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Fumoto on Gen6’s


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Considering throwing a Fumoto in the new Subie when I get it. What are you impressions of it considering the Leg rides a little lower than my Outback? Asking for trouble?

 

A search on Fumoto shows some returns about because being worried someone’s going to screw with their car. I didn’t consider vandalism.

 

Probably would get the short nipple version for ease of draining. But with the 3.6 I would have to climb under anyway.

 

Other option was to get a magnetic drain plug.

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First time post here in the legacy forums,

Traded in my WRX for a legacy a few weeks ago and I had one on my WRX which was only a few inches off the ground and had absolutely no issues with the fumoto on it. Granted it had a skid plate but I would say it should be fine. Risk is yours either way. I just purchased the fumoto with the short nipple a few days ago for the legacy too.

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Cool. Welcome to the forum. Lot of good people on here with valuable info. What skid did you use, the Metal one or are you talking about the OEM plastic one.

 

Did you get the locking clip and elbow adapter for the S model?

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Cool. Welcome to the forum. Lot of good people on here with valuable info. What skid did you use, the Metal one or are you talking about the OEM plastic one.

 

Did you get the locking clip and elbow adapter for the S model?

 

I installed a fumoto in Dec, and have no problems. The biggest problem I had was getting the over-tightened drain plug off.. I got the locking pin, just coz it was only a buck more.

You'll be fine even with the regular or short nipple. The drain plug sits high enough and at an angle for it not to really protrude out beyond your skid plate.

 

I had ordered the short nipple, but they didn't have it in stock at the time, so I ended up going with the no nipple.

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I’ve had the short nipple version on my 2017 Legacy since my first oil change last August. I’ve only done one change since, but I like the results so far. I have the rubber nipple cover and the plastic lock clip as well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Cool. Welcome to the forum. Lot of good people on here with valuable info. What skid did you use, the Metal one or are you talking about the OEM plastic one.

 

Did you get the locking clip and elbow adapter for the S model?

 

Thanks! and seems like it I already learned a lot from just reading through things. Had just the OEM one and for that set up I had no clip and had no issues. For this one I just bought it with the clip because like another said it was only a buck more. Never got the elbow or the tube because I didn’t think it was necessary. The nipple is long enough to move it away from everything. Just set up a pan in the right spot and you’re fine. Definitely worth purchasing in my opinion and have the piece of mind not worrying about issues with the drain plug, whether over-tightening or crossing threads, and also not worrying about crush washers haha.

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Considering throwing a Fumoto in the new Subie when I get it. What are you impressions of it considering the Leg rides a little lower than my Outback? Asking for trouble?

 

A search on Fumoto shows some returns about because being worried someone’s going to screw with their car. I didn’t consider vandalism.

 

Probably would get the short nipple version for ease of draining. But with the 3.6 I would have to climb under anyway.

 

Other option was to get a magnetic drain plug.

 

I have the Fumoto installed on my '16 Legacy and love it. It actually tucks nicely inside the skid plate and makes oil changes so much easier!

 

10/10 would recommend.

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Right I have a torque wrench but how do you fit it over the valve? Do I need a deep socket or crowfoot?

 

It's not easy. I got a set of flat wrench style bits that go on a 3/8" socket, but there wasn't enough room to turn it if you just jack up with a home floor jack. I have an electronic torque wrench, so I put it on the lug nuts to get a feel of the pressure at the torque spec and tightened the fumoto to aprox feel.

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Right I have a torque wrench but how do you fit it over the valve? Do I need a deep socket or crowfoot?

 

Crowsfoot would work well. I've installed several Fumoto valves using simple hand tools (no torque wrench) and only had one leaker. I don't know what I did wrong, but when I checked the valve a little while after installing it on my previous '08 STI it was little more than finger tight and had been weeping! :eek: Snugged it up and never had an issue again.

 

I have a torque wrench and torque everything that I think matters, such as lug nuts, fasteners, etc. For drain plugs, Fumoto valves, strut top mount nuts, etc. I use good engineering practice to tighten as much as I feel is necessary. With the Fumoto valve, the gasket doesn't crush, but it does compress; the increased resistance while compressing the gasket is what I go by to know when it's tight enough; check a little while later to ensure it hasn't come loose and forget about it until the next oil change.

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Considering throwing a Fumoto in the new Subie when I get it. What are you impressions of it considering the Leg rides a little lower than my Outback? Asking for trouble?

 

A search on Fumoto shows some returns about because being worried someone’s going to screw with their car. I didn’t consider vandalism.

 

Probably would get the short nipple version for ease of draining. But with the 3.6 I would have to climb under anyway.

 

Other option was to get a magnetic drain plug.

 

My question is this. Think about how often you change your oil. How often do you pull the drain plug? Is it that difficult to drop the drain plug? Is it really worth the risk...? I've never understood the appeal of fumotos, and I would never put one on my car, ever.

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My question is this. Think about how often you change your oil. How often do you pull the drain plug? Is it that difficult to drop the drain plug? Is it really worth the risk...? I've never understood the appeal of fumotos, and I would never put one on my car, ever.

 

Your loss, buddy!

 

It hasn't happened often, but I have inadvertently made a mess while changing my oil for a vehicle that does NOT have Fumoto valve. I've gone to the base hobby shop for a quick change and unluckily dropped the plug into the receptacle, resulting in a nice splash of oil on my decent work shirt.

