sitting correctly....chassed a lean issue for a while before having a shop figure it out for me Good luck!

Thanks for the info gang....I found these, looks like they'll work! https://www.ft86motorsports.com/5mm-5x100-hubcentric-wheel-spacers-pair-2013-fr-s-brz-wrx-impreza.html

Hey gang, I need to get me some spacers in order to clear the Brembo's properly...I have Rota wheels and wondering if I need them to be hubcentric or not ? thanks,

Thanks for the info...those links help and inspire confidence!!!

So FML, I waited 3-4 weeks to receive + install new GS rad hoses....old hose was ready to pop, glad I caught it in time! Button up everything, purge the system....hit the brakes as I'm getting ready to back out of the garage and feel the pedal go straight down. Look under the car and see a puddle of brake fluid. Looks like its at the rear splitter, not sure which line yet....looks like this is going to be a bitch of a job! Anyone have any wisdom/advice to share before I start getting into it? Just glad this happened at home and not on the road...someone is looking out for me

Hey, Following up on this....haven't got to it yet myself (will try this weekend time permitting) and wondering if everything is still #1 ? Did you take any pics while doing the install, any recommendations? thanks

I had to change mine last year as the one I had was cracking, shift pattern unstock a bunch of times and was just not a comfortable feeling when driving. I didn't want to spend much but quickly noticed you get for what you pay for....STI one caught my attention for 1 sec until I saw the price also. I ended up going with the GrimmSpeed Stubby....affordable (under $100 CDN with the boot retainer), looks good and sleek (didn't want anything bling), feels good in the hand although it might be slightly too big for my taste (I'm used to a smaller knob in my hand...LMAO!!) and also doesn't get too hot in summer or too cold in winter. They have other styles also you might like

Sorry to hear the bad news....hope you and anyone in the car didn't get hurt.

Hey, Not many Subaru specialist shops in the Montreal region....you can give a call to Swap Shop in Blainville they've been around awhile now and are good guys. I might also have a buddy that can help if you're willing to go to the South Shore....of course you can always go to a Dealer

What he said....if he didn't think there's was an issue, change mechanic! LOL

Sexy !! I imagine you're running a big set up or this is a track car to justify this?

Pretty much everything as above + I think I would recommend a bigger TMIC as the stock one will probably not support the added boost long term and for the price I would also recommend going with an upgraded fuel pump right away....especially if yours is the original with high millage, you want to make sure you have no fuel restrictions. The AEM340 or DW40 are drop in, plug & play and come with a new filter also and will support the mods you are looking for. Be prepared to spend $$$ !!! LOL This is my set up with forged internals....I don't think forged is a must but I got a good deal on it. Dyno gave 365hp/356tq and 282whp at 18psi, it moves!!! EJ257 forged internals and STI crank Stock heads fully refreshed Stock injectors (fully refreshed and tested) & AEM340 pump. TGV Deleted Grimmspeed CAI Grimmspeed 3 port Boost Controller (highly recommended) AVO TMIC VF52 turbo with ported wastegate Bully Stage 4 clutch with Exedy LWFW Catless Up Pipe 3" downpipe with highflow cat > 3" custom mid/y pipe > Prodrive mufflers

Hahahah.....welcome back!!

I have this issue also.....haven't put much time or effort yet in looking into it. It comes and goes and always thought the switch would be the issue. If you get around to resolving this, let me know!

Funny what we can learn years later.....10yrs+ with this car and never heard/saw this "mod" before....i'll also will be looking into this!

I did a little searching yesterday and the 1st thing recommended to check is the fluid level....if its too low it would cause this to happen. In my case everything was changed last year: clutch/pp,fw,both bearings and new fluid. I remember checking the fluid level last year and it seemed over.....does anyone know if too much fluid could also cause the noise? I used Lucas Transmission oil, should I have gone with something else?

Following this as I also have the same issue......at neutral or low rpm I can hear the squeak, as soon as I touch the clutch pedal it goes away. However this is not constant, at times I can drive a whole bunch without hearing anything. At higher rpm I don't hear it....unless its just to high pitch of a noise or other things such as my exhaust is drowning the noise. Its been like that for 1yr now, for the most part everything else seems to be just fine....in reading some previous post some had said it could be the Output or Input shaft? Any other reasons this can happen.....could the slave have anything to do with it?

If your car is clean, minimal rust, well maintained, etc....I would say your listing price is fair in both cases (fixed or not). As they say....there's an Ass for every seat lol. It just might take a while for you to find the right buyer at your price.

Check the lower hose....if its much cooler than its probably the thermostat that is jammed up.

It needs to be disabled in the tune....codes will come back if not .

A rebuilt VF52 cost me $600 some years back, so I imagine similar price for yours. I'm sure if you call some recycling yards or JDM import shops you'll be able to source something for around $300-$400. Doing the job involves removing exhaust bolts, oil/coolant lines, hoses and inlet which are all prone to be seized, rusted or break/tear due to being brittle + new gaskets all around (as best practice)....+ $/hr if you are getting the job done. Just food for thought if you're considering selling, if you don't want to deal with the possible headaches and additional cost. Might as well bite the bullet and make it someone else's problem

I had a lean & af learning issue related to my gas pump.....it was new but turns out the o-rings weren't sitting properly and causing a leak in pressure. If nothing comes out of your vaccum testing and changing the UP gasket, I would look into your gas pressure readings

Hey gang, I'm due to swap out my old suspension....OEM struts with COBB springs. I'm thinking of B8's with H&R springs, if anyone has or had this set up I'd like to get your feedback Others are more than welcome to comment as well

Not knowing your existing set up, things I would put on the need/to be considered list are: - Fuel pump (need for sure) - Aftermarket Intercooler with silicone hose - New turbo inlet (aftermatket would be preferred) - VF52 wastegate will need to be ported - 3 port EBCS (highly recommended) - CAI - DP and catless UP - Headers - Clutch - Make sure brakes are top shape and able to handle the extra power - Towing to the tuner

Nice build! Sounds like you'll have a similar set up to mine....minus the fuel upgrades, I'm stock but with TGV deletes and also UEL headers. As a reference, it puts out 282whp (365hp/356tq) on 91 and boost at 19lbs Are you sure the Stage 1 clutch will hold up?