Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Dreaded P0011... Could it just be the camshaft position sensor?


Recommended Posts

Over the weekend my car sprung a CEL with code P0011. Car drove fine and felt completely normal, but I parked immediately and had it towed to a shop this morning.

 

From what I've read online, P0011 seems to largely be related to oil feed problems in the passenger side AVCS and often appears right before a blown turbo. However, the mechanic just called to say they only need to replace the camshaft position sensor, because "that's what the computer is telling him."

 

I've never touched the turbo, AVCS, OCV's, etc and I don't know the condition of the banjo bolt filters. The mechanic didn't seem to think the problem was related to the turbo-side oil feed at all when I brought it up over the phone. Should I trust them and just have the camshaft position sensor replaced, or are they missing the mark?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be ok with a new cam position sensor in this case.

 

I seem to recall that side AVCS can be hard to get too.

 

07-09's don't have the same banjo filter issues the 05-06's have.

 

How many miles on the car ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Currently around 94-95k miles. I left it parked for a while over the holidays/blizzard recently, but in December it had been stalling out on me at stop lights and idling badly. I was thinking it was a MAF/throttle body issue, but I think a bad camshaft sensor would also cause that problem.

 

In any case, the mechanic is going to replace the sensor and I'll also have him take a look at the turbo banjo bolt filter while he's in there. Saves me the cold fingers in this weather. Thanks for the input!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That banjo filter is up top on those years. not down below.

 

What oil are you using ?

 

My 09 Spec B sits for a few weeks this time of year without moving. it has 82,000 miles and lives on Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic

 

Unless you have a electrical issue with the sensor, oil gumming up the gap could cause the issue.

 

Does your car get driven only for sort distances ?

 

Both my cars get driven for at least 10 miles highway 98% of the time. In my years here, I've learned these cars don't do well when driven mostly/only short distances.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That banjo filter is up top on those years. not down below.

 

Interesting. I had heard that the bolt moved for the 07+ models, but I haven't found any pics that show exactly where they moved to. Do you happen to have any helpful links/pics?

 

As for oil I've been using Valvoline 5w-30. May have been the long life version, I don't remember exactly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting. I had heard that the bolt moved for the 07+ models, but I haven't found any pics that show exactly where they moved to. Do you happen to have any helpful links/pics?

 

As for oil I've been using Valvoline 5w-30. May have been the long life version, I don't remember exactly.

 

This is from my rebuild this summer. It's not the best picture but you can see that the passenger banjo is now on the top of the head, under the turbo inlet. IMG_0384.thumb.JPG.0ebc60c45192cfd282a3dd276e0e9fb0.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's definitely a cam code but hopefully his due diligence brought him to this point and he's not just firing the parts cannon at it because the code is for the cam sensor.

 

When did you last change the oil? (Quality)

Where is the oil level on the dipstick?

 

They are the 2 biggest causes for timing over advanced codes and should always be ruled out prior to going any further.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting. I had heard that the bolt moved for the 07+ models, but I haven't found any pics that show exactly where they moved to. Do you happen to have any helpful links/pics?

 

As for oil I've been using Valvoline 5w-30. May have been the long life version, I don't remember exactly.

 

 

Thanks for reminding me,

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2834394

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the car back last night after the cam sensor was replaced - it had a bit of idle re-learning to do on my drive home, but it feels fine otherwise. I'll keep it out of boost for a while just in case.

 

Oil was changed in mid December, about 500 miles ago. I haven't personally checked the oil level but I will tonight. The mechanic doesn't think it's necessary to dig into the car to pull the filter because he hasn't seen much trouble with them in the 08's. He showed me where it was located under the intake/inlet last night, and it matches the pics you all linked.

 

He quoted 4-5 hours of labor to remove it (up to $475), which he's happy to do if I'm willing to pay it. That sounds about right for getting the IC, turbo, etc out to reach the damn thing. Is it worth it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the car back last night after the cam sensor was replaced - it had a bit of idle re-learning to do on my drive home, but it feels fine otherwise. I'll keep it out of boost for a while just in case.

