islandborn Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Here's what they put in mine - for ideas. JE Forged Pistons King Bearings Manley H-Tuff Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts 2012 STi Crankshaft IAG Machined heads JE Headgaskets NGK Iridium One Step Colder 2309 Spark plugs GSC P-D Intake/Exhaust Valves 33mm (+1mm) Gates Timing belt kit w/water pump ARP Head Stud kit 2012 Sti Cams 11mm Sti Oil Pump Injector Dynamics 1000 fuel injectors IAG Billet Aluminum CNC Top Feed TGV Deletes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copyboy311 Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 So, the ole girl pooped the bed last Friday night on the way home from work... It had been starting to idle real low upon clutch in and then finally dying on clutch in. I think the wrist pin got loose enough to cause drag on the piston. It's not locked up yet, but isn't drivewble anymore. It was getting way too hard to stay out of boost anyway. It was on a really cold night and people seemed to want to honk and flip me off instead of helping, while I pushed my car by myself down a busy 3 lane road. I've only had it for 9 months too... Sorry you had such a bad experience. With your car, you were just set up to fail. With an owner who didn't change the timing belt and have it break, who knows what happened after that, not to mention "the kid" you bought it from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) Here's what they put in mine - for ideas. JE Forged Pistons King Bearings Manley H-Tuff Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts 2012 STi Crankshaft IAG Machined heads JE Headgaskets NGK Iridium One Step Colder 2309 Spark plugs GSC P-D Intake/Exhaust Valves 33mm (+1mm) Gates Timing belt kit w/water pump ARP Head Stud kit 2012 Sti Cams 11mm Sti Oil Pump Injector Dynamics 1000 fuel injectors IAG Billet Aluminum CNC Top Feed TGV Deletes Thanks islandborn!! Did you upgrade the injectors for corn? Did you need to upgrade the valves to compensate for the Sti cams? Ugh, I forgot about the TGV deletes... Did you get the IAG stage 2 block? Is it just a stock water pump or an Sti pump? Sorry you had such a bad experience. With your car, you were just set up to fail. With an owner who didn't change the timing belt and have it break, who knows what happened after that, not to mention "the kid" you bought it from? I appreciate it! I knew this was a crap shoot with the prior issues, but there aren't too many around and I got it for $8,500. I figure I will have a similar amount of money into it that I would have if I had gotten a nice stock GT from the get go. Plus, this way I get it built more the way I want it and it will be new enough that I can have fun with the gas pedal and not worry so much about things. I tend to try and look at the bright side. Edited February 5, 2019 by stewdogg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Thanks islandborn!! Did you upgrade the injectors for corn? Did you need to upgrade the valves to compensate for the Sti cams? Ugh, I forgot about the TGV deletes... Did you get the IAG stage 2 block? Is it just a stock water pump or an Sti pump? I had mine built by AWDTuning. They too sell Stage 1 and Stage 2 Blocks (mine is their base Stage 2) They built the whole thing - we had many conversations about what goes where and what is needed. I drive it daily (30k/year) so I didn't want anything "rough". The injectors and pump had to be upgraded because I run corn. 1000s are perfect. I am looking to switch into an AEM pump tho... DW has started to drop in reputation - first their injectors, now their pumps. Mine is fine so far, but I have 120K on it so its getting time to switch it out. There is a great DIY thread here that I followed to swap out the pumps. Pretty cool and easy. If you will stay with normal gas - stockers are fine....but it doesn't hurt to upgrade them - easy plug and play. The valves were upgraded simply for the power. Stock water pump. This can get all out of hand if you aren't careful. What you want vs what you need can be tough. To give you an idea - my whole build - engine, custom FMIC, custom TM oil cooler, clutch, and tunes put me upwards of about $15k. An engine build alone will run about $8-9k. Thats new short block engine ($3k), all the little adds, and the swap out labor. Tunes run about $500 per tune as well - 4 hours work. Now all of this is by a top notch crew. You of course can save a lot by knowledgeable friends and access to a shop - which I did not have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copyboy311 Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 Not sure if you're looking for someone to do this work, but I've heard good things about this place if you are: http://quantum-performance.com All Subarus pictured on their homepage. They're a couple hours from Madison near Port Washington, but if you need the job done right, you might have to look around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 I had mine built by AWDTuning. They too sell Stage 1 and Stage 2 Blocks (mine is their base Stage 2) They built the whole thing - we had many conversations about what goes where and what is needed. I drive it daily (30k/year) so I didn't want anything "rough". The injectors and pump had to be upgraded because I run corn. 1000s are perfect. I am looking to switch into an AEM pump tho... DW has started to drop in reputation - first their injectors, now