Qship Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 No luck with a search. Does anyone know of a walk through for removing the rotors. I have Bobcats to put on and when I had the new tires put on the tech said it was just a couple of more bolts than doing the pads. Haven't done anything like this in the past but I can certainly undo some bolts and torque to spec. Is there anything I should be aware of that isn't covered in the vacations pics? Any special tools needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iON Performance Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 Qship - Get yourself (2) M8x1.25 bolts; it will help to "pop" off the stock rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDxBOOST Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 basically you just undo the two bolts per caliper and then pull off the rotor the back rotors will be a beast with out an impact or air ratchet ill tell you that you'll need a fairly long extension for the bottom bolts on the rear caliper bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFar Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 I havent looked at the LGT rotors, but I know the WRX has an extra hole, I dont recall the thread count, but I took off a radiator support bracket bolt (12mm I think), put it in the extra hole and screwed it down which pushed it against the hub. In essence, its VERY hard to manually pry the rotor off, and I get called a gorilla all the time. Check it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 You asked for it...so hear ya are! Enjoy.03 - Front Disc Rotor.pdf06 - Rear Disc Rotor.pdf03 - Front Disc Rotor.pdf06 - Rear Disc Rotor.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 If you're just doing pads, you shouldn't have to remove the rotors- are you putting on upgraded rotors or just the pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qship Posted November 9, 2005 Author Share Posted November 9, 2005 I'm just doing pads but. Larry at Carbotech insists that I need to remove the old pad material from the rotors to make sure the pads bedin properly. Instead of having them cut I was going to "resurface" them myself with a coarse grit sanding sponge. Even if it's OK to resurface them on the car, which doesn't strike me as the way to go, I don't have a clue how rough to make them. I'm starting to feel that I've bit off more than I can chew. Maybe I should just go deeper in debt and get new rotors even thought I've got less than 8k on these. Any thougts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edmundu Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 If you don't have any puslations now, it would be a waste of money to change the rotors! The stock rotors are actually decent, it's the pads that stink! Do as Lary suggested, using scotchbrite pads, instead of the sandpaper. The scotchbrite won't leave behind particles on the rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 I'd be wary of trying to resurface your rotors yourself- if they need to be resurfaced, take them to a shop. I'd wager that there won't be much if any pad material on the rotors- I'd just use some brake cleaner on the rotors and resintall the new pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 I have pulsations on my rotors, but only at certain speeds/rotor temps. I don't think I have warped rotors, just oem pad composites on my rotors. I will taking off my rotors myself and cleaning them with a air-powered dremel-like rotary tool and some abrasives. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Here is a FAQ from another website that covers the scotch pad precedure: Frequently asked questions: Q. What will happen if I do not break my new pads in? A. All racing brake pads require bedding to prepare the friction surface of the pad. U.S. Brake pads, if not bedded, may still provide a reasonable amount of performance, however braking quality as well as pad and rotor wear may be significantly affected. Q. What if I feel brake fade during the break-in procedure? A. The combination of brake system, vehicle weight, and track size will effect the amount of time needed to properly prepare the pad and may shorten the above procedures. If fade or a soft pedal is noticed during break-in simply park the car immediately and allow the pads to cool for about 20 minutes. Your pads should then be ready for racing use. Q. Why do racing pads require a break-in procedure? A. The rubbing surface of the brake pad reaches extreme heat levels during racing use. When new this surface needs slow temperature increases to help prepare the pad. Large amounts of heat all at one time can cause the pad rubbing surface to become somewhat liquefied and coat the pad surface with a glaze. This will dramatically reduce stopping performance. Proper break-in will assure that small amounts of heat are introduced to the pad. Q. What is a pre-burnished pad? A. Some brake pad manufactures offer brake pads that are pre-burnished during the manufacturing process. Pads that are pre-burnished in this way have had high temperature applied to the rubbing surface to simulate the first few engagements on an actual racecar. The process allows the pad to break-in quickly and begin working more effectively in a shorter amount of time. Even after a pad has been pre-burnished a break-in procedure should still be performed to assure that the pad and the rotor have an opportunity to mate correctly. Q. What is a pre-bedded pad? A. Some brake pad manufactures offer a pre-bedded pad and/or a pre-bedding service. Pre-bedding is done by placing a pad in a caliper and running them with a rotor driven by mechanical means. The rotor and the pad are then slowly brought up to temperature and allowed to cool down over several cycles. This process simulates real on track situations while the two surfaces are mated correctly. This process, while very expensive, greatly reduces the break-in time prior to purchase. In most cases the rotor and the pad would be sold as a matched set. Q. What should I do when I install new brake pads? A. First check the rotor for straightness. Never exceed run-out of .008". Do not use a rotor that has excessive cracks. Lightly clean the rotor surface with scotch bright or light sandpaper. This will allow the new pad to adhere to the rotor without mixing with the old pad material. Always perform a break-in procedure. --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Good info thanks. I get my new pads in on Friday! Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 I'm just doing pads but. Larry at Carbotech insists that I need to remove the old pad material from the rotors to make sure the pads bedin properly. Instead of having them cut I was going to "resurface" them myself with a coarse grit sanding sponge. Even if it's OK to resurface them on the car, which doesn't strike me as the way to go, I don't have a clue how rough to make them. I'm starting to feel that I've bit off more than I can chew. Maybe I should just go deeper in debt and get new rotors even thought I've got less than 8k on these. Any thougts? Whenever I do new pads, I take the rotors to a brake/muffler place close by, and for $5 they will do a cleanup pass on them. It's normally $10 to turn a scored rotor, but I will usually replace them if there is any scoring. The cleanup pass also insures that the rotor surface is flat. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Here is a FAQ from another website that covers the scotch pad precedure: Frequently asked questions: Q. What will happen if I do not break my new pads in? A. All racing brake pads require bedding to prepare the friction surface of the pad. U.S. Brake pads, if not bedded, may still provide a reasonable amount of performance, however braking quality as well as pad and rotor wear may be significantly affected. <snip> A. First check the rotor for straightness. Never exceed run-out of .008". Do not use a rotor that has excessive cracks. Lightly clean the rotor surface with scotch bright or light sandpaper. This will allow the new pad to adhere to the rotor without mixing with the old pad material. Always perform a break-in procedure. Good advice, but the mfrs recommendations should be followed for bedding them in, as some brake pad mfrs will specify that bedding-in is not necessary. There are a lot of suggestions out there for bedding, but here's a short, sweet one for seasoning new rotors and bedding pads: http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grantmi1 Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Thanks for your post and pictures it helped big time. I have done many brake jobs before but never on a Subaru and all cars are different when it comes to rotor removal. Anyway appreciate it big time as I was trying to remove them with a block of wood and a hammer. The 8mm metric bolt is much easier. I joined the forums just to thank you it was such a help. You asked for it...so hear ya are! Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Wow, that's an old post ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Yeah, but it's probably one that should be stickied unde rthe basic maintenance thread. When I did the 1st brake job a couple of years ago, I also found the rotor bolt method to be VERY useful. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Couple of hints: 1.) The bolts that hold the radiator brackets are the proper size/thread pitch to use for breaking the rotors free from the hubs. 2.) Remember to have your parking brake disengaged before attempting to remove the rear rotors.radiator bolts.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Thanks for your post and pictures it helped big time. I have done many brake jobs before but never on a Subaru and all cars are different when it comes to rotor removal. Anyway appreciate it big time as I was trying to remove them with a block of wood and a hammer. The 8mm metric bolt is much easier. I joined the forums just to thank you it was such a help. Awfully nice of you. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grantmi1 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 On that note. So the parking brake is in the back? I have heard different input, from the parking break has it's own pads, to the parking brake is in the front. Which is it? Also my parking break since the car was new has not worked very well whats up with that. You have to yank real hard to get it to actually apply much pressure. My wifes car is a 2005 Outback XT, mine is a commuter hooptie. Couple of hints: 1.) The bolts that hold the radiator brackets are the proper size/thread pitch to use for breaking the rotors free from the hubs. 2.) Remember to have your parking brake disengaged before attempting to remove the rear rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 The parking brakes are in the rear. They use two brake shoes per side, and the drum is the inside of the "hat" on the rotor. You can adjust them out, just like the "old days" (I still have a brake adjusting tool in my toolbox!!). FWIW, I found this to be a real blessing, as I was tired of working on cars with the parking brake connected to the caliper, and you had to do that pressing/twisting motion to turn in the rear pistons. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Couple of hints: 1.) The bolts that hold the radiator brackets are the proper size/thread pitch to use for breaking the rotors free from the hubs. 2.) Remember to have your parking brake disengaged before attempting to remove the rear rotors. VERY helpful. Thanks!!! Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 I have been reading, searching, and looking on everything with brakes lately.... I haven't heard anyone really talk about calipers.... are the stock calipers working great.... how long should they last... some brake places (and tire places) always change out the caliper whenever they do a brake service... probably for more money but it does bring up the question...when do calipers need service or replacement..... if we add the Hawk HPS pads, new brake fluid, performance rotors,.....but I don't hear anything about the calipers...... thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 OK so is there somewhere that I can read the 8mm bolt or radiator bolt procedure or will I understand it once I get the tires off and start trying to figure out how to pull off the rotor? From when I did the caliper paint job it just looks like one big bolt in the center and then the rotor should slip off.....guess its not that easy....?????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 OK so is there somewhere that I can read the 8mm bolt or radiator bolt procedure or will I understand it once I get the tires off and start trying to figure out how to pull off the rotor? From when I did the caliper paint job it just looks like one big bolt in the center and then the rotor should slip off.....guess its not that easy....?????????? Check the attached pdf files in post #5 above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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