ehsnils Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 No crank at all? Make sure gear is in neutral or parked and then jump between battery positive and control input on starter. If nothing happens it's the starter that's dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 It's unlikely, but I've heard bad things about those kinds of battery terminals vs solder terminals. Is the negative cable completely snug, didn't loosen up with vibration or cold temps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 It's unlikely, but I've heard bad things about those kinds of battery terminals vs solder terminals. Is the negative cable completely snug, didn't loosen up with vibration or cold temps? I have never had any problems with that type of terminals as long as the wiring has the proper dimension. But the terminals at the other end is sometimes a headache - as are the weak dimension on the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgemoulic Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 I took off the starter and it is fine. https://youtu.be/PfBEdyu0y80 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Long shot but do you have another key for the car you can check with? The ecu and inmobilizer work together with the keys. If something is off your car won't crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgemoulic Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Car don’t have immobilizer. My key Doesn’t have chip. I’m only using one the same key Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Car don’t have immobilizer. My key Doesn’t have chip. I’m only using one the same keyI didn't see it was 2.5i n/a, sorry. Ignition switch? Engine & Starter Grounds? Crank sensor wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgemoulic Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Engine and Starter ground works well. Crank Sensor Wiring has proper voltage going trough. Ignition switch I didn’t check it yet. My question is if the ignition switch is the problem why does my Autostarter won’t work if that would be the case? It’s giving me the same sound like the one I’m doing on the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 I took off the starter and it is fine. https://youtu.be/PfBEdyu0y80 It's better to test it in place to make sure that it's behaving well when everything is correctly mounted. Sometimes things changes when you remove them and hairline cracks seals. As for the ignition lock - look at the electrical wiring schematics. Here you have three items in the chain, fuse 21 in the box by your knee in the drivers compartment, the starter relay and the security relay. The starter relay is in connector B225 in area C-2 and the security relay is in connector B323 in area C-4. Usually the relays aren't the problem, but it even they can die sometimes. Start with checking the fuse, and also pull the fuse, use a multimeter and check the voltage on the pins in the fuse. If there's voltage on one of the pins when turning the key then the ignition lock is probably good. Measure both with fuse in and fuse out. If that checks out, then it might be the inhibitor switch or wiring to it that's bad. It's connected to pin D9 (in connector B137) on the ECM (B32 (in connector B135) and D8 (in connector B137) are also on the ECM), both are in area C-4 in the map below. Check if D9 becomes grounded when you have the gear shifter in parked or neutral. Measure the resistance between ground and the pin with a multimeter. For further reading: https://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/2005/2005.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 I think the p0335 code is key. I'd check the resistance of the new crankshaft position sensor you got and see if it's between 1 - 4 kilo-ohms as specified by the fsm, maybe the new sensor is no good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Great info and schematic diagrams Nils. I put this in my IDEA sticky as the diagrams can possibly help others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgemoulic Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Alright I have something to dig in this New Year, it will be one of my New Years résolution to fix this car once and for all, thank you for the help. I’ll keep you posted after the Celebrations. Happy New Year to all! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgemoulic Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 Starter Relay is Fine. I put a jumper on the black white wires and black red which the car starts, I grounded the Green Blue wire which is active also while cranking. I tried 3 attempts without the jumper the car started. Then again no more start. Digging in with the ECM for the pins. B225 Area is Fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgemoulic Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 So I did a jumper and the car started, went out for a spin just to check if there’s a code that will show everything went well. On the highway then went to an exit to make a turn. On the stop the car stalled. Bad Luck second tow for the car going home. Didn’t check what are the codes showing. I’m thinking the ecm itself is the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgemoulic Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 This is PITA, I got this code P0700 & P0725 the car won’t start anymore. Still giving the Crankshaft Sensor Fault as well P0335. P0725 is PCM which is related to the ECM. If I Replace it would it needs to reprogram the ECM what tools do i need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 When you have issues with both engine and gearbox ecus I would definitely look at the power supply parts - like the ground wire between battery negative and engine etc. The P0700 may need a dealer reader to get into what the gearbox actually states. So it might just be a power supply issue rather than an ECU issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2OSB Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Wow, that's an utterly frustrating situation. I, too, am still having issues similar to you. I think you're correct, my situation was/is not the starter after all. Fortunately for me, when it happens, I can resolve the issue (albeit temporarily) by doing the ECM reset in the field as I described it on page one of this thread. Thus far, this has worked every single time. I thought I'd gotten passed the issue since it had not happened in about a month, however, it happened again this afternoon. Before, I would get about 10 starts before it happened again. In my case, I always get three engine codes (crank and both cam position sensors) and a single ABS relay code. That said, I don't even look at the codes anymore. It's been exactly that same each time. I simply remove both battery post connections, hold the brake pedal for 30 seconds, reconnect the battery, turn the key to ON for ten seconds, then turn to start. Fires up immediately following that. I went through many tests prior to trying the ECM reset, however nowhere near with the OP has done. I'm in the central valley of California with a pretty decent climate and no salt on the roads. All of my ground connections I could find were clean, dry and corrosion free. Sure wish I know the cause so I could correct it. On the times it does NOT occur, the car runs flawlessly, which is why it's so frustrating....I have no idea what to fix. I am the only owner of the car, so I know the car's history but I'm getting incredibly close to not owning this car anymore. Good luck. You've very persistent, and I admire your patience. H2OSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 I know the starter has been mentioned, but I'd do some voltage testing involving the starter. I just googled these codes, and for a lot of people, it's the starter. So I'd make sure the starter is getting the proper amount of power (starter nut and post), that the starter ground is good, and that the starter signal wire to the solenoid is good. There might be better videos out there on voltage drop testing, but I like these guys and was too lazy to do a lot of searching.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2OSB Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 I know the starter has been mentioned, but I'd do some voltage testing involving the starter. I just googled these codes, and for a lot of people, it's the starter. So I'd make sure the starter is getting the proper amount of power (starter nut and post), that the starter ground is good, and that the starter signal wire to the solenoid is good. There might be better videos out there on voltage drop testing, but I like these guys and was too lazy to do a lot of searching.. Thanks for the input. I found the starter to be the problem for most in the same situation as well, thus I replaced it. The odd thing for me is the fact the car works perfectly EXCEPT on the odd occasion when it won't turn over. Then I simply reset the ECM at that time, which solves the problem until the next time it happens...usually 10+ starts later. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I'm just glad I'm able to reset and get rolling again. H2OSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Yeah, that is really strange. I guess I'm just trying to preach to look into the wiring and connections, and not just replacing parts like the ecm and starter. New/reman parts could always be DOA, or have issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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