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Brake pad and rotor change


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I know I'm late to the game, but 3 year 36,000 warranty on the brakes.

 

Is a 15 the same, "From the 2016 Legacy/Outback Warranty & Maintenance Guide you should have received with your new Legacy, page 4:"

 

Wear Item Limited Warranty

WEAR ITEM COVERAGE is 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Items covered are brake pad/shoe linings, clutch linings, and wiper blades.

 

Got that from another thread in this forum. Post 30

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-brake-job-6th-gen-250086.html

 

 

 

I imagine it is since my 2010 and 2006 both had the same wear items covered.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 3 months later...

Just finished rear pad replacement and aside from having to address the EPB, its a standard brake job.

 

For the Electronic Parking Brake bit...

Disconnect negative terminal from the battery, remove the connector from the bottom of the Parking brake actuator ASSY.

(see image below)

 

Now... Depressing (turning-in) the piston to allow for the thicker new pads.

You can buy special tools as discussed previously:

Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4?pf_rd_p=d1f45e03-8b73-4c9a-9beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=DB5D94WNGH5VQ7F4F8A4

 

Lisle 28600 Disc Brake Piston Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28600-Disc-Brake-Piston/dp/B0002SQUFY/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1538312744&sr=1-4&keywords=lisle+28600+disc+brake+piston+tool

 

I have a hard time spending money (yes, even $10) on a single purpose tool for a very infrequent (IMHO) task.

Using needle nose pliers, I was able to rotate the piston into the home position.

The manual isn't very visual so I made a video of me turning it in on the Right Rear EPB.

Yes it's clumsy as I'm a righty and trying to film at the same time.

You should still be able to get the idea.

 

After the piston is rotated in fully (it will bottom-out) you just need to give a brief gentle squeeze (using a standard caliper compress tool) to fully seat it.

 

Re-installing the EPB connector seemed to take quite a bit of force to seat properly and insure the locking tab engages.

(possibly to prevent moisture into the contacts area?)

There have been posts regarding brake issues that were the result of this not being done properly.

 

After completing the installation (and torquing the guide pins per spec), pumping the brakes to insure proper function and no leaks, took the old girl for a spin to properly seat the new pads.

 

Checked EPB and Hill Assist for proper operation.

All performed as advertised.

 

Hope this helps the next DIYr.

2063244424_EPBConnector.jpg.dba27f25036ff48c737db45320d210a1.jpg

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Take your car for a 2nd opinion somewhere else.

 

This, so much this

 

I just had my wife's 2003 Subaru in for pol change and they wanted to replace my exhaust cat backwards... all because of a rotted gasket between the cat and the mid pipe and the mid pipe and the muffler. Subaru dealer wanted $900....

 

ordered me up 2 gaskets and voilà, problem solved

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