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Random Stumble/Stall Issue


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I'll do a battery disconnect reset tomorrow then, I don't trust the Torque lite app for properly resetting the ECU and my new dongle won't be in for a few days to use BtSsm to do it.

 

Grabbed a couple of pics of the turbo, in case somebody sees something.

 

Did a quick look of vac lines around the turbo and they look new and were tight.

Turbo1.thumb.jpg.4eac9b5671f7d2ae4366afa00ad6a39e.jpg

Turbo2.thumb.jpg.6dc1ed6878ba08806952e17d896fc45b.jpg

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I'm going to, just did a quick peek while on my lunch break. Decided to buy the KKL cable and the adapter to connect it to my phone instead of the bluetooth version, I eventually want to start using tuner alliance for e-tuning so I'll need it for that. Should be in Sunday so I can get to the bottom of all this.

 

Love the car, but having it stall while taking an off ramp onto a major avenue during rush hour traffic is not a fun thing.

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So I did some logging with the Torque app until my cable comes in on Sunday. Granted...most of it look jibberish to me :lol:, but I think my fuel trim values are out of whack (mostly because of the range between them) -15.625 to +25 on Bank 1 - Short Term plus my Mass Air Flow has quite a wide range.

 

I've attached it for reference, but I'm going to keep Googling until I can make sense of all the numbers :lol:

 

Could my Pending code: "P0420 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold" be tied to these fuel trims?

trackLog-2018-Feb-09_18-41-13.csv

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Looks like a vacuum leak.

 

It's what I was figuring. I'm going to build one of those DIY smoke machines and see what I can find.

 

I'm not 100% confident in the dealership's mechanic and don't think I want to bring it back to them when they didn't get it right the first time around. :lol:

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Is it normal for these car's to switch from closed loop to open loop (in relation to air to fuel ratio) when the engine is decelerating?

 

No, I wouldn't think so. As soon as there's no throttle input, the car should completely shut off fuel injection until RPMs drop close to idle. I believe in this case, the ECU "closed-loop" switch will report that it's in closed-loop mode.

 

edit: See below, I think this is incorrect

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No, I wouldn't think so. As soon as there's no throttle input, the car should completely shut off fuel injection until RPMs drop close to idle. I believe in this case, the ECU "closed-loop" switch will report that it's in closed-loop mode.
Thanks. Mine keeps going into open loop everytime I let off the throttle.

 

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

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Thanks. Mine keeps going into open loop everytime I let off the throttle.

 

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

Are you sure it's actually in open loop? What do the AFRs say? If it's pegged at full-lean readings (like 20:1 or higher AFR), then it's a moot point whether the ECU reports itself as being in open- or closed-loop, since it's not injecting any fuel anyway (i.e. there is no "loop" to begin with).

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Are you sure it's actually in open loop? What do the AFRs say? If it's pegged at full-lean readings (like 20:1 or higher AFR), then it's a moot point whether the ECU reports itself as being in open- or closed-loop, since it's not injecting any fuel anyway (i.e. there is no "loop" to begin with).
AFR is actually all over the place. My fuel trims are varying and I keep getting a lean issue on bank 1. It was raining here all day Sunday, so wasn't able to do a smoke test to look for a vac leak.

 

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

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Is it normal for these car's to switch from closed loop to open loop (in relation to air to fuel ratio) when the engine is decelerating?
Yes. The ECU goes to open loop under compression braking, when you completely let off the throttle from moderate or high revs, and of course when boosting under WOT.
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So my problem is getting worse. :spin: Checked all the hoses and such without much success. Going to build one of those home smokers this weekend to try and track down this vacuum leak. Latest numbers have my STF1 pretty much holding at 25% and my LTF1 holding at 11.71875 at idle. Driving everything goes pretty much haywire.

 

Attached more logs...mostly for other people to compare when searching threads in the future.

 

I'll post what I find out with the smoker.

trackLog-2018-Feb-16_06-25-37.csv

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Grabbed a couple of pics of the turbo, in case somebody sees something.

 

Did a quick look of vac lines around the turbo and they look new and were tight.

 

There should be a manufacturer's placard on the other side of the turbo. "the more powerful of the 2 options" is concerning.

 

You might need a flashlight and/or small mirror to read it but you should know what turbo they installed.

