brcreswell1 Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 Yea my fuel trims are all within +-3, I will certainly check it though. Anyone have any comments about the compression test? I see lots of people on here getting 130-140 so should I be worried? The fact that they are all close together and the engine was cold makes me feel better but. 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 The internets usually say that consistent numbers is what counts in the end. This is what I see in yours. So I would say they are OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 From my understanding, those numbers look OK for a compression test on a cold EJ25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logie_OBXT Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 Thank you very much for that writeup, I'll give that a shot. Everyone was worrying me by saying my cam deals will blow if I don't open my oil cap. Is that not something I need to worry about? On a side note, I just did a compression test. Engine is ambient temp, and all spark plugs removed. Does this look okay? 1 - 116psi 3 - 117psi 2 - 115psi 4 - 110psi 2005 LGT MT stage 1 While popping out the cam seals is a possibility, it is only going to happen if you hook up your air compressor without regulating the pressure down from 90psi from using your impact and then open it full bore. I regulate mine all the way down and slowly come up to about 25-30psi indicated on the compressor. Then I slowly open the ball valve on that inlet tester I made. Your engine is going to see 20psi from the turbo, as well as the cam seals. If they pop out, then well, there's part of your problem. Just don't leave the engine pressureized for long periods of time. A minute or two max while you hunt down a leak. Usually it won't even take you that long to pinpoint or at least get a good general area for a leak. My guess is you won't even get to 5psi before finding a bunch of leaks. This will stress test every damn hose and connection in your engine. The only hose that I pinch off is the hose to the three way purge valve from the inlet tube because it makes a horrendous noise as the valve fights against itself. Also, tape your oil dipstick to the tube. It may pop out and bring a lot of oil with it. One of the leaks I had was one of the two oil dipstick tube o-rings where it enters the oil pan. One of them tore as I was assembling the engine apparently. It probably won't hurt to invest in a lot of zip ties and high quality T-clamps. Those worm drive clamps are okay, but any time you go cranking down on them, they end up cutting into what they're compressing. That pic of my BOV tube tear was from a worm drive clamp. As to the compression numbers, as said above, look for consistency across the cylinders. 4 is a little low, but not way out. To really test correctly, the engine needs to be warm. You know, so you can get a fresh tattoo of the exhaust on your forearm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 You know, so you can get a fresh tattoo of the exhaust on your forearm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 NEVER boost leak test without taking off the oil fill cap. Or you WILL blow seals. The crankcase does NOT see pressure from the turbo. The PCV valve's job is to prevent that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 Actually you want to keep the cap on. You will not blow any seals unless you put 40+psi of pressure in there. Most professional leak checkers only test at 1-2psi. On a MAF based system, ANY air leaks will cause a fueling mis-calculation. So if your oil fill cap is missing it's gasket and leaking air, that's a problem. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logie_OBXT Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 NEVER boost leak test without taking off the oil fill cap. Or you WILL blow seals. The crankcase does NOT see pressure from the turbo. The PCV valve's job is to prevent that. If you're blowing any seals out at 20psi of air, then that's the least of your worries. My engine runs 115psi cold oil pressure. If the cam seals can hold that, then they can hold 20psi of air. These engines are completely sealed and any leak (air/oil) will show up. The only way to verify that your engine is sealed is to completely pressurize it. Keeping the oil cap loose so that you can easily vent the pressure is a good idea. But you also want to make sure that the seal on the oil cap isn't hard and brittle and leaking itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brcreswell1 Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 Already have a tattoo from a hot exhaust... One of the reasons I did it cold. Just finished taking the motor out. The throwout bearing was toast so I'm hoping that was the source of my knock retard. I will be replacing as many vac lines and gaskets as I can with the engine out to hopefully make sure I don't also have a boost leak. I will also be removing the banjo bolt filter while the motor is out, and installing a cobb downpipe. Anything else I should do? 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Put a built motor in. My engine runs 115psi cold oil pressure. If the cam seals can hold that, then they can hold 20psi of air. Cam seals should see almost no pressure. Oiling ports and oil powered devices (AVCS) see full oil pressure, but once the oil goes through those orifices and devices, the pressure should be almost zero. The cam seals only prevent oil that is draining back to the pan from leaking out. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brcreswell1 Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 Good to know, yea if i had the money for a built motor I would... But sadly just the 600 for a clutch and flywheel and new tsk3 is painful. Anyone know where I could get a tsk3 bearing instead of the whole kit? Or should I replace the sleeve too. 