jfsn06

Still available?

Sorry to hear about your issues. It’s getting to be really hard to trust shops these days not only about honesty, but also quality of work. On a side note, if you still have issues with you AOS, I would venture to check out the o-rings on the coolant line connections. They are o-ring -AN fittings. It’s possible that the o-rings weren’t lubed when they were tightening them. Also maybe you already know l, but just in case, tighten them snug then turn 1-1 1/2 extra flat.

Yea it's really hard especially with the yellow vs gold. Really wish we had all the cool stuff japan offered.

This week has been slow, so not really much to update. I have the motor pretty much sealed up except the oil pan area. I installed the oil pump yesterday, let the sealant cure and today, I was able to confirm that it picks up oil from the oil pickup. I guess the factory packed the rotors really well. I'm currently waiting on the 08+ WRX oil filter pickup and high flow water-pump with two nipples for the oil exchanger delete. I'll be running an oil cooler setup once the motor is broken in. Once those parts are in, I can prime the motor to make sure that oil gets to the places it needs to. The reason for not sealing the oil pan is i'd like to verify that oil squirts out from the crank journals and rods. Also some more parts came in today: AEM 340lph fuel pump, AEM wideband, Mishimoto oil cooler, Turbosmart BPV, IAG phenolic spacers and 18qt. of Motul break-in oil. On a sidenote, I should be using this time to finish wiring up the Tein EDFC ActivePro since I got the Tein Flex Zs from the sedan installed on the wagon. For those doing an oil exchanger delete and are interested in the part numbers, here they are: Water pump (cast impeller) 2 nipples:2111AA065 Oil Filter pickup:15018AA050

yup they are the purple ones. The black cover is probably throwing off the color. I recently sold the blue ones and somac is correct in that the blue ones are the blue and the teal. I have the purple myself. I had yellow ones too but they're not really that yellow in person so I sold them. These were the color choices for the pre-facelift: SAA3050200HN: Yellow SAA3050200GL: Green/Teal SAA3050200UL: Red SAA3050200TE: Tinted Silver SAA3050200PM: Purple SAA3050200IU: Blue SAA3050200GH: Gold

That is me right now.

This post is for those of you that have the JDM wagon powered folding rear seats and have yet to wire it to the JDM rear cargo switch I don't know how complete everyone's JDM rear seats are but to make this work you will need: -JDM rear folding switch(located on the upper part of the JDM rear cargo side panels -JDM rear seats(or at least the upper portion) which has the release motors -JDM upper rear seat hinges(these hinges have a really beefy spring that force the upper part of the rear seats to fold down when they are unlatched. Without these springs, even if you wire the release motors, the upper seat will not fold. So I took a look at the wiring today for the powered upper seat release/folding and I was able to figure out how to make it work. I don't know if SOJ used the same colors on all the wiring but mine was Black and Red. I temporarily unpinned the harness on one side on the folding rear seats and extended the wires so I could connect it to an extra battery I had. The wiring is pretty simple: Red is power and Black is ground. Basically, the release motor has constant 12v power. When the ground is connected, the circuit gets completed and allows the release motor to do its thing. What makes the seat fold down are the heavy duty springs on the hinges where the upper seat is bolted down. In terms of wiring the the switch on the cargo panels, the routing will look like this: 12v power -> red wire on upper seat harness -> black wire on upper seat harness extended to 1st wire on rear switch on cargo panel -> 2nd wire on rear switch on cargo panel connected to ground or any common ground No relay is needed and the power wire to the release motor just needs to be tapped to a constant 12v+ source so that the function can be used even when the car is off. The switch itself is just a glorified toggle switch so that the ground circuit can be completed. Let me know if you have any questions.

So I took a look at the wiring today for the powered upper seat release/folding and I was able to figure out how to make it work. I don't know if SOJ used the same colors on all the wiring but mine was Black and Red. I temporarily unpinned the harness on one side on the folding rear seats and extended the wires so I could connect it to an extra battery I had. The wiring is pretty simple: Red is power and Black is ground. Basically, the release motor has constant 12v power. When the ground is connected, the circuit gets completed and allows the release motor to do its thing. What makes the seat fold down are the heavy duty springs on the hinges where the upper seat is bolted down. In terms of wiring the the switch on the cargo panels, the routing will look like this: 12v power -> red wire on upper seat harness -> black wire on upper seat harness extended to 1st wire on rear switch on cargo panel -> 2nd wire on rear switch on cargo panel connected to ground or any common ground No relay is needed and the power wire to the release motor just needs to be tapped to a constant 12v+ source so that the function can be used even when the car is off. The switch itself is just a glorified toggle switch so that the ground circuit can be completed. Let me know if you have any questions.

I have the matching grey alcantara armrests if you're interested. Beautiful wagon btw!