 

This latest time, late last year, since my Fumoto didn't arrive in time for the first oil change on my new-to-me Legacy, I splashed oil on the deck. I did everything correctly, but the lift was out of commission and the pan that they had deflected the oil stream out of the pan and onto the deck. Nothing a little "kitty litter" couldn't fix, but I'm sure glad it wasn't my garage.

 

//

 

Contrast that with my Forester (and every other car I've had a Fumoto installed on): I am able to slide my pan under the Forester, reach under to open the valve (no lift, no jack, no gloves, no tools - nothing) and then walk away for a while as it drains. I then come back when it's convenient for me, reach under to close the valve, swap the filter, and then add the oil. No tools, no mess, minimal time wasted.

 

If you always change your own oil and you're averse to using a Fumoto valve, then you're wrong. It's as simple as that. :) I will never NOT have one installed, unless it's in a position where it's vulnerable.

 

//

 

I'll turn your question around: how often do you spend money on useless things? That fancy coffee, popcorn at a movie, whatever? The valve is $26 and will help make your oil changes easier every single time, even if it's only twice per year. Seems like a no-brainer to me!

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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I'll turn your question around: how often do you spend money on useless things? That fancy coffee, popcorn at a movie, whatever? The valve is $26 and will help make your oil changes easier every single time, even if it's only twice per year. Seems like a no-brainer to me!

 

See, I take back part of what I said, because I really do understand the appeal of them, and I do understand why people like them.

 

I guess for me though, as person that worries about everything, it simply isn't worth the extra risk, as small as the risk may be.

 

Would that nasty piece of retread I hit on 84 in Hartford accidentally opened the valve, or broken the valve off? Probably not, but what if...

 

*Another thing I don't like is it seems like the little bit of threads that stick up into the pan could prevent small particles from draining out of the pan, but that's just me.

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*Another thing I don't like is it seems like the little bit of threads that stick up into the pan could prevent small particles from draining out of the pan, but that's just me.

 

Can someone please elaborate a little more on this for me. How far does the threads stick out into the oil pan and how much old oil being left behind would that equate to when compared to the normal drain bolt? Thanks!

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I always admit when I'm wrong, and on the 6th gen 4 cylinder legacies, the threads on the fumoto valve do not stick up through the oil pan. I'm not sure about the 6 cylinder legacies.
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The threads do not protrude through the pan to prevent oil flow. And even if they did, you may not have gotten the last 1/16th of a quart out of her which would do no harm anyway. It's one thing to be anal and want 100% of the dirty oil out...I am too...but you have to be realistic and a tiny bit of "old" oil will hurt nothing and have zero impact on your cars motor. These valves have been out for over 20 years and are highly regarded and I have been using them since around 1997. I now use an oil extractor so I don't have to even get under the car and do a full maintenance from the top of the block.
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After I install the Fumoto valve on my Legacy and complete my first oil change I'll pull it and mark the amount of extra oil that drains.

 

As said, it is inconsequential. I have also never seen visible particulates drain with the effluent on a well-maintained vehicle. I only ever remember seeing particulates in my late grandpa's oil-burning, poorly-maintained Blazer. That thing had so much blow-by, that it would turn oil jet black within a couple hundred miles of an oil change! The oil was also likely picking get up a bunch of old goop and doing its best to clean up the hot mess in there!

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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I only have one experience with the Fumoto drain valve, but it convinced me to NEVER do one again. I can't even remember the vehicle I had it on now, but that's irrelevent I suppose. I lifted the vehicle and was shocked to find the valve moved out of the detent lock, partially turned to the open position. There was a drop of oil dripping out of the end of the valve. A slight turn more, and it would have been opened! All I could surmise was that it had been bumped and moved by a snow drift I had driven through (Northern Utah). I removed the valve at that oil change, and have never looked at them again. I understand now they put some kind of optional lock on them? Still, for the 3 times yearly I have to unscrew the drain plug, it's pretty much a non-issue for me.
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How far does the threads stick out into the oil pan ...

... on the 6th gen 4 cylinder legacies, the threads on the fumoto valve do not stick up through the oil pan.

The threads do not protrude through the pan to prevent oil flow.

 

Yep. There is a threaded bushing about 3/8 of an inch long welded to the inside of the oil pan. I checked, and the threads of the Fumoto F108x valve do not extend beyond the bushing. If you clean your OE drain plug and examine it carefully, the black paint applied at the factory provides witness marks to confirm the length of the bushing.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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I only have one experience with the Fumoto drain valve, but it convinced me to NEVER do one again. I can't even remember the vehicle I had it on now, but that's irrelevent I suppose. I lifted the vehicle and was shocked to find the valve moved out of the detent lock, partially turned to the open position. There was a drop of oil dripping out of the end of the valve. A slight turn more, and it would have been opened! All I could surmise was that it had been bumped and moved by a snow drift I had driven through (Northern Utah). I removed the valve at that oil change, and have never looked at them again. I understand now they put some kind of optional lock on them? Still, for the 3 times yearly I have to unscrew the drain plug, it's pretty much a non-issue for me.

 

They sell a plastic clip that goes over the locking mechanism to hold it down into place.

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