New to the forum.

[ToastyOtis]

I know I’m probably posting this in the wrong section of the forum. I’m new to forums and I don’t really know how this works. I’m looking for some advice. I have an 07 legacy gt with a bad motor. I’m looking to buy new heads and get the bottom end inspected and replace whatever needs replacing. Can anyone on here tell me which heads will work with this motor? I believe it’s the ej255. I’ve heard that some of the ej20 heads are compatible. Which would be the best heads to replace the existing,and hopefully get some extra power with? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks everyone!

[relative4]

Generally, you don't replace the heads; you get them rebuilt. Can you provide more info on your situation? What happened to the engine? How are the shortblock and turbo?

[ToastyOtis]

Motor has a lot of miles on it and the exhaust valves or ports or something went bad and something else with the heads. I mentioned that am going to have The short block looked at and replace anything that needs to be replaced...rings etc. not sure about the turbo but I will be replacing that with a vf52. So the questions about how are the turbo and the shortblock are irrelevant. So,again my question is which are the best heads to replace the stock heads with if I am looking to get the best hp gains. Ej20 wrx sti? Ej25 wrx sti? I could be wrong but I doubt just getting the heads rebuilt would be the answer to my question. Which...again...was,which heads should I replace the stock heads with to get the most hp?

[Marvick08GT]

Not the best way to invite others in to help... The fact that you are talking about a vf52 and then want to swap heads for power is ridiculous. Rebuild the factory heads, they flow more than you need right now.

[JmP6889928]

It looks like you're on a journey to the poor house. Have your heads reconditioned, have the shortbock inspected and if there is ANYTHING major wrong, buy a short block, ARP head studs, OE gasket set, and put it back together.

It sounds like you have absolutely no idea about what you type. Being an ass will get you a lot here-a lot of silence.

These people know what they're talking about as many have gone through this and built their engine.

Come back a little nicer and see if it helps.

[ToastyOtis]

If I came across as an ass that wasn’t my intention. I’ve been told I can sound like a dick in text format. Anyways. Getting different heads was my idea because what I’ve been told is that they are just shot to hell. The vf52 turbo is what I was told to upgrade to for a better turbo that would give me more hp. I know slim to none about these motors but I’ve been doing some research about hybrid head swaps and was just wondering if that’s something I should consider. Sorry for being a douche. But if I was trying to get the most hps I could wouldn’t I do more than just getting the heads reconditioned. I mean once I have the motor torn apart I might as well do what I can,right?

[Max Capacity]

Let's start over.

 

Welcome to he Forum. Tell us where you live, that may help when we make recommendations.

 

relative4 and JmP are people your going to want to listen too.

 

A lot of members here have followed my recipe on how to do it right the first time. Read my "click here" link in my sig.

 

Read the sticky's at the top of the this forum and the tops two Tech Forum's.

 

Unless your heads are cracked or have damage from the cam bearings running out of oil they can be rebuilt.

 

quick list of what you need

 

New ej257 short block

engine gasket set for your year car

Cobb AP so one of the two Great Tuner's can send you a tune

ARP head studs

have your heads rebuilt by a good machine shop

Aisin timing belt kit

 

This may be a good read too, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-replacement-upgrade-suggestionsi-269621.html

[ToastyOtis]

Thanks for the info max. Alright starting over. I’m Ryan and I’m originally from NW NJ and I bounce around from there to Baltimore,to NE PA,and to D.C. all the time. Right now the car is in New Jerus. I’ll start listeneming to those two guys that already think I’m a dick. Lol. So I’ve read that there are two different EJ257 short blocks. Is that true,and is there a recommendation on which one to get?

[Marvick08GT]

Nobody thinks you're a dick.. I'm in MD, if you need any help or advice let me know. Like Max said, most here know what they are talking about. I am more of a lurker, but I am online here every day, as are most.

I am almost 400whp on a factory longblock ( just hit 155k) I am sure I will be upgrading soon, my tuner suggested rods and pistons. He said if I wanted to spend $$ the cams and springs would make power, but the factory heads flow great and make power.

[ToastyOtis]

I’m in md at the moment too. 400whp? That shit must be fun to drive! I’m looking to get 300-325 really. I’d rather not buy a new short block like max suggested but I will if I have to. The car had 1 owner and was never abused but is is burning oil like a mofo. I’ll defini get the heads rebuilt as suggested I guess I just figured replacing the heads would be best. Any suggestions on a machine shop to rebuild the heads?

[Max Capacity]

In NJ look up http://www.AZPinstalls.com The owner Mike has helped me and others out over the years. He got me my vf52 delivered to me in less than a day. You can trust what he will do for you.

For my ej257, I asked him to send me the oil pump he would use.

 

To the best of my knowledge, when you order a ej257 from Heuberger Subaru, (vendor on here ) you get the current version Subaru is making. They are about $1800 plus the gasket kit for your year car.

[baconbits]

Unless you dropped a valve or starved the heads of oil and scored the cam journals, get them cleaned, decked, rebuilt with new valve guides, seals, reuse your springs and retainers, get valves lapped or replace as necessary, and put it all back together.

 

Or just take the car to an independent shop who can go through with you what it's going to take top to bottom (or side to side really) to get it running right.

 

You might want to hold off on the VF52 because any head and bottom end work is going to cost a lot more than you're anticipating if you're not familiar with these cars/engines. A new short block which should be good for 300-325 (with a good tune) on the stock pistons, but it's going to be like Max said, $1800 plus ~$350 for the gasket set, plus freight shipping, plus $600-1000 in head work, plus labor unless you can do it yourself. Anticipate another $500 for ancillary stuff like random sensors, vacuum and coolant lines, new spark plugs, oil, coolant, etc.

 

Just FYI, last I looked, new heads were $1100/set if I remember right, empty. Add in valves at $30/ea, springs, retainers, valve guides and seals, etc. They are a last resort new. Look for used and have them rebuilt if you need to.

[ToastyOtis]

Thanks,bacon. You guys are on point. I get my questions answered before I have a chance to ask.

[Max Capacity]

Thanks,bacon. You guys are on point. I get my questions answered before I have a chance to ask.

 

It's not like we haven't been through this more the once. Most of us on here know what we're talking about.

[ToastyOtis]

I know,man. Just wanted to thank you guys. Looking around now for a local shop in Baltimore to rebuild the heads. I’m pretty stoked to bring this car back to life. My dad bought it brand new in 07 and I just didn’t want to see the thing go to the junk yard. It’s still in beautiful shape. Next time I’m up north I’ll take some pictures so you guys can see it. It might be over a decade old but it’s mint. He took really good care of it.

[Marvick08GT]

Agile Automotive is in Forest Hill (north of Baltimore) Hill has been incredible.

[JmP6889928]

I know,man. Just wanted to thank you guys. Looking around now for a local shop in Baltimore to rebuild the heads. I’m pretty stoked to bring this car back to life. My dad bought it brand new in 07 and I just didn’t want to see the thing go to the junk yard. It’s still in beautiful shape. Next time I’m up north I’ll take some pictures so you guys can see it. It might be over a decade old but it’s mint. He took really good care of it.

 

If the car is in excellent physical shape, then why not learn about it yourself and do the work? You can find all the help you need on these forums and by purchasing a Haynes manual and reading vacation pics, and youtube. There are threads on here that will tell you what to do every step of the way.

 

Once you do the job yourself, then you know exactly what you have and what's been done. Not to mention, you'll save a fortune in actual labor costs.

 

I'm sure you could ask for some help from local LGT members and have at least one or two stop over when you're in critical mode along the way. This is a great community and people go out of their way to help other people.

 

Give it a chance, take your time, don't be afraid to ask questions, and learn your car and it's components. Once you learn more about it, you'll be more confident in your abilities for whatever comes along.

 

You'll never regret it.

[Max Capacity]

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

That will get you started.

[ToastyOtis]

I’ve been thinking about doing the work by myself in my spare time. I have to figure out a way to get the car from jersey to Baltimore. I have triple A,so I’d have to trick them in to towing it somehow. Sometimes they won’t tow it if it’s not registered or insured. The car also needs sway bar links,bushings,and a ball joint.that I can do for sure. I just found a ten piece kit on eBay for about $90. Here’s the link

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112774092403

Has anyone ever used this? It seems really cheap. Would you guys trust something like this?

[Max Capacity]

That stuff is for a outback...?

 

Moog end links and ball joints are cheap for most any auto parts store.

[ToastyOtis]

That stuff is for a outback...?

 

At the top it says “select vehicle” LGT is in the list of vehicles though. Same price as listed for outback. That car must be the default.

[ToastyOtis]

Another thing with the car is that the check engine light is on. Something to do with the EVAP system that my local shop hasn’t been able to figure out. Is this a problem that anyone else has ran in to?

[Max Capacity]

Yes, I think BarManBean or JmP6889928 may have info on that.

 

Send them a PM.

 

The theory is, it's caused by always topping the tank when you put gas in the tank. I've stopped doing that.

[baconbits]

I've topped off the tank for the last 60k miles driven... at least if topping off is filling it until the handle hits the auto shutoff. I don't have a check engine light, FWIW.

 

I'd poke around in the engine bay and make sure there isn't a loose vacuum line for any of the evap stuff.

[Max Capacity]

No topping it off mean's filling it till you can see gas when you pull the nozzle out. You keep pulling the nozzle handle till gas spills out of the fill tube.

 

Filling until the nozzle auto shuts off is what's suggested you do. That's what most people do. Those of us that kind of OCD want to get as much as possible in the tank before the price goes up again.