Pathfinder_88 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 My GT has 60,000 kms/40,000 miles on it and the motor is being pulled to do the clutch as it’s slipping at the current power level. I considered doing headgaskets and arp studs but the power will not be increased from the current level (stage 2) so I’m not sure the expensive is worth it right now. I am doing the tsk kit and will throw some new spark plugs at it. It doesn’t need a timing belt yet. Is there anything else that isn’t overly pricey that I should be doing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Check the turbo coolant lines for rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 upgrade the FSB to a 26mm bar My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 upgrade the FSB to a 26mm bar Came to post this. Easiest to do on the GT when the motor is out, super pain to do once it's back in. 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder_88 Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Came to post this. Easiest to do on the GT when the motor is out, super pain to do once it's back in. Car is on rce coilovers and rear bar has been done, will have to check on the front as it is new to me. It’s my wife’s dd and handles well as is I have to say...for a legacy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Car is on rce coilovers and rear bar has been done, will have to check on the front as it is new to me. It’s my wife’s dd and handles well as is I have to say...for a legacy. Daaaang RCE coilovers are $$$$, previous owner must've dropped dime on this car. Considering that, the FSB may already be done. 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder_88 Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Daaaang RCE coilovers are $$$$, previous owner must've dropped dime on this car. Considering that, the FSB may already be done. Yeah, there were no garbage parts purchased. He dropped like $120usd on a shift knob... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 I would do the ARP studs and headgaskets, even stage 2...then you can safely get above 18 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 I would do the ARP studs and headgaskets, even stage 2...then you can safely get above 18 psi. Good insurance for sure. I'd make sure to check leakdown numbers. If you decide to do headgaskets and studs, check valve lash before removing the heads. Just some peace of mind that's easier to fix while the engine is out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder_88 Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Good insurance for sure. I'd make sure to check leakdown numbers. If you decide to do headgaskets and studs, check valve lash before removing the heads. Just some peace of mind that's easier to fix while the engine is out. I’ve thought long and hard about it. It costs me about $500 to have the motor pulled so if it’s needed down the road I’m not out too much. It’s been at this power level for 20,000kms with no issues but I get it could happen anytime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 $500 is pretty good, especially if you already have another car to use if needed. Easy to check leakdown numbers with the engine out, and if anything looks a little off you can decide how much more is needed. Turbo coolant lines for sure if your area gets salt treated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_A_ron Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Came to post this. Easiest to do on the GT when the motor is out, super pain to do once it's back in. Just did this on Monday. Not really a super pain but you need an engine jack and a lift helps. The longest part of the process was figuring out the steps needed to do it. I am putting together a thread with pictures on how I did but essentially there are 8 bolts to drop the sub-frame. You'll also disconnect the exhaust after the J-pipe and take the bolt out of the mid hanger. Then remove the front engine mount bold and the two nuts on top of the side engine mounts. Take off the wheels then lift the engine a couple inches and pry down on the sub-frame. The front twisty bar comes right out and the new one slips in. You may need more space for the new one as it's thicker and may have sharper bends. gg ez Build Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 BPV - upgraded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder_88 Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 BPV - upgraded? Yes, GFB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Transmission mount, crossmember bushings, brass shift bushing, and steering damper are much easier with the engine out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder_88 Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Transmission mount, crossmember bushings, brass shift bushing, and steering damper are much easier with the engine out All done aside from steering damper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 I would do the ARP studs and headgaskets, even stage 2...then you can safely get above 18 psi. I tend to agree even though it is an extra expense. My heads went at stage 1 so it would be nice insurance. All the other suggestions are great as well. Good luck. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder_88 Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 I tend to agree even though it is an extra expense. My heads went at stage 1 so it would be nice insurance. All the other suggestions are great as well. Good luck. If money and time were not an issue, I’d be going with the studs and gaskets now for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Money will be more of an issue if they fail soon though. Fail to plan, plan to fail when it comes to gaining power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 since you are going to have the engine out and thus lots of room.... 1. If anything is leaking, FIX IT NOW. 2. Clean up any grounding points if they are in poor shape. 3. repair any paint chips/rust damage to the unit body. 4. Check all of your rubber lines and replace as needed 5. Inspect your brake lines for corrosion fix now if they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder_88 Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 I’m considering starting a thread to see who is above stock power and still on stock head bolts and gaskets out of curiosity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 I would do the ARP studs and headgaskets, even stage 2...then you can safely get above 18 psi. That's crazy. First time I read about doing headgaskets/studs below 400 whp, and even then hardly necessary, unless the car is routinely tracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 That's crazy. First time I read about doing headgaskets/studs below400 whp, and even then hardly necessary, unless the car is routinely tracked. So you have never heard of head lift below 400hp? Or headgasket failure below 400hp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Becks1818 Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 That's crazy. First time I read about doing headgaskets/studs below 400 whp, and even then hardly necessary, unless the car is routinely tracked.Our heads like to lift anything above 18psi. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 So you have never heard of head lift below 400hp? Or headgasket failure below 400hp? Rare. Definitely not a concern for a stage 2 car. Besides... there is loooong way from having the engine out to taking off heads. Might as well built it up with forged pistons at that point. Finally ARP studs are not something you slap on just because. The engine needs to be honed with torque plates torqued with the same fasteners torqued to the same torque specs, which with ARP studs are obviously very different from stock. They distort bores differently. Bottom line, ARP studs should never be used with stock (i.e. non-rebuilt) engine. Basically an quite uninformed advice I read about lately, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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