Spitballing ideas for upgrading my '05 Legacy GT

[Max Capacity]

Things have cooled down a bit around so I have time to start working on this.

 

I'm having two problems if some of you could point me in the right direction. I've tried doing searches for both of these subjects and having trouble finding where to start.

 

1. Is there a list of tuners by state. I'm in West Michigan and would like to find someone close by if possible.

 

2. A good starting point for the open source tune option. I can do the stuff, I just can't find out where to start reading to do the learning.

 

Thanks

 

 

This is not Honda-Tech, no list of Tuners. There are two recommended Tuners, www.tuningalliance.com email Mike at Tuningalliance@gmail.com

 

Dave of Cryoperformance.com

 

Most of us use Cobb AP because we're not real experts with a laptop and the software.

 

The Tuning Forum has as sticky up top, read that.

[gkinslow]

If you are determined to go open source and do things yourself, the tuning subforum would be a great place to start learning.

[Max Capacity]

You'll find the Tuners don't like spending the large amount of time it takes to walk someone through/teach them what they should know. They don't charge for time, hence they are not making money doing that.

[Rhiadon]

Somehow I missed that there was a tuning subforum. That's the exact kind of thing I was looking for. Thank you.

 

Yeah, I'm not expecting someone to teach me. I can learn this stuff myself. I write automotive firmware for a living so I can grok this stuff. I just need pointed to the information.

[Max Capacity]

http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/tuning-84.html

 

This guy is pretty good too.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/covertrussians-05-lgt-build-thread-218363.html

 

 

Lots of help here if you know what and who to ask.

[Rhiadon]

Yeah I'm also perplexed by this.

 

EDIT: we don't think you're lying - but experience suggests that the engine should have failed many tens of thousands of miles ago. If you bought the car and it had that stuff on there and you've been good for 100k then perhaps it already has a Stage 2 tune on it (you need a Stage 2 tune for downpipe).

 

Sorry I didn't answer this.

 

I bought the car new in '05 and did all mods myself with a friend. Maybe I just have one of the those "ringer" blocks that's indestructible. We didn;t do a stage 2 tune or anything. We *might* have disabled the up pipe related DTC, that sounds familiar but this was about 10 years ago now. The only problem I've ever had with the car is occasionally I get a DTC for a throttle position issue related to a bum wire or connector.

 

I now have a knock sensor issue but it's because when I had the clutch replaced recently the guy didn't hook the knock sensor back up and I've just not cleared the DTC again.

 

I had not heard that I should have had an issue up until this thread. So this was all news to me. I'm babying the car now until I can get the tune taken care of. In the process of getting the ball rolling right now with Tuning Alliance.

 

I need to get me a 3 port electronic boost controller, which is apparently the next step.

[05MNLGT]

i think there is a lot of knowledge with this group. but as it's been pointed out, goals are needed to assess the upgrades needed to get to those goals. otherwise you're throwing money into the fire. hp vs handling. personally i went with handling upgrades first because more hp without handling is risky. mine is a summer DD and track days.

 

1) your car use: DD / DD-track days / track only?

[Rhiadon]

I'm honestly not certain what my power goals are because I'm trying to gauge a reasonable number. My first inkling is that 250 wheel horse power is a pretty good number. 250 crank is pretty fun and I'm some amount higher than that but I've never dynoed the car. I just know the butt dyno likes it. Also basing things on whatever the '18 Sti makes. It was fun to drive. I'm guessing it makes slightly less than 250 whp. Is that number a reasonable thing?

 

The other thing that isn't really performance related (at least only tangentially) is the sound. Boxer engines sound amazing with a louder exhaust. So I want to do something there if only for the sound. But if I'm going to do that, I might as well go for performance as well, right? So I'm thinking a nice cat-back or even fell exhaust replacement after the downpipe.

 

As far as handling, it's a daily driver, but there's no reason to not corner like a fiend. I think the cornering is where I want it because the Perrin sway bars really took away a ton of body roll. The thing still squats like a dog when taking off though and that would be a nice thing to fix if I could do so without lowering the car too much. I've been told coil-overs are likely the way to go here to get near stock ride height. I'd rather not do that as I've got brand new shocks/struts in there. So a good stiff spring set with moderate drop would probably be fine.

 

Am I painting a better picture. I'm trying to fill in and narrow down my goals as I get more data.

[Rhiadon]

Also, I've complicated things on my own recently by introducing the idea of getting a Forester of the same vintage. The reason being we have a 1 year old baby boy and such a thing would make it easier to get him around and some stuff. We're not a "haul the house with us" family but the extra space would be convenient. But doing so, I basically want my Legacy GT in the Forester with all the same goals, such as they are. This likely means auto to manual conversion of a Forester XT (because manual XTs are unicorns)

[05MNLGT]

Also, I've complicated things on my own recently by introducing the idea of getting a Forester of the same vintage. The reason being we have a 1 year old baby boy and such a thing would make it easier to get him around and some stuff. We're not a "haul the house with us" family but the extra space would be convenient. But doing so, I basically want my Legacy GT in the Forester with all the same goals, such as they are. This likely means auto to manual conversion of a Forester XT (because manual XTs are unicorns)

 

honestly, until you get things sorted out in your head, this all might be pointless. just my 2cents.

 

GT to performance GT

or

FXT to STI FXT

 

not sure FXT to GT makes sense as FXT are STI. could be wrong. folks way smarter than me on here.

[Rhiadon]

I think you are right from what I've seen about the FXT. Parts from the STI bolt up and people have done it. I've not found anything showing someone doing the same thing with an LGT.

 

I've got a couple of nearby FXT autos that I might go look at this weekend. That will likely clear things up in my head.

