Turbo Oil Line Removal

[TheUnsungWar]

Any ideas how to remove the metal oil lines on the turbo? And if it is a good idea? I'm just trying to clean it up. I got some sort of oil loss and I think the turbo might be a culprit (or whatever is in front of it).

 

Thanks!

[Marvick08GT]

Only the top line is oil. The return is the bottom ( leaks sometimes). The other 2 are coolant. Leave those alone if you only have an oil leak. Find the leak, you don't need to remove the lines unless there is an issue.

[Max Capacity]

You need to find out where the oil is. These cars are know for the passenger side valve cover to leak.

 

To oil return hose from the turbo may be leaking too. Your's is 13+ years old now.

 

The top oil feed line is remove from the banjo fitting at the turbo center section and then at the back of the head. I'm betting the connection joint in the line is rusted and will not break free. Mine was impossible to get apart 8 years ago.

[TheUnsungWar]

Interesting Max. I gotta wait for a computer to share the photo, but the build up looks to be between the bottom coolant/oil line and the oil out line on the bottom of the turbo. So maybe that out line seal needs to be replaced like you say.

[VespaGTS]

I just saw a Outback in the shop while I was geting an oil change. The Turbo Oil return line was cracked and dumped his oil while driving and seized the motor. $6k later new motor and lucky for this guy he had the extended warranty. Man that would suck.

 

So its not a bad idea if you are in there to have a look at the return line as well.

[Max Capacity]

The simple two bolt flange for the oil return hose to center section is a very common gasket if that's where your leak is coming from.

 

Just thinking, may be you might want to remove the turbo and make sure its in good shape or have it rebuilt...how many miles on it ?

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ do you have the service manual ?

[TheUnsungWar]

Pictures of the oil build up around the lines.

@Max I have already removed it. I wanted to check the turbo to see if it moved at all. Front part doesn't move. The back part barely moves. You already referred me to your guy. Still need to give him a call, but i don't think the it needs to be refurbished.

 

The bottom oil out line is where the seal is correct? I do have the book manual.

[Max Capacity]

Yes, a thin three gasket under that two bolt metal flange/pipe.

[TheUnsungWar]

The two coolant lines have a white residue in them. Do they need to be replaced? I don't know of a way to clean them.

[Max Capacity]

No that’s most likely surface oxidation. If there is was a large buildup of white globes that could be a coolant leak. Don’t need to clean that as it will come back.

[TheUnsungWar]

@Max Any idea on any "go to" areas to check for a coolant leak?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cleaning-up-my-05-lgt-267853.html

^Not updated yet but that is what one of the lines looked like outside of the turbo.

[Max Capacity]

I don't see any thing that looks like a coolant leak in the photo's. Cars will loose a little coolant over time, I top mine yearly. Not much but its part of the yearly checks.

 

 

You may want to follow the coolant hoses. One may have a weak spot if your using more coolant then normal.

 

 

Oh that coolant you think you see in the PCV system in cold weather is just moisture caused by condensation that doesn't get boiled out of the oil in cold weather. The engine doesn't get hot enough in cold weather.

[TheUnsungWar]

So I have to fill my "Engine Coolant Reservoir" (driver side front by the headlight) about once every two weeks. From what I understand from the book (CHILTON) you check the coolant level through this, correct?

[Max Capacity]

Correct.

 

About 2" off the bottom of that tank is the "full when cold" line. About 2" above that is the "full when hot" line. Pretty much since the mid 1980's you only add coolant to that tank for top it off. I do this yearly with my 86 Ford F150. It only dose about 300 miles a year now.

 

If your adding every two weeks, you should find a good repair shop and have them do a pressure test of the coolant system. They will be able to tell you where the leak is. You can fix it, they'll just charge you for the test

 

Or, May be Harbor Fright has a system tester you could buy.

[Max Capacity]

Other common place for coolant leak is the top seam on the radiator or the top nipple where the upper hose comes off. But those are pretty obvious.

 

My Gates water pump was dripping out the weep hole 20,000 miles after it was installed, but that too was pretty obvious. You could smell the coolant burn off as it hit the crossover exhaust pipe.

[TheUnsungWar]

Hmm, the top radiator hose I have looks to be in three pieces. Or is one piece with another in the middle. Is that common for these cars?

 

 

So this is what I found when I PEELED off the turbo oil out gasket. I took a copper brush and got off all the residue on the turbo. Does anybody have a part number for this and whether there is a better aftermarket product?

[Max Capacity]

Take that gasket to most any auto parts store, they'll have something like that.

 

 

The top hose is a one piece item, again any auto parts store will have one for about $15.00

 

Back in the turbo Honda day's lots of guys bought this for gaskets.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+ford+turbo+coupe+gasket+kit%2C+turbo&oq=1984+ford+turbo+coupe+gasket+kit%2C+turbo&aqs=chrome..69i57.15427j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

If that doesn't work, search for turbo gasket set, 1984 ford turbo coupe.

[TheUnsungWar]

The people working at autozone and advance know nothing around here. And sadly there isn't an Orielly's.

 

http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-38mm-2-bolt-ewg-gasket/

 

^Is this something different?

[TheUnsungWar]

Also do you know of anywhere to purchase the crush washers for the banjo bolts. The local dealership is charging 4.20 for each.

[Max Capacity]

the 38mm gave it away, that's for a waste gate. its different.

 

Is there a NAPA around search for the turbo coupe gasket set, it was $10.00 for

 

The dealership may also have the oil drain gasket or a Volvo dealer will have one too. That's a very common oil return flange.

[Max Capacity]

Those banjo washers are kind of special. Summit racing may have some but make sure they are the correct size.

 

Does your dealership have a on line parts ordering page, prices are lower there.

 

In the 4th Gen forum there is a thread with links to dealers to buy from.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243.html

 

In the last post or so Benny is pretty helpful if you need his service.

[TheUnsungWar]

The local dealership sells the gasket for $3.50 so that's nice.

[Max Capacity]

You may want to ask the manager of the Parts department if he can give you a discount on parts. Tell him how much you like the car and let him know you'll be happy to buy OEM parts from him instead of on line.

 

The worst he can say is no. Granted not all OEM parts are cheap, Like timing belt kit, but other pieces may be worth getting from them.

 

I just bought the AC idler pulley and OEM T'stat from my local dealer for the Aisin Timing belt kit I got for my Spec B. They give me a good discount.

[TheUnsungWar]

Hmm interesting. Never would have thought about that.

 

So this thread is just turning into everything. So before my possible turbo problems i had a CEL (cant give it because i dont remember) that would cause power to not be transferred to the wheels. I could increase the rpms but the car wouldn't move or it would be very sluggish. Found out it was either a dirty foot pedal sensor or the throttle body needed a cleaning.

 

So, since i have a lot off could i get some sort of guidqnce as to where the throttle body is? I have already cleaned the sensor and the code popped again.

[relative4]

Dealerships will always in my experience match online prices from parts.subaru.com. Specify them or a local competitor on the website to ensure beating MSRP.