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Rusted Recall Brake Line Failed


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The purpose of the joint is to prevent the leak from a total drain on the system. It is a safety feature of it. The little drop of fluid that you’ll see will stop once that joint left in there is empty to avoid total loss fluid of the system. I know because my brake was left 2 days in the parking lot and never emptied the system.

 

Does anyone know what is the purpose of 4 way joint cube/box thing? Currently is attached under the car (with rusted lines going in and out). I was going to remove it and run one line straight from splicing under the seat into the rear right caliper. But is it needed for anything? I don't mind picking one up and attaching it like @All_talk did on his car under the seat.

 

@edgemoulic - is this the safety feature that you speaking of? That 4 way joint connector thing? I apologize but it is not super clear to me.

 

Thank you.

 

Big plans for this weekend to get it all replaced.

 

Also more experience members how does one tags someone on these boards - Typical @followed by the name seems not to do the trick. Thanks.

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Yes it is. Need to do a separate line on each side. So that to avoid problem down the road. Subaru didn’t put that there without a purpose but I took off mine and the brake system runs well without problems.
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  • 9 months later...
I'm gonna do this as well before I end up with a ruptured line. Recall was done before I bought my car and when I inspected it recently it looked like crap coated in wax. Any chance you could post a list of what you used? It would save myself and others some time putting together what we would need.

 

Thanks

-Dave

I’m in same boat, 06 Outback with leaking brake lines. In 2014 they sprayed the car and will not cover anything due to time since.

I see you bypassed the “4 way joint connectors”. Are these just a pass through or do they meter or have check valve in them? Nice work.

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I’m in same boat, 06 Outback with leaking brake lines. In 2014 they sprayed the car and will not cover anything due to time since.

I see you bypassed the “4 way joint connectors”. Are these just a pass through or do they meter or have check valve in them? Nice work.

 

Read post #53.

 

It's a pass through.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Read post #53.

 

It's a pass through.

Thanks, just ordered the line, m 10x1 fittings and some stainless w/ rubber clamps to hold it all in place. Assume you ran it under carpet near the edge where seat comes down and then followed the fuel lines on the driver side using same hole/grommet for RR speed sensor.

 

Debating on covering it with pieces of rubber windshield washer hose.

 

Im sure the dealer would charge over $1000 for this, dropping the tank.

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I’m in same boat, 06 Outback with leaking brake lines. In 2014 they sprayed the car and will not cover anything due to time since.

 

Im sure the dealer would charge over $1000 for this, dropping the tank.

 

My 2006 Outback XT also had the recall done in 2014 (the second part of the recall, increasing the wax coverage supposedly). When the lines failed around a year and a half ago, I called SOA. It took multiple calls and elevating to a supervisor, but eventually SOA agreed to split the cost of the repair. The dealer cost to drop the tank and replace the lines was around $1700 of which SOA covered half.

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My 2006 Outback XT also had the recall done in 2014 (the second part of the recall, increasing the wax coverage supposedly). When the lines failed around a year and a half ago, I called SOA. It took multiple calls and elevating to a supervisor, but eventually SOA agreed to split the cost of the repair. The dealer cost to drop the tank and replace the lines was around $1700 of which SOA covered half.
[emoji15] So the lines were replaced from the block to the flex lines and how far forward?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Edited by whitexc
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My 2006 Outback XT also had the recall done in 2014 (the second part of the recall, increasing the wax coverage supposedly). When the lines failed around a year and a half ago, I called SOA. It took multiple calls and elevating to a supervisor, but eventually SOA agreed to split the cost of the repair. The dealer cost to drop the tank and replace the lines was around $1700 of which SOA covered half.

 

I also made multiple calls. SOA would cover part of the repair but would not tell me how much until dealer gave me a price. I would have to tow to dealer since line failed an no pedal. They would not even give me a range of cost.

 

Ended up doing it myself.

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Thanks, just ordered the line, m 10x1 fittings and some stainless w/ rubber clamps to hold it all in place. Assume you ran it under carpet near the edge where seat comes down and then followed the fuel lines on the driver side using same hole/grommet for RR speed sensor.

 

Debating on covering it with pieces of rubber windshield washer hose.

 

Im sure the dealer would charge over $1000 for this, dropping the tank.

 

So I ordered from the dealer, nuts and bolts to replace the rusted ones holding the plastic covers on the fuel tank. I also ordered the block that the lines originally went through. Could have used two barrels since this is just a pass through. ~ $14

 

I also purchased the m10x1 fittings and 3/16 v 25' NiCopp brake line and fluid from local autoparts store. ~70

 

l ordered a Titan 51535 3/16 double flare tool and 3/16 stainless Steel clamps w rubber insulator. ~ $56

 

I managed to run the left rear brake line over the front of the tank by removing the two access panels under the seat. I drilled two holes near the covers and attached the above mentioned clamps via stainless machine screws and nuts/ lock washers underneath. I also put the line through a 18" rubber hose that I located between the access covers (just in case something rubs).

 

I secured the line where I could with the stainless clamps and self taping screws.

 

Bleed the system a few times and knock on wood, no leaks and car stops again.

 

I also sprayed everything with fluid film before I buttoned it up. Damn rust belt.

 

This site is great, looking at all solutions. Thanks.

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Edited by Mwende
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[emoji15] So the lines were replaced from the block to the flex lines and how far forward?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

I should know but I actually am not sure...I was under the impression they were replaced all the way to the front but I've forgotten what they told me and only visually checked the rear section that was visible and where the fluid had been visibly leaking.

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When the dealer replaced mine, they replaced from the front distribution @ ABS to the rear wheel hard line. Said it was the only way to do it "correctly". (Use dealer parts for correct plug and play fitment) They replaced the lines because when they did the recall, they only sprayed the block not the two frame contact points. Edited by Marvick08GT
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  • 8 months later...

While I was under the 09 Spec B today flushing the brake fluid, I looked at the block, it had the recall done, but I do spray that block with Fluid Film once a year.  

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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