Broken Oil Filter Pad

[TheHoffmann]

I purchased a 05 STI for a bargain as a part out and wanted to reuse the engine. Now after parting it out I saw that the oil filter pad and thread are broken off...has someone had anything like that before and has some tips for me other than buying a new block?

[Notorious]

The filter actually threads onto a hollow bolt that can be removed. Not sure the part number though. However if the threads inside have stripped as a result of some sort of impact then the block will need to be repaired. Not sure if a tap and die would even work at that point.

 

Also want to clarify if this oil filter pad you’re talking about is the oil cooler or not.

 

Edit: just saw the pics, is that piece on the threads part of the block or the oil cooler??

[rhino6303]

I think you'll be fine as it appears the block still has plenty of thread left.

 

The bolt for the cooler/filter setup doesn't tighten against the broken surface; it tightens against the cooler itself.

 

I would tighten a cooler onto the block and then remove to see if it damged anything further.

[Max Capacity]

Here's what it should look like, sorry I couldn't find a picture of the pipe with the 24mm hex on it, but yours doesn't look stock. I seem to recall you need 24mm deep socket to remove the pipe.

 

 

[relative4]

#ynansb

[Sgt.Gator]

TheHoffmann I broke my filter off at Oregon Raceway Park a few years ago when I left the track at over 100 mph and bounced over a berm and a ditch. It looked almost exactly like what yours looks like.

 

There were still enough threads in the block to hold the oil filter pipe securely in it. So we screwed a new pipe in and back to racing.

 

The issue for you is, how long did this engine run while the the oil filter was sheared off? Resulting in 0 oil pressure. In my case it was just a few seconds and being a race car I knew I'd be rebuilding the engine soon anyway. So you may have a lot of bearing damage and who knows what else.

 

IMHO I'd replace the block with a new oem shortblock. Or just go ahead and run it but start saving your $ for a new block because you will likely need it.

[rhino6303]

Another thing that would ne nice to know is how you found it broken.

 

It appears there is a sandwich adapter that was used. It could have been the previous owner over torqued the bolt and snapped the aluminum and ran it that way without issue.

 

Since the sandwich adapter makes the filter hang lower, the filter could have been hit by an object and cracked/broke the aluminum and it came aprt upon removal.

 

It could have hit something when the engine was removed and then broke.

 

The reason it broke would help decide if it should be ran that way. As stated, the threads appear long enough to hold but if it was ran there could be engine damage. Metal in oil?

[TheHoffmann]

The filter actually threads onto a hollow bolt that can be removed. Not sure the part number though. However if the threads inside have stripped as a result of some sort of impact then the block will need to be repaired. Not sure if a tap and die would even work at that point.

 

Also want to clarify if this oil filter pad you’re talking about is the oil cooler or not.

 

Edit: just saw the pics, is that piece on the threads part of the block or the oil cooler??

 

The threads in the block are fine, but as you see there are not many left.

It's part of the block, you can see in the pictures of the block where it broke off

[TheHoffmann]

TheHoffmann I broke my filter off at Oregon Raceway Park a few years ago when I left the track at over 100 mph and bounced over a berm and a ditch. It looked almost exactly like what yours looks like.

 

There were still enough threads in the block to hold the oil filter pipe securely in it. So we screwed a new pipe in and back to racing.

 

The issue for you is, how long did this engine run while the the oil filter was sheared off? Resulting in 0 oil pressure. In my case it was just a few seconds and being a race car I knew I'd be rebuilding the engine soon anyway. So you may have a lot of bearing damage and who knows what else.

 

IMHO I'd replace the block with a new oem shortblock. Or just go ahead and run it but start saving your $ for a new block because you will likely need it.

 

The car rolled over several times after the driver lost control of it in a corner (Streetcar though). I payed what the breaks are worth, everything else was for free. There were no chips or any debris in the Oil sump and the cylinders look alright. Looks like two valves had contact and I will change them out.

 

That was the plan, run it because it was free and build a more powerful engine next year.

[TheHoffmann]

Another thing that would ne nice to know is how you found it broken.

 

It appears there is a sandwich adapter that was used. It could have been the previous owner over torqued the bolt and snapped the aluminum and ran it that way without issue.

 

Since the sandwich adapter makes the filter hang lower, the filter could have been hit by an object and cracked/broke the aluminum and it came aprt upon removal.

 

It could have hit something when the engine was removed and then broke.

 

The reason it broke would help decide if it should be ran that way. As stated, the threads appear long enough to hold but if it was ran there could be engine damage. Metal in oil?

 

The car rolled over after loss of control. Was already damaged before removal.

 

No there was no metal in the oil or any other debris