Hoping that it’s not too late of a post but if you want to retain the SRS and side airbags, this is my recommendation. I used the non SRS pieces at first but seeing how easy they can pop off i’d be scared to see what happens when a side airbag deploys. But as long as you run on no airbags, then that shouldn’t be a concern. Check my post https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5870227&postcount=666

Wanted to get everyone's opinion on the best practice to prime the motor after being newly built. I know about priming the oil pump while building the motor. I have new GSC cams as well and I was told that the first start is critical.

This is the result. Good beading outside but no blocked oil passages. You can always verify by doing a light check

This is the result. This is honestly all it needs and keeping this far away from the oil passages actually allows it to spread just enough without blocking it after the torquing procedure.

Apply your choice of sealant. Preferably Fujibond or similar. I personally use Toyota's FIPG

Don't know if anyone else does this when sealing the front cam caps, but i've found that it helps keep the oil passages from getting clogged from too much sealant. I've done this on 10 motors now and not one has ever leaked. I tape up around the dowel alignment pin. There's a small space next to the dowel to allow just the right amount of sealant without it flowing to the oil passage

So last night I was able to re-torque the heads after letting it sit for a day. Did the valve lash and got the buckets and journals all nicely lubed. Also put these pretty cams in.

More stuff to add to the parts list that I haven't made yet lol.

Twinning! The seats are so awesome! Actually, the first pair I had were like WRX USA's. It had the grey inserts and white stitching. But it really bugged me because it didn't really match the rear seats the bolsters were really beat up. At first to try and offset it, I bought a grey alcantara center console lid from the one of the JDM TBSTI but it still didn't flow well(its for sale btw). I was browsing on crooober for some parts for my BRZ and I ran across it. Before that time, I didn't even know they had the black insert red stitching. Even better that it was cheaper, shipping was cheaper and it was in better condition. Definitely one of my fav mods in the car. I'm really hoping so. I don't know which trans to get. I wanna say I want the longer Forester STI gearing but at the same time i don't know how the power band will be affected. Also I need to save up for the biggest BBK. I think the power this car will put out might just be too much for me. The wagon was suppose to replace my BRZ as the DD, but now its just all out. I guess the BRZ is just a better daily anyway:p I'll keep everyone posted if I get any other info. I'm trying to ask my friend in Japan to see if he can get me the JDM wiring diagram. I really wish we had all these options.

So update, I spent my weekend putting together the short-block together. I had a small hiccup because the machine shop forgot to put the alignment dowels on the block and I couldn't align the head gasket and the head. Luckily, a nearby dealership had them in stock and I was able to get the dowels the next day. For those that might be curious, the motor is a full build. Bottom End: -Wiseco Forged Pistons 99.5 8.9:1 Compression Ratio -Manley H-Beam Rods -Polished and balanced STI Crank -King Bearing -Total Seal Rings -Line-bored block -ARP headstuds/case-half bolts/rod bolts -11mm STI Oil Pump Heads: -GSC S2 Cams 272/272 -GSC Beehive Springs w/Titanium Retainers -GSC Brass Valve Guides -Supertech Nitrided Intake Valves 36mm -Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves 32mm -Port and polish -5 angle valve job We're gonna try to go for an 8000rpm build, which is why we chose the 272 cams. On the other end of the spectrum we don't want the power band to shift too much to the left so we stayed with regular sized valves and upped the compression a little bit. Hopefully my choice of the 1.5xtr 10cm2 will be a good pairing and allow a pretty decent spool-up and still hold till redline. Well, I hope at least. Here's a view of those beehive springs and titanium retainers

Thanks madrig! your build has been one of my inspirations.

Start a build thread too! I'll start compiling a parts list once I've started putting them in the car. I've been so pre-occupied with my short block build and its taking all my time lol. I've been trying to be really meticulous about the motor since there's so many parts being thrown on there and I can't afford a small mistake. On a side note, I've wanted the USDM version of the gauge pack but its so hard to come by, and when it does, its sometimes not complete or the seller is asking an arm and limb for it. I got lucky purchasing it from Japan at 3/4 the retail cost and it was complete will all the harness and even the single DIN cubby trim.

I was looking at the wiring and it seems like the switch only has two wires. I'm gonna take a wild guess that one is power and one connects to the actual release motors on the rear seats, which would mean that the 2nd wire coming from the seats is ground. Or it could be reversed and power goes straight to the seats and the switch completes the ground. Hopefully once I'm done with the short block i'll have some time to get a multimeter and see how things are wired up.

Here are all the parts that I'm hoping to install in the next couple of weeks.

I've been hoarding engine parts for the last 5 months and I think i'm finally ready to start building the engine tonight. The heads and the block finally came back from the machine shop and they look so pretty. I've got my workbench all nice and organized

So these went in yesterday:) I'm really curious how the STI rack with solid U-joint will feel compared to the stock one. I also cleaned the engine bay today.