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Opinions- 05 LTG or 08 OBXT


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It seems I can't get away from these Subies for long so I'm back.

My options are a 2005 LGT 5EAT with 105k miles, timing belt done, second owner with documents and he used M1 (uh-oh) every 3k miles. My preferred color combo-silver on black. It's almost 4 hours away. It also has a hole in the muffler. $6800 obo.

 

The other is a 2008 OBXT 5EAT with 96k miles at a dealership. No paperwork but full carfax. Dealer maintained until recently it was taken to JiffyLube where they changed the oil and ATF...that could be bad I suppose. Dealer also put "synthetic blend" oil in it. Timing belt hasn't been done. Worst color combo IMO- beige on beige. This one is 2 hours away. $8500 obo.

 

Both cars still have the banjo bolt filters in, though the '08 it's not as risky. I'd much rather have newer, but maybe saving $2k is worth it by getting an older one. The '05 I'd put a catless upipe and remove the banjo filters. The '08 I'd remove the banjo filters and do the belt but I'm nervous about what oil it's been running. BOTH of my previous '05's I put Rotella in after they were using crappy oil and it blew the camshaft.

What do y'all think?

 

Edit: I realize I typed LTG. I should slow down when typing

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05 LGT.

Brakes and suspension mean a good bit more than ground clearance to me!

All I can ask is... get a compression check/leak down on both, and pictures from underneath of headgasket and valve covers!

 

If a vehicle has problems, that is an invitation to modify it.

 

That's what I'm worried about, mostly with the 05 is the valve gaskets. I'll have to make sure nothing is wet at all! I do like the '05 but I'm wondering if anyone I know will drive 8 hours for me :lol:

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I read the Carfax of the 05 LGT and they took it to Sears for oil changes since 50k miles. I really don't like the sound of that. It seems like it's always a gamble with these anyways, but that makes me nervous!
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Get the outback PLEASE. The outback will have the revised 5eat witch in my experience feels so much nicer to drive. The ground clearance is great if you go off pavement or deal with a lot of snow. The extra space is great too I used to fit 3-4 pallets in mine. Not to mention the legacy is 13 years old and wasn't driven a lot, these cars hate to sit. I'd expect some extra rust on on the legacy too since you're from Maine. Trust me on this. Only reason to get the legacy is if you plan on racing around all the time or simply can't afford the outback.
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Get the outback PLEASE. The outback will have the revised 5eat witch in my experience feels so much nicer to drive. The ground clearance is great if you go off pavement or deal with a lot of snow. The extra space is great too I used to fit 3-4 pallets in mine. Not to mention the legacy is 13 years old and wasn't driven a lot, these cars hate to sit. I'd expect some extra rust on on the legacy too since you're from Maine. Trust me on this. Only reason to get the legacy is if you plan on racing around all the time or simply can't afford the outback.

 

Lots of good points. I do have a family and drive on rough roads a lot. The LGT is in Connecticut so there's a slightly smaller chance of rust. I read mixed reviews on the revised 5EAT on the 08-09. Something about quicker down shifts is all I can really find that's noticeable. One of them I imagine will be sold by the time I can get to it, so I guess it's a waiting game from here on!

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I have driven an 09 LGT wagon 5EAT and my 05 5EAT and I (had under 10 minutes of seat time in the 09) could not notice a difference, I did not get to gun it though or use the manual shift options.

 

The 05/06 5EAT have an Upgraded Valve Body Kