Looking to buy my first ever subaru. Need suggestions.

[simix1919]

Hey guys. I've been looking at the 4th gen lgt. What are the most common issues with the car? I've been looking at examples with around 200k kms. What should I look out for when looking at and test driving the car? I dont know much about subarus but im looking to get into them.

Thanks in advance.

[sshole]

Most common issue?

 

Needing a new shortblock for a plethora of reasons (low oil, bad oil, head gaskets, etc.)

Bushings failing

Rattles from heatshields

Rattles from random stuff inside the cabin (buried deep within the center console)

Power steering rack leaking

Power steering pump leaking

Wheel hub bearings failing all. the. damn. time.

Brake lines rusting through and catastrophically failing

Plastic radiator end tanks crack

 

If you get a turbo model:

Needing a new turbo because your shortblock is on its way out

[nevets27]

Most common issue?

 

Needing a new shortblock for a plethora of reasons (low oil, bad oil, head gaskets, etc.)

Bushings failing

Rattles from heatshields

Rattles from random stuff inside the cabin (buried deep within the center console)

Power steering rack leaking

Power steering pump leaking

Wheel hub bearings failing all. the. damn. time.

Brake lines rusting through and catastrophically failing

Plastic radiator end tanks crack

 

If you get a turbo model:

Needing a new turbo because your shortblock is on its way out

 

I think that's maybe a bit much... I can't say I'm seasoned for this generation but it's definitely not as bad as sshole makes it out to be.

 

First, low oil/bad oil is a owner issue not a car issue.

 

Bushings do fail/get worn out on cars with 200k so that's not odd. With the exception of the LCA bushing, not a great design there.

 

Rattling heat shields is also normal on an old car.

 

Rattles on the interior also pretty normal and generally has a lot to do with how many clips are left after machanics get in there.

 

If the power steering pump is leaking, simple O-ring. Seen a lot worse on other cars.

 

Wheel bearings do wear out. It is a wear part. Maybe premature but not a big deal.

 

Brake lines rusting is definitely a problem. More so on this car than other? No idea but it is brutal.

 

Had the plastic end tank on the rad break on a previous subaru after more then 20 years.

[hollywood91]

There were recalls for the brake lines salting out- That's dependent on where you live.

 

The big issue is an oil screen plugging on the FEED to the turbo, if that's never been changed that could be bad. The oem turbo is known to be hit or miss with longevity. Mine personally failed at 75k. Afterwards I removed the oil screen (it wasn't plugged), and removed the up pipe cat.

 

The radiators might crack if its super hot, mine cracked at 103k and 10 years old.

 

If you can, get a car that has good compression numbers and all that good stuff inspected already.

[Dishwasher]

Most common issue is poor kids buying these after they've been abused, and ending up with a blown motor shortly thereafter.

[Max Capacity]

Those are a good start to the list...

 

I've been around here a while, unless you have $6000 in the bank after you buy one of these, go somewhere else.

 

There are a few that are well maintained, but that's because we have put in the money into the car. I bought my 05 new late June 2004, $28,000. I'm well into paying for it the third time.

 

These GT's do offer good bang for the buck if you get a good one.

 

Do you know how to work on cars ?

Do you have a good set of tools ?

 

I have a engine hoist, air tools, floor jacks. And spare car to drive when my wagon is down. Not to scare you away, but... know what your getting into.

 

Read the sticky's at the tops of some of the forums, you'll learn.

[TrashyMG]

Those are a good start to the list...

 

I've been around here a while, unless you have $6000 in the bank after you buy one of these, go somewhere else.

 

There are a few that are well maintained, but that's because we have put in the money into the car. I bought my 05 new late June 2004, $28,000. I'm well into paying for it the third time.

 

These GT's do offer good bang for the buck if you get a good one.

 

Do you know how to work on cars ?

Do you have a good set of tools ?

 

I have a engine hoist, air tools, floor jacks. And spare car to drive when my wagon is down. Not to scare you away, but... know what your getting into.

 

Read the sticky's at the tops of some of the forums, you'll learn.

No doubt, my total investment in my 05 LGT I got several months ago, I prob could have bought a brand new base model Kia. $5,000 dollars of that was just doing servicing I felt was needed as the car had 204,000 miles on it and had no prior service history.

Edited June 16, 2018 by TrashyMG

[JustCallMeNick]

Find one you like and pay a shop nearby to do a pre-purchase inspection and a compression test on the engine. They should also disconnect the downpipe to check the turbo shaft play.

 

It's common for turbos to fail and leave behind metal in the oiling system so many times a recently replaced turbo is a red flag and the engine and turbo could go.

[ehsnils]

Most common issue?

 

Needing a new shortblock for a plethora of reasons (low oil, bad oil, head gaskets, etc.)

Bushings failing

Rattles from heatshields

Rattles from random stuff inside the cabin (buried deep within the center console)

Power steering rack leaking

Power steering pump leaking

Wheel hub bearings failing all. the. damn. time.

Brake lines rusting through and catastrophically failing

Plastic radiator end tanks crack

 

If you get a turbo model:

Needing a new turbo because your shortblock is on its way out

 

 

Broken oil pickup tube.

[sunny5280]

I'm surprised no one mentioned this but avoid any turbo model if the turbo has been recently replaced and the owner cannot give a satisfactory reason why. The italicized words are important. Knowing the reason for a turbo replacement is important. If it failed and was therefore replaced then run away from it. If it was replaced proactively, and you feel the seller is being honest, then it's something to consider.

 

If you do come across one that has had the turbo replaced and you're seriously considering it come back here and ask for advice.

[hollywood91]

I'm surprised no one mentioned this but avoid any turbo model if the turbo has been recently replaced and the owner cannot give a satisfactory reason why. The italicized words are important. Knowing the reason for a turbo replacement is important. If it failed and was therefore replaced then run away from it. If it was replaced proactively, and you feel the seller is being honest, then it's something to consider.

 

If you do come across one that has had the turbo replaced and you're seriously considering it come back here and ask for advice.

 

 

VERY good point. When mine failed (Check engine light came on, wasn't catastrophic), I put maybe 4 miles on the car from where the light came on and I parked at home. Towed it to the dealer and had them pull the oil pan and it was filled with metal shavings after just ~4 miles. Warranty replaced BOTH engine and turbo. I could see a single turbo replacement ending very bad for my engine if it hadn't been replaced.