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 You don't need to replace the sleeve. Last time I bought one was on ebay. Not cheap bearing I'd say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brcreswell1 Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 So that hole on that bracket there. There was no bolt in that. I assume there is supposed to be? That is behind where the uppipe was and under the turbo. It's part of the turbo mount 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Yep. That be the bracket what stops the turbo from fallin out the engine. So... yeah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 If you're blowing any seals out at 20psi of air, then that's the least of your worries. My engine runs 115psi cold oil pressure. If the cam seals can hold that, then they can hold 20psi of air. The oil pressure of that magnitude isn't right behind the seal, it's in the oil channels going to the bearings. The seals are on the other side of the bearings. Popping the seals is a risk that should be avoided since it's quite annoying and you don't really know that you have done it until you start to drive - or even a while after. Not fun to get the clutch well oiled if the crankshaft seal there pops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brcreswell1 Posted June 22, 2018 Author Share Posted June 22, 2018 Yep. That be the bracket what stops the turbo from fallin out the engine. So... yeah.Man o man am I glad I'm going through this. Whomever put this motor in had zero attention to detail. I had a bolt missing on the PS pump too, a nut missing... Wait for it... ON THE BELLHOUSING. And I have a feeling I might find a few more things before I'm done. Ordered a new clutch and flywheel yesterday, going with a single mass flywheel and an oem wrx clutch. Shift bushings because why not, new tsk kit ($210 dollars! They wouldn't sell me just the bearing, but I didn't look too hard on ebay). Uppipe, header wrap because I'm ripping off the rusty heatshields. And I bought upper and lower tgv gaskets, valve cover gaskets and exhaust gaskets. As if I haven't spent enough money, anything else I ought todo? (besides putting bolts in holes that were empty, teehee). 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Man o man am I glad I'm going through this. Whomever put this motor in had zero attention to detail. I had a bolt missing on the PS pump too, a nut missing... Wait for it... ON THE BELLHOUSING. And I have a feeling I might find a few more things before I'm done. Shortly after buying my LGT, I looked under the hood and found that my turbo was missing the two nuts/bolts on top and another nut due to a broken stud.. And you just reminded me, I think I recall that my bellhousing is also missing a nut or two I'd take a good look at any/all vacuum/breather hoses. That's a great "while-you're-there" thing to tackle. Also, the PCV valve if that hasn't been done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Me too. I had two bolts missing on my bellhousing. Lovely huh? When was the last time the timing belt was changed? That tsk3 kit is overpriced IMO. I remember back in 2013, I paid 186$ shipped from the US to France!! here is a link just for the bearing. A bit less than 100$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brcreswell1 Posted June 23, 2018 Author Share Posted June 23, 2018 Damn I already ordered the whole kit! Yea I'm planning on going through vac lines. Man was that manifold a pain in the ass, I'm hoping I can get it all back together without ripping my hair out... Finding all those hoses might be a challenge too so we will see how it goes. 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brcreswell1 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 So I ordered intake manifold gaskets. This is what I got. The manifold thay I took off has separate o rings for each side. Is this safe to use? Should I take out the o rings that are on the manifold already? I find it kinda weird that this is what I got. 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 So I ordered intake manifold gaskets. This is what I got. The manifold thay I took off has separate o rings for each side. Is this safe to use? Should I take out the o rings that are on the manifold already? I find it kinda weird that this is what I got. 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Those are the gaskets that go between the heads and the TGV, you want the gaskets that go between the TGV and the intake manifold. You're probably looking for #14035AA492. Edit: I was wrong, looks like they are for the TGV to the intake manifold. Sorry for the confusion. I'm wondering if they might be intended for the metal IM? maybe someone who knows more than me can chime in lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 ^^ Those gaskets are for metal intake manifold. You need Orange Rubber O-Rings. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logie_OBXT Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Yep, those are for the metal intake. They won't work, trust me, I've tried. Get the orange ones like mwiener2 said. They aren't too expensive, but you'll need 4 of them. The GS gaskets that go between the TGV and the heads are good. Could also get a set of the 8mm phenolic spacers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brcreswell1 Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 Well... The motor is back in. And my problem persists. Sooo.. THINGS THAT IT IS NOT: -MAF -CLUTCH BEARING -BAD TURBO -LOW COMPRESSION -FRONT 02 -SPARK PLUGS there's a chance I didn't get something secure during reinstall, therefore I'll be looking for boost leaks but for now, I'm just mad. 2005 LGT MT stage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Sorry to hear. And welcome to my world.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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