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So my problem is getting worse. :spin: Checked all the hoses and such without much success. Going to build one of those home smokers this weekend to try and track down this vacuum leak. Latest numbers have my STF1 pretty much holding at 25% and my LTF1 holding at 11.71875 at idle. Driving everything goes pretty much haywire.

 

Attached more logs...mostly for other people to compare when searching threads in the future.

 

I'll post what I find out with the smoker.

 

Can't remember your setup... Are you using bluetooth with the btssm app? If yes, you could always try what I did with my car: I left the car running at idle, opened the hood, took my phone with me with btssm running, wiggled the MAF wires while starring at the app. Lo and behold, the fuel correct started to adjust! Your wires may be fine but it does not hurt to check.

Also, if you are sure you do not have any leaks, then your MAF may be bad or o2 sensor

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There should be a manufacturer's placard on the other side of the turbo. "the more powerful of the 2 options" is concerning.

 

You might need a flashlight and/or small mirror to read it but you should know what turbo they installed.

 

That is part of my weekend plan. Along with removing the filters from the banjo bolts. I plan on having it e-tuned once I get the stumbling/running lean issue under control, so I'll need to know what turbo for that.

 

At this point I am thinking VF52 since that is the only direct bolt on option over the factory VF40.

 

Can't remember your setup... Are you using bluetooth with the btssm app? If yes, you could always try what I did with my car: I left the car running at idle, opened the hood, took my phone with me with btssm running, wiggled the MAF wires while starring at the app. Lo and behold, the fuel correct started to adjust! Your wires may be fine but it does not hurt to check.

Also, if you are sure you do not have any leaks, then your MAF may be bad or o2 sensor

 

I use a wired setup for bttsm, but actually will be hooking up the laptop to run the diagnostics this weekend. I still want to smoke test the motor, to rule out any leaks from a gasket someplace. A lot of work went into this motor recently, so I would rather rule out all possible vac leak issues.

 

I do know they replaced the MAF sensor right before I bought it, but will check into the wiring also.

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I should add that today, I took my TMIC off to inspect it and stuff. Put it back. Went on a short trip and was getting -15% long term fuel trims all across the board :mad:. But I knew that I carefully put back the TMIC and that its connection with the (Mishimoto) throttle body hose was good. Came back from trip, left the car running in my driveway, opened the hood, wiggled hoses (no change), but as soon as I wiggled the MAF wires, the idle changed! Fuel correct went to +20% right after that. Stopped the car, pulled the MAF connector, sprayed some MAF cleaner in there, put everything back, turned the car on and all went back to normal! And that is the 05. The 06 had that happened too!
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I couldn't build my smoker because my brother has my ohm meter, so went with the carb cleaner way of looking for a vac leak...nothing found. I found a good detailed thread on here for tracking them down.

 

I checked all the MAF connections again also. Unless they installed a bad MAF sensor, I don't believe it is the unit itself. It has been on the car for less than 500 miles.

 

I did find a GPS tracker/starter disable system the plugged into the OBD plug. Must have been from the previous owner because the dealer I used doesn't install them. Took that out and got some improvement.

 

My fuel trims now stay within range, but still get a stumble/stall issue. I have noticed that it gets worse when it's damp out, so having the dealer put in new NGK plugs and wires ( I bought a maintenance package so it's their responsibility).

 

I'll know more Monday night.

 

 

 

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

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So the dealership is saying the AC compressor is what is causing the problem. I know it isn't because the car does it even when I have the climate control turned off.

 

I'll let them install a new AC compressor so it's one less thing I have to worry about breaking down the road, but looks like I'll be figuring this one out myself.

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Pulled some more logs from the Torque App this morning. I definitely need to figure this issue out myself. The "mechanic" at the dealership looked at me like I was speaking some foreign language when I tried explaining about my fuel trims going haywire.

 

I did notice this morning that at idle, fuel trims stayed within normal ranges then out of the blue by short term fuel trim would peg to +25 and the car would stumble around...then once it recovered fuel trim would return back to a normal range. :spin:

 

I find that odd, cause I would think (dangerous thing :lol:) that if I had a vac leak that the issue would be consistent rather then intermittent.

 

As always, any input would be appreciated.

 

I'll be able to get some real log information Saturday using RomRaider. I'm still reading up on everything before I plug it into the car.

trackLog-2018-Feb-20_06-00-53.csv

trackLog-2018-Feb-20_07-04-47.csv

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