 

Oil was changed in mid December, about 500 miles ago. I haven't personally checked the oil level but I will tonight. The mechanic doesn't think it's necessary to dig into the car to pull the filter because he hasn't seen much trouble with them in the 08's. He showed me where it was located under the intake/inlet last night, and it matches the pics you all linked.

 

He quoted 4-5 hours of labor to remove it (up to $475), which he's happy to do if I'm willing to pay it. That sounds about right for getting the IC, turbo, etc out to reach the damn thing. Is it worth it?

Unless you can do the work yourself. It's worth it.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious to know why you mention trip distance.

 

In my years on this forum, those us who drive for long distances seem to have much fewer issues then those that only drive a short distance than shut the car off.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have very rarely heard people reporting failed cam sensors... It is more common for the AVCS to fail though over time. fyi.

 

Mine killed a passenger side cam sensor.

 

Was experiencing hard starting, ignition cut outs (under power, the power drop off felt like blowing a charge pipe). Took a pretty long time to throw a code.

 

The passenger side sensor lives pretty close to the turbocharger, I'd expect that one to fail first.

 

Replaced the sensor, car has been fine since.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my years on this forum, those us who drive for long distances seem to have much fewer issues then those that only drive a short distance than shut the car off.

 

Oh okay. That makes sense because short distance driving does cause more wear and tear. If one stays on top of maintenance, most of those issues can be avoided.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update: drove the car a few times after getting it back from the shop. On my commute this morning, it threw P0011 and P0021 after about 10 minutes on the road. Car felt normal, but I had it towed to the shop again... at least I'm making friends with my local flatbed drivers.

 

All signs point to an oil feed problem on the turbo-side pipes at this point. Shop is investigating as I post this; I'll keep the forum updated.

 

PS - My typical drive is pretty short (2-5 miles mostly city), but I do take it on longer drives (80 miles or so) every other week or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update: drove the car a few times after getting it back from the shop. On my commute this morning, it threw P0011 and P0021 after about 10 minutes on the road. Car felt normal, but I had it towed to the shop again... at least I'm making friends with my local flatbed drivers.

 

All signs point to an oil feed problem on the turbo-side pipes at this point. Shop is investigating as I post this; I'll keep the forum updated.

 

PS - My typical drive is pretty short (2-5 miles mostly city), but I do take it on longer drives (80 miles or so) every other week or so.

 

 

Your car is an 08 so getting the banjo filters is easier then 05-06.

 

Have them remove the banjo filter in the oil feed lines. Then listen to your turbo and learn how it sounds. Have a plan in place for when the sound changes from a whine to a whistle. At the whistle, stop driving the car. Replace the turbo before it blows and takes out the engine.

 

Those codes at the same time are usually the death code for the turbo.

 

aj, most of don't recommend letting the idle to warm up, we feel its not good for the engine either. Driving it keeps the oil pressure higher, while the pistons move horizontally. Gravity wants to pull the pistons down.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your car is an 08 so getting the banjo filters is easier then 05-06.

 

I think you might have that backwards... from what I can tell 05-06 have the turbo line banjo bolt on the back of the engine block, 08's have the bolt on top of the block under the turbo inlet. It's a lot more work to remove.

 

In any case, my turbo hasn't been making any strange sounds, but I'm still worried. I'll wait for the shop to pull it apart to get at the banjo bolt, then have them inspect the turbo while it's accessible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

75% of engine wear is on start-up, so driving off with cold oil that's not properly lubricating the internals surely is not a good thing. I always have and always will let any vehicle I own, warm up prior to driving off. I consume more gas in the winter but I'd rather buy more gas than an engine. I'm talking 5-10 min depending on ambient temperature. In the summer, more than a couple min is not necessary.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use