aj_mariner Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 I respect and appreciate all the knowledge people have passed on and helped me with. My car isn’t perfect, but I’ve always let her warm up for at least 5 min...this was more for the turbo than anything else. It also helped the tranny shift better right out of the gate. But this warm up was bred into me from my merchant days as SOP for all engines (from large slow speed diesels to medium speed diesel gen sets.). Don’t load her up till the oil is at least 135degF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 most of [us] don't recommend letting the idle to warm up, we feel its not good for the engine either. Taken a poll to support that statement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Taken a poll to support that statement? I believe the owners manual say's to drive it easy to warm it up too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaroth Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 Update: I was out of town for about a week on a work trip, but I got a call from the shop yesterday saying that my car was all set. Went in to the shop and they told me they had flushed the engine, changed the oil and filter, and test driven it (for up to 50 miles ). No codes or other problems noted. They didn't charge me anything, but I'm a little suspicious that the problem has been adequately addressed, so I'm going to check the banjo bolt myself this weekend. In any case, could some bad oil have caused all this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 ^You'd have to log to be sure she's good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaroth Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 ^You'd have to log to be sure she's good. Thought so. If I bought a tactrix cable, could I log everything I need? I figure I'd need to capture AVCS angles and OCV duty cycle at minimum (based on the service manual). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 75% of engine wear is on start-up, so driving off with cold oil that's not properly lubricating the internals surely is not a good thing. I always have and always will let any vehicle I own, warm up prior to driving off. I consume more gas in the winter but I'd rather buy more gas than an engine. I'm talking 5-10 min depending on ambient temperature. In the summer, more than a couple min is not necessary. If you don't have oil lubing the entire engine 10 seconds after start up, you have a lot more problems on your hands than wear. Driving a car puts load on it, even if you drive easy. This increased load relative to idle "load" warms the car up faster. According to virtually everyone, warm cars don't wear like cold ones do, so why spend so much time with a cold car? That said, I have friends who warm their cars and friends who don't and both of them have spun bearings or cracked ringlands. I see literally no correlation between warming a car before driving it and not. I start mine, let it idle for 20-30 seconds or so, and then I go. I wait to flog it until the coolant is at operating temp for at least 5 minutes or so to give the oil time to warm up. Virtually every manufacturer takes their cars to Finland or Norway or whatever, finds a frozen lake in the middle of -30°C winter, dumps 50W oil in it and flogs it, fully cold after sitting at night. Every manufacturer tries to make their cars fail in the cold and in the heat (GM has a proving grounds in Yuma, AZ) and then disassembles them to check for wear. Everything a manufacturer does is more rigorous than what we do and none of them say idle your car until it's at operating temp before using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 My thought's on the bearing spinning and ringland issues, those are caused by the engine MAP, in these engines. Detonation will cause more force on the rod bearings and pistons. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaroth Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Spending some time today trying to get to the banjo bolt. Got the intercooler off and was greated with what appears to be oil in the inlet pipe... how screwed am I? https://imgur.com/vRsx1hg Also, does anyone know what these two hoses are supposed to connect to? They're under the IC and appear to connect to the top of the transmission on one end, but lead to nowhere on the other. This is the first time I've had the IC off since I bought the car. https://imgur.com/QaSwty8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Never seen these hoses before. Looks like it goes to your auto trans? Regarding the oil in the intercooler, a light coat is OK. You just don't want to see lots of oil dripping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Although I have to say that if you were to look at mine, it does look pretty clean inside that turbo piping you're showing in the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 That's a vent tube and is completely normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aj_mariner Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Spending some time today trying to get to the banjo bolt. Got the intercooler off and was greated with what appears to be oil in the inlet pipe... how screwed am I? https://imgur.com/vRsx1hg Also, does anyone know what these two hoses are supposed to connect to? They're under the IC and appear to connect to the top of the transmission on one end, but lead to nowhere on the other. This is the first time I've had the IC off since I bought the car. https://imgur.com/QaSwty8 Might also want to check your PCV & hose assembly...might be time to replace. $60 and should be done every 100k IIRC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaroth Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Alright, so after a few hours of fighting I finally got the downpipe off and was able to check the back half of the turbo. There is no play that I can feel; the turbine is rock solid. Ran out of light this evening before I could get the whole turbo off, but I'll try to get to that and the banjo bolt under there ASAP. I'm feeling more confident that I caught this problem before blowing my turbo, at the very least. What should I be inspecting to determine the root cause of the oil in the IC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John J Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 PCV valve. It vents the crankcase to the intake, so some oil in the intercooler is normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaroth Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 PCV valve. It vents the crankcase to the intake, so some oil in the intercooler is normal. This seems like a cheap replacement. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaroth Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 Time to revive this dead thread... Car has been sitting for a few months due to weather and a busy schedule, but temps are rising and it's time to get the car back on the road. I'm planning to replace the PCV components, fix the steering pump (o-ring), remove banjo bolts, and finally address P0011. I'm thinking I'll also remove the intake manifold to give everything up there a good inspection and clean while I'm at it. That's a fair bit of work, so is there anything in particular I should look at replacing while it's all apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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