Nick's '05 SWP Wagon - Project LGT Re-mastered

[jfsn06]

Apply your choice of sealant. Preferably Fujibond or similar. I personally use Toyota's FIPG

[jfsn06]

This is the result. This is honestly all it needs and keeping this far away from the oil passages actually allows it to spread just enough without blocking it after the torquing procedure.

[jfsn06]

This is the result. Good beading outside but no blocked oil passages. You can always verify by doing a light check

[jfsn06]

So I took a look at the wiring today for the powered upper seat release/folding and I was able to figure out how to make it work. I don't know if SOJ used the same colors on all the wiring but mine was Black and Red.

 

I temporarily unpinned the harness on one side on the folding rear seats and extended the wires so I could connect it to an extra battery I had. The wiring is pretty simple: Red is power and Black is ground.

 

Basically, the release motor has constant 12v power. When the ground is connected, the circuit gets completed and allows the release motor to do its thing. What makes the seat fold down are the heavy duty springs on the hinges where the upper seat is bolted down.

 

In terms of wiring the the switch on the cargo panels, the routing will look like this:

 

12v power -> red wire on upper seat harness -> black wire on upper seat harness extended to 1st wire on rear switch on cargo panel -> 2nd wire on rear switch on cargo panel connected to ground or any common ground

 

No relay is needed and the power wire to the release motor just needs to be tapped to a constant 12v+ source so that the function can be used even when the car is off.

 

The switch itself is just a glorified toggle switch so that the ground circuit can be completed. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

 

 

I noticed the same thing. I had to remove one of the vertical “ribs” and some of the padding. Once those are on you’ll notice that USDM floor panels don’t fit. Arnold, aka valleylegacy, also got the rear seat release buttons working on those panels. I have the harness connection but they need a relay to work correctly and wiring ain’t my thing.

Edited February 28, 2019 by jfsn06

[jfsn06]

This week has been slow, so not really much to update. I have the motor pretty much sealed up except the oil pan area. I installed the oil pump yesterday, let the sealant cure and today, I was able to confirm that it picks up oil from the oil pickup. I guess the factory packed the rotors really well. I'm currently waiting on the 08+ WRX oil filter pickup and high flow water-pump with two nipples for the oil exchanger delete. I'll be running an oil cooler setup once the motor is broken in. Once those parts are in, I can prime the motor to make sure that oil gets to the places it needs to. The reason for not sealing the oil pan is i'd like to verify that oil squirts out from the crank journals and rods. Also some more parts came in today: AEM 340lph fuel pump, AEM wideband, Mishimoto oil cooler, Turbosmart BPV, IAG phenolic spacers and 18qt. of Motul break-in oil.

 

On a sidenote, I should be using this time to finish wiring up the Tein EDFC ActivePro since I got the Tein Flex Zs from the sedan installed on the wagon.

 

For those doing an oil exchanger delete and are interested in the part numbers, here they are:

 

Water pump (cast impeller) 2 nipples:2111AA065

Oil Filter pickup:15018AA050

[crisjp3]

If you don't mind me asking where did you get the Middle console with the Sport# knob? I have an 07 and want to replace mine

 

Beautiful build btw. The few threads that I see here on the forums make me feel like there's still hope for mine.

[VOC4L]

Nice find on the rear seats! The red stitching is subtle but sexy

[05MNLGT]

So these went in yesterday:) I'm really curious how the STI rack with solid U-joint will feel compared to the stock one. I also cleaned the engine bay today.

 

doing the sti steering rack is a huge upgrade in driving. not sure if you're doing the cusco steering brace or not. it helps.

[boxkita]

doing the sti steering rack is a huge upgrade in driving. not sure if you're doing the cusco steering brace or not. it helps.

 

The solid sti replacement piece seems like the bigger change, not that a quicker ratio isn't good. The oem piece can briefly lock up during extremely frantic autox flailing.

Edited March 12, 2019 by boxkita

[boxkita]

Don't know if anyone else does this when sealing the front cam caps, but i've found that it helps keep the oil passages from getting clogged from too much sealant. I've done this on 10 motors now and not one has ever leaked.

 

I tape up around the dowel alignment pin. There's a small space next to the dowel to allow just the right amount of sealant without it flowing to the oil passage

 

One of those genius ideas that makes the rest of us say "Doh!". I used a razor blade to clean up the mess I made the first time.

 

I'm thinking a vinyl die cutter could make this pattern pretty easily. Assuming you could get the cling back off and there was no bleed thru. Cause, you know, cutting tape is hard.

[TylerHartman]

Sweet wagon! I did the STI solid linkage on my 2.5i wagon along with WL bushings and it tighten up the on-center steering and gave much more feeling. STI rack would be a dream come true

[Enlight]

Any updates from this member?