[Ezra1234]

Be careful and don't let the Subaru bug bite you to hard or you will end up with the following dilemma:

Event: Dyno-12-2017 Grandpa’s Toy

Location: Auburn CA

Ambient Temp: 76 F

Elevation: 1366 ft

Weather: Sunny

 

Car: 2005 Legacy GT

Tuner: Travis (Snail Racing) & Tony (M-45 automotive)

Dyno Info: Dyno-Jet, STP correction

Transmission: Custom Jegs TH400 Transmission

9 inch Ford Rear end (2 wheel drive)-Final Gear Ratio: 4:56

Peak HP at RPM: 26lbs of boost=502whp, 458 ft lbs of tq.- 31lbs of boost=612whp, 537 ft.lbs of tq- 38lbs of boost=735whp, 641 ft.lbs of torque

Baseline: Stock 2013 STi: 220 whp / 237 wtrq

Target Boost: 38 psi tapering to 20 psi

Target AFR: 11.7

Fuel: E85 (85% blend)

Weight: 2935lbs.

 

Engine/Power Modifications:

Outfront Motorsports V-4-Closed Deck Block

Perrin Heavy Duty Motor & Transmission Mounts

Cosworth HP Oil Pump

Crawford High Pressure water pump

CP 8:4 pistons

DW 2000cc top feed injectors & fuel rail

Radium Engineering Surge Tank

3-Walbro 455 LPH Staged Fuel pumps

Manley Turbo Tuff I-beam rods

Custom Head work, Porting & valve job and O-Ringed

ARP 1/2" head studs, ARP bolts and studs used throughout the entire motor

Pinned King Bearings

Manley Billet crank

ATI Crank Pulley

All running gear was balanced

Crower 272 cams

Supertech valves and valve springs

Comp Turbo Twin Scroll Turbo-CT4x-6065 or 6470-3bb unit (running at full boost 65lbs of boost)-current motor only uses the 6065 turbo and 38lbs of boost

M & M Custom 3” Down Pipe w/ Dougs 3” electric collector

M & M Custom 3” Exhaust, Up-Pipe T4 mount, dual dump tubes w/twin 50mm Turbosmart wastegates

ETS Custom 4” Cool Air System (modified by M&M)

TGV Deletes

8mm Phenolic Spacers

ETS FMIC w/ 4" core

PTFE fuel system

CF Oversized Radiator, w/built-in oil cooler

Cobb AP V3 running- Speed Density

 

Driveline Modifications:

KYB shocks & Struts

Rallytek Springs

Rallytek Sway Bars

AVO End Links

All bushings on car have been replaced with Polyurethane bushings

 

Wheels & Brakes

EBC Rotors

Subaru Special four piston calipers

Special Compound Hawk Brake Pads

Motul High Temp Brake Fluid

RPF1-Custom Enkei Racing Rims

Toyo Red Dot High Performance Tires

 

Keep your build simple,first, make sure your engine is in great shape, no leaking head gaskets, compression is good, no blow by,etc... Once your assured the engine is in very good shape you can move on to the brakes (most important, get some EBC rotors), sway bars, shocks, VF52, GS top mount intercooler. GS up-pipe & crossover pipe on your stock exhaust, a nice set of mufflers, modify the stock air box to breathe better, add the K&N Filter. You will make about 290whp to 320whp and about 290 ft lbs of torque. Make absolutely sure that you get the best tune-up you can from the most reputable tuner in your area. By the way, I have many of the parts in great shape that I am referring to in the above scenario, just in case your interested? What ever you do, don't do what we are doing! We just purchased a Willets Billet block from Australia. As our power goals are over 1000whp and 875 ft.lbs of torque. My wife doesn't ask about the car anymore, she just shakes her head, so be careful! Oh, if I didn't mention it this car is not a daily driver and is being built to run the 1/4 mile somewhere in the 7 second range!

[Wasted Potential]

I don't think I've seen anyone achieve over 300whp on repeated different dynos with stock pump and injectors. Max hit 280/300 which seems hard to be bettered.

[Rhiadon]

Wow!!!

 

Yeah that's way overkill for what I want. No worries of that happening for me.

 

The most involved thing I might do is the 6 speed upgrade with the DCCD. Everything else will be bolt on parts to satisfy the butt dyno and my ears. I don't need much to get there it seems.

[Rhiadon]

I have the knock sensor code that seems to be persistent and I can't get it to clear. it's P0328. This DTC was set right after a new clutch install, which was not done by me.

 

I think the knock sensor was not reconnected after the mechanic put everything back together after the clutch install. The car did run like it was in limp mode. After replacing the sensor and getting it at least very close to the correct angle (not sure why that matters actually, but it's in the vacation pictures) I still have the code, but the car is definitely *not* in limp mode. It feels like it did before the clutch install. I borrowed a cheapo DTC tool to clear it and it will not clear the code.

 

Am I missing something about this code? Is it possible/likely that this reader will not actually clear it? Is it possible that a VAG-COM will allow me to clear it? I need one anyway for open source tuning.

[Max Capacity]

I don't think I've seen anyone achieve over 300whp on repeated different dynos with stock pump and injectors. Max hit 280/300 which seems hard to be bettered.

 

My numbers were on a heart breaker Mustang dyno.

 

My set up is about ready for its timing belt to be replaced. Today getting off one highway onto another one I dropped it into 3rd gear and went WOT, still pulls as hard in 4th gear as it did 100,000 miles ago.

 

Still have stock injectors that came in the car. Have put a AEM320 pump in.

 

Have to say again, the car is to much fun to drive. Last Thursday night on the drive to VT, after filling the tank, after about 45 minutes at 70mph or so, the dash read 27.6mpg.

 

Big thanks to my Tuner TA.