SubbieNoobie Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Idles perfectly revs fine at quarter throttle /half throttle. Cold idle at 2k, havent had running long enough to hear warm idle. Battery is completely dead, ive been testing from another battery /jumping it. Checked; TPS MAP sensor Knock sensor Coil pack New fuel filter PCV valve Other things i can't recall at this moment. All checked with multimeter. Next things on the list to check; Clogged cat Rear O2 Plugs? Ej25 manual 5 speed. 97 or 98 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 If the battery is dead, the alternator may not be generating enough power to run the car. Especially if the battery has a dead cell, it'll basically suck energy from the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 Car runs with the alternator just fine, but i dont want to buy a battery if this car is toast. I just unplugged rear O2 no change. Would that mean cat is clogged? I can rev it up to redline no problem as long as i do it gradually. If i just gun it, the thing sputters and misfires but still climbs rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Which O2 sensor did you unplug? The one in the cat is the only one that'd make the car run poorly, the one after the cat is just there to verify that everything is working, but the second one won't necessarily affect how the car runs. Also if the cats clogged you'd be getting back pressure build up or popping from the exhaust. Also cats don't normally go bad until over 200k. It sounds more like a spark or fuel issue only because it sounds like it only shows symptoms when it gets an abrupt load put on the system and the car can't handle it. When my coil was going bad the only way I knew it was bad was if I gave it a ton of throttle from a dead stop, as in, when I was pulling into traffic and had to get up to speed quickly. In that instance the car would bog down and sputter until I lifted the throttle a bit so that the engine could catch up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 My coil pack tested 1ohm both primaries and 12.65k for both secondaries. Within the limit the mechanic on YouTube says. But my subaru repair book says it should be. 70 primary and 12.70k secondary. So maybe that's my problem? Also the o2 is in the cat, unless im looking at it wrong, i don't have a jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 It's hard to say if it's the coil and being that they are $50+ and usually not returnable, you won't know for sure unless you just give in and buy a new one. But even if the car doesn't have a CEL, when the 02 sensors are bad, the CEL will come and go and the car will run like crap after about 6 months of ignoring the CEL, but it'll usually only run like crap at low rpm and idle, so I'd rule that out I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 The check engine light comes on immediately after starting the car even after computer reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Have you had a chance to read the code yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 I can't drive it anywhere, im stuck here until i figure out what it is. I have family an hour away that can come take me to buy a part but that's it. Cam position sensor?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Cam position sensor and crank position sensor reading 2k ohms. Within the 1k to 4k my book recommends. Im stumped guys. This car has 200k and all components seem to be in operating range. Fuel pump? Headgasket putting oil in cylinder? I need to leave tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Have you had the timing covers off and verified that the belt didn't jump some teeth? Mine idled poorly and had no wide open power, but was alright in the middle when it was three teeth off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Unfortunately i don't have a jack with me and minimal tools. It doesn't sound like a skipped tooth because if i hold half throttle i can get it to redline no misfires at all. Its only when it gets full throttle or suddenly underload that it starts coughing. Im thinking clogged cat is a strong culprit. Im going to disconnect the cat for testing tomorrow it should run better if it is the cat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Short video of it struggling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luis.l.ll Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 you can do autocheck to read error codes. Enviado desde mi SM-G7102 mediante Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 I just drove it around the block for the first time with the front 02 unplugged and it ran better but DEFINITELY misfiring on one cylinder. I know the feeling, its galloping like a horse. That leaves me with the plugs or plug wires that i can't get to because im two states away from my tools. What do you guys think? Misfiring ONLY on hard throttle or underload. Plug wires not letting enough spark through/shorting? Bad plug shorting? Coil pack failing to deliver correct voltage? Injector on one cylinder not functioning properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sorrowfulkiller Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 If it's OBD2 and it's misfiring check the code to see which cyl is misfiring. Replace that plug and swap the wire from another one. If it stops, great it was the plug, if it moves then it's the wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luis.l.ll Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Maybe injector on one cylinder not functioning properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubbieNoobie Posted June 1, 2018 Author Share Posted June 1, 2018 Unfortunately the car is sitting at someone's house and im 1500 miles away... Next time im up in Washington ill have my tools and my jacks. I was trying to do all this with just a screw driver and a multimeter. I was given the car because it didn't start and the renters were leaving, i got it running besides the problem. Some new information, apparently the problem slowly grew worse over time. The old fuel filter had black gas in it looked original... Made in Japan. Possible injector got clogged slowly over time? Possible fuel pump low pressure from trying to pump through old filter? Ill be back in a month or so. One nice thing i can say about my first subaru is that its rediculously easy to work on comparatively. Also very well made chassis, 200k Washington car with no rust. Is the EJ25 as bad as everyone is telling me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Normally I don't expect fuel injectors, but that is because, as a hobbyist, I'm biased toward cars that are better cared for. Hearing your description of the fuel filter I would say injectors not happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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