their pumps. Mine is fine so far, but I have 120K on it so its getting time to switch it out. There is a great DIY thread here that I followed to swap out the pumps. Pretty cool and easy. If you will stay with normal gas - stockers are fine....but it doesn't hurt to upgrade them - easy plug and play. The valves were upgraded simply for the power. Stock water pump. This can get all out of hand if you aren't careful. What you want vs what you need can be tough. To give you an idea - my whole build - engine, custom FMIC, custom TM oil cooler, clutch, and tunes put me upwards of about $15k. An engine build alone will run about $8-9k. Thats new short block engine ($3k), all the little adds, and the swap out labor. Tunes run about $500 per tune as well - 4 hours work. Now all of this is by a top notch crew. You of course can save a lot by knowledgeable friends and access to a shop - which I did not have. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks island, I appreciate the conversation and knowledge on the subject! I will be doing all the labor (aside from the heads) my self, so I will save a little cash with that. I think I'm going to go with the stage 2 IAG block and go from there. I would like to keep the engine around the $6,000-7,000 range. I won't count the down pipe and sway bar bits in my engine build, so that will help a bit with the bottom line. The one thing I'm unsure of is if the Sti cams are worth the $800 buy in? I hear people say it helps with mid range power, but how much and does it provide any more longevity to the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 Not sure if you're looking for someone to do this work, but I've heard good things about this place if you are: http://quantum-performance.com All Subarus pictured on their homepage. They're a couple hours from Madison near Port Washington, but if you need the job done right, you might have to look around. Thanks for the link! I will look at the eye candy they have there. My step dad has a 4 post lift in his big garage and has many years experience with Subies. He is in Waukesha too. I have a lift in town too, but can't leave my car on it for that long, so it will go to his house for a month or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 STi cams.... Are they worth it? Well, if you are going with a full build - why not. They can only help. They wont hurt. It would not affect "longevity". All they really do is allow the engine to open up a bit more and hold on a bit longer. However, if you don't, you prob will be forever kicking yourself. Now, its not worth it in the sense of if you were only doing that mod. Meaning that the gains would not be "worth it" based on the cost and labor of the part alone plus a new tune. That would prob run about $1500-$2000 - for a bit of a stronger top end? nope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 Another thought... you said you were not going to do the heads. IAG did mine. Apparently, mine were the first they ever really did in shop - so they now have experience! lol. Heck, you might even chat with them about putting it all together in a sense and send it all to you in one box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 The one thing I'm unsure of is if the Sti cams are worth the $800 buy in? I hear people say it helps with mid range power, but how much and does it provide any more longevity to the engine? I think I paid less than $100 for my STI cams/springs... So, the parts cost is relatively low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 I think I paid less than $100 for my STI cams/springs... So, the parts cost is relatively low.You should replace the valve springs while you can as well, upgrade to a set of aftermarket sti springs. That will help in higher rpms to keep the valves from floating. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 7, 2019 Author Share Posted February 7, 2019 STi cams.... Are they worth it? Well, if you are going with a full build - why not. They can only help. They wont hurt. It would not affect "longevity". All they really do is allow the engine to open up a bit more and hold on a bit longer. However, if you don't, you prob will be forever kicking yourself. Now, its not worth it in the sense of if you were only doing that mod. Meaning that the gains would not be "worth it" based on the cost and labor of the part alone plus a new tune. That would prob run about $1500-$2000 - for a bit of a stronger top end? nope. Haha, thanks, that was just the kind of enabling arm twisting I needed. Another thought... you said you were not going to do the heads. IAG did mine. Apparently, mine were the first they ever really did in shop - so they now have experience! lol. Heck, you might even chat with them about putting it all together in a sense and send it all to you in one box. I was thinking I should talk to them as well. Thanks again! I think I paid less than $100 for my STI cams/springs... So, the parts cost is relatively low. Where did you find them for that price... ebay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 STI cams can be found often on NASIOC - thats where I found mine. Ebay, maybe even local subaru groups on facebook would be a good hunting ground. People are always parting out STIs and nobody really "wants" OE cams when they can upgrade them. Yeah, I wouldn't spend the coin buying "new" ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 STI cams can be found often on NASIOC - thats where I found mine. Ebay, maybe even local subaru groups on facebook would be a good hunting ground. People are always parting out STIs and nobody really "wants" OE cams when they can upgrade them. Yeah, I wouldn't spend the coin buying "new" ones I bought mine on NASIOC. I've heard folks say that you just check with you local subie shop/tuner as it is speculated that they have them laying around form the STI folk who upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaddocks Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 I bought mine on NASIOC. I've heard folks say that you just check with you local subie shop/tuner as it is speculated that they have them laying around form the STI folk who upgrade.I bought mine on NASIOC as well, along with new valve springs. Stock turbo is still the hp constraint at higher rpm, but the cams will provide growing room with a larger one. Other comments... Recommend having your heads rebuilt or freshened up if you're going through the trouble of building up a nice short block. My tuner said I'd need to upgrade to larger injectors (and fuel pump) with an 18g or 20g...ymmv. I used a $55 diy delete kit and die grinder, very happy with results. Take your BOM estimate and multiply by 1.3 to cover other costs (e.g. break-in tune for ~$150) and unknowns. My $.02 Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 (edited) Alright, I have had a heck of a time trying to get the NASIOC website to work for me. I finally found that Google Chrome works and nothing else I found does. I have enough posts to put up a WTB for the Sti cams. Can I use any year Sti cams or do I need 2008+ cams? Also, I remember reading that the clutch fork is a weak point, so I would like to change that out while I'm in there. Anyone have a link to the upgraded fork? Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it! I have fixed plenty of vehicles over the years, but never built one, so the help is very welcomed with this unique beast. Edited February 14, 2019 by stewdogg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 Yes to the cams. Only 08+ work. Clutch fork: http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru-wrx/velox-billet-clutch-fork-2015-wrx-mt#.XGWKVzNKi1s You want to replace the knob too. : http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru-wrx/drivetrain/clutches/velox-billet-clutch-fork-pivot-2013-ft86#.XGWKqzNKi1s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Thanks islandborn, you are awesome!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Alright, I have a Uhaul car carrier(flatbed)/pickup truck set to go for this Saturday. I will be hauling the ole girl to my mom/step dads to get this fun started. Islandborn (or anyone with experience) how did your rockers and lifters look when you did your rebuilds? Need to replace any/all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Alright, I have a Uhaul car carrier(flatbed)/pickup truck set to go for this Saturday. I will be hauling the ole girl to my mom/step dads to get this fun started. Islandborn (or anyone with experience) how did your rockers and lifters look when you did your rebuilds? Need to replace any/all? Ej25 doesn't have either of those. Lobes from the cam ride on the buckets to open the valves. Definitely want to double check your clearance when you torque everything back down and you may need to replace buckets to get the right clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Ej25 doesn't have either of those. Lobes from the cam ride on the buckets to open the valves. Definitely want to double check your clearance when you torque everything back down and you may need to replace buckets to get the right clearance. Thanks! Yeah, when I looked up lifters it came up with the blocks/buckets and I was wondering if they wear much normally. I guess with having 130,000 miles, there might be a chance they have some wear. On another note, I'm getting sick of the snow and cold! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 A couple quick questions. Is the BNR 18g turbo build the only option for turbos for the 5th gen? Is there a DIY turbo upgrade option for the V54 to 18g? What size are the stock fuel injectors (couldn't find it through the search)? If I go with the 18g do I need upgraded injectors/fuel pump to feed it? Money, money, money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 A couple quick questions. Is the BNR 18g turbo build the only option for turbos for the 5th gen? Is there a DIY turbo upgrade option for the V54 to 18g? What size are the stock fuel injectors (couldn't find it through the search)? If I go with the 18g do I need upgraded injectors/fuel pump to feed it? Money, money, money... If you are sticking with 93 octane, you can use 725 cc injectors. And yes the bnr 18g/20g or tomioka 20g are the available setups. Both will need injector upgrades as stock injectors are pretty close to maxed out with the stock turbo already. Fuel pump is a good upgrade to do as well but not necessary, unless you are starving for fuel now. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 I believe stock fuel injectors are 550cc. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 In general, one has to machine the compressor housing for a bigger turbo wheel. (I am not 100% sure about an 18g) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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