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Blown strut, leaking axles, and more...


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I have my car in the shop at Premier Subaru in Fremont, CA because on Saturday smoke started coming out from under the hood. I had it towed into their shop and they told me this:

 

FRONT LEFT AXLE SEEPAGE. FRONT RIGHT AXLE TORN AND LEAKING SUGGEST TO REPLACE BOTH FRONT AXLE $ 949.81

COMMENTS: LEAKING ONTO EXHAUST

 

TIMING BELT DOHC $ 908.00

COMMENTS: TIME

 

POWER STEERING PUMP LEAKING $ 262.50

COMMENTS: LEAKING

 

COOLANT HOSE LEAKING FROM TURBO TO COOLANT TANK $ 101.12

COMMENTS: LEAKING

 

REAR RIGHT STRUT LEAKING $ 1,113.18

COMMENTS: BLOWN

 

WHILE BRAKING, FOUND THE FRONT BRAKES WILL SQUEAK. $ 431.70

COMMENTS: ROTORS WARPED

 

Total quote = $4,063

 

I am trying to figure out how to upload the pictures that were sent to me from the dealership, so I'll attach those in a little bit.

 

Two items on there that I don't think need to be taken care of: The timing belt (had it replaced at 90,000 miles), and the front brakes. The front brake pads have 6mm left on them -- how would the rotors be warped? (bad front axles causing warped rotors?)

 

Long story short, I am in graduate school and don't have a whole lot of money to address these things so I'm wondering if anyone knows of any shops in the San Jose area that could do the work for less, or if I have any other options to save some money... I know that these items are pretty serious and need attention, I just simply can't afford it all.

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Dude, you're getting taken for a ride on those prices.

 

Two front axles are going to cost some money, but not $950 worth. From an auto parts store, you'd be looking at like $200 for both of those axles at the most.

 

Timing belt is a labor intensive job. Not sure I'd pay $900 for it, but it's not far off from a believable price.

 

Power steering pump is leaking? From where? What are they replacing? The infamous o-ring? That thing costs like $5 from the dealership's parts department and takes all of 20 minutes to replace with a ratchet, 10mm, and 12mm sockets.

 

Coolant hose from turbo to coolant tank for $101.12? Are they installing a new expansion tank, too? Holy jesus that's a lot of money for an easily accessible hose.

 

Strut R&R should be like 1 hour per corner plus the cost of the strut. I'm assuming they're setting you up with some Mercedes Benz level strut for that price, yeah?

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The axle work seems to be in place, but I'd just remove the axles, clean, re-grease and put new boots on them unless they are noisy.

 

If the brakes do brake without problems and don't cause the vehicle to drift off in an unexpected direction when braking they are usually OK, at least for now. Just measure the thickness and check it it's within specs and if not plan for them later if the thickness is indicating that they shall be replaced.

 

Power steering pump leak - looks like the hose is sweating some oil, but otherwise nothing urgent.

 

Take the car from them and go to some other shop. Only urgent thing is the front right axle, the rest is not urgent but should be looked at by someone not trying to rip you a truck sized hole.

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The axles and struts DO seem to be noisy (but no weird behavior, just creaking sounds), and the power steering fluid was leaking onto the exhaust (according to the dealership) which was causing the smoke. I am trying to find other shops that will do the work for less money.

 

I just want to make sure that the car is safe to drive from the dealership.

 

I do have AAA with free towing, would the best option be to have them tow my car to a different shop and have the front right axle addressed and then monitor everything else from there on out?

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Wow! Looks like the mechanics don't have job to do.

It is a Total Rip Off, BTW your not that much familiar with your Car so suddenly this is what we call Robbers at Work charging you the amount that is out of the Fix, that is why you need to go on another garage whom you will trust, I'll never go to a stealership unless there's a recall for my car.

There's a lot of Tutorials on youtube if your handy, but if not better find a trusted mechanic. I'm sure your car is still be drivable. Main thing a mechanic knows that your not familiar with your car because of the situation while you can drive it going there or so. Good Luck!!!

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Take it to a different shop. The car obviously needs at least a little TLC but not all of that and maybe not at those prices.

 

-If you already did the timing belt then you're good there.

-The axles probably need to be replaced or at least rebooted.

-If the power steering pump is leaking, buy a cheap bottle of power steering fluid and keep the resevoir topped off. Check it when you check your oil which should be pretty regularly with these cars.

-Sounds like the brakes are fine. They shouldn't squeak from warped rotors. You'll know warped rotors if you feel a shuddering through the brake pedal when you apply the brakes somewhat hard from a driving speed. Rotors get warped if you're too hard on the brakes a lot. Cheaper rotors tend to be pretty susceptible to this in my experience unless you drive like a grandma.

 

Good luck!

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The only decent quote is for timing belt (question is is it needed). The rest is a rip off.

 

I agree, get a beater for basic transportation, park the legacy until you have time and place to fix it yourself. Only thing hard is probably the timing set. LGT is a great car, if you like it keep it, fun cars that are paid for are great to have in the stable.

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The only decent quote is for timing belt (question is is it needed). The rest is a rip off.

 

$908 for the timing belt still high to me, I can do that half of the price looking around for OEM parts, but anyway that's the Stealership price which is acceptable. What is the Mileage of your car now???

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Are you mechanically inclined in anyway, have tools, have time and space to do the work? Even if you dont have tools you can borrow most tools from autozone and other auto part stores. It also looked like your car was fairly rust free too so thats good.

 

if you replace axles replace both at the same time because you will need to drain the transmission

if you replace struts you should do it in axle pairs because it affects how the car handles

You should do the timing belt every 10 years or 105k miles or if there is wear and replace all the pullies too... you dont want to have to go in there again because one of the bearings decided to fail.... its one extra step but it is right there... you may want to also replace the front main seal which is behind the oil pump, behind the sprocket for the timing belt. But you need to tell us how many miles are on it

 

Your rotors may be warped if you did a panic stop and then held the brake which would cause brake film buildup in that spot or if the spot got over heated.... if you are still stopping ok, you could have the rotors turned down if it bothers you.

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Just the seal, the seal is like 15 dollars, the pump is held in with 2 to 4 bolts and there is a spot for the smaller oil ring behind the pump

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-crank-cam-seals-222936.html

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-crankshaft-front-seal-set-tcs-46009/15780911-P?searchTerm=front+crankshaft+oil+seal+subaru

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