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what to monitor, and what to expect for a beginner


ripstik
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I know that this has been discussed before in many places on the forum but I'm struggling to find it so here this is. I have had the same stage 1 tune on my car for quite sometime with no issues (thanks Logan McDowell) and now that I'm out of warranty and planning on getting a new daily, i want to go further with my car. obviously going for more power requires increased monitoring be sure everything is safe. right now i track DAM (basically making sure it stays at 1), actual boost, target boost, and fine knock learning (which I honestly don't know what is good or bad)all the time but i want to gain more knowledge on what to log, what to look for within each parameter, what is acceptable, and what is ideal.

can someone point me in the right direction? this may even be a worthwhile sticky for all those looking to monitor the health of their tune if the right amount of info shows up..... THANKS!

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I’d not bother monitoring target boost, there are a lot of variables and environmental conditions that affect that. Watching that could lead to an unhealthy obsession:-). If you just want your devise for flashing information real time keep it simple. Boost, feedback knock, fine knock learnDAM/IAM. If you want more detail setup up more for your logging parameters so if you feel your car is running screwy log it with all the additional stuff you want, instead of having 6-10 things running real-time all the time.
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Thanks Snake! looks like a lot of good info there, i have some homework ahead of me.

 

I’d not bother monitoring target boost, there are a lot of variables and environmental conditions that affect that. Watching that could lead to an unhealthy obsession:-). If you just want your devise for flashing information real time keep it simple. Boost, feedback knock, fine knock learnDAM/IAM. If you want more detail setup up more for your logging parameters so if you feel your car is running screwy log it with all the additional stuff you want, instead of having 6-10 things running real-time all the time.

 

an unhealthy obsession is an understatement. I am looking for both, i want a set of parameters to keep displayed on my APv3 and one set to log to see more of the over all health of my tune.

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Thanks Snake! looks like a lot of good info there, i have some homework ahead of me.

 

 

 

an unhealthy obsession is an understatement. I am looking for both, i want a set of parameters to keep displayed on my APv3 and one set to log to see more of the over all health of my tune.

 

 

For daily driving, my 6 AP gauges would be:

 

 

- FBKC

- FLKC

- MAF

- A/F Learning #1

- Boost (Manifold Relative Pressure)

- A/F Sensor #1 or Calculated Load

 

 

With a perfect tune:

- The knock parameters are obvious, FLKC should always be at 0, FBKC should pretty much always be 0, but sometimes might drop due to false-knock readings or preemptive tip-in-related timing compensation.

- A/F Sensor #1 will allow you to ensure your fueling is good during closed-loop. It doesn't tell you much in open-loop because it isn't reliably accurate at the target AFRs in boost (under 11.5 or so), but if you're running dangerously lean, you may see something here.

- Once you know your tune, you can correlate A/F learning and A/F correction to your MAF values (only useful to diagnose closed-loop fueling). Typically your A/F learning should be within +/- 5% or so in all of its ranges if the tune is well done. When this is the case, anything outside of that could point to vacuum/boost leaks or closed-loop fueling issues

- If you log Calculated Load and RPM, then once you know your tune you can correlate FLKC to cells in real-time (without having to pull a LV). In cases you get FLKC, I find this useful to figure out if it's due to a transient condition (tip-in) or a steady-state fueling/timing issue. This is done by staying in the given RPM/load cell where the ECU pulled timing, and seeing if it pulls more (steady-state error, should definitely be fixed) or increases back towards 0 (possibly pulled timing due to a transient effect).

 

 

Until you understand what your ECU is doing and what everything means, it's not really worth monitoring/logging a bunch of random parameters. You typically change what to log or monitor based on what you're trying to diagnose.

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did a Quick 3rd gear pull for 2k on my lunch break just now (closed course obviously). Fine Knock Learn was -1.4/0

Feedback Knock was 0/0

AF Learning 1 was 0/7.81

AF Sensor 1 Curr. was -1.62/2.00 mA

 

i didn't do an actual log because the Computer i used to manipulate the AP shat the bed the other day, I'll need to set up a new with AP Manager, but how do those numbers look? Is -1.4 FKL acceptable, it is common for me to see this number. also is "AF Sensor 1 Curr. what you meant by "AF Sensor #1" my AP doesn't have that exact wording

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did a Quick 3rd gear pull for 2k on my lunch break just now (closed course obviously). Fine Knock Learn was -1.4/0

Feedback Knock was 0/0

AF Learning 1 was 0/7.81

AF Sensor 1 Curr. was -1.62/2.00 mA

 

i didn't do an actual log because the Computer i used to manipulate the AP shat the bed the other day, I'll need to set up a new with AP Manager, but how do those numbers look? Is -1.4 FKL acceptable, it is common for me to see this number. also is "AF Sensor 1 Curr. what you meant by "AF Sensor #1" my AP doesn't have that exact wording

 

 

No, A/F sensor 1 curr is not A/F Sensor #1. It's reported in AFR, so look for something reported there.

 

 

FLKC at -1.4 minimum isn't a good thing but potentially not a huge deal. Just seeing the minimum doesn't say much though, you need to look where that occurred. There's plenty of reading to do (look up "subaru knock control strategy explained"), so keep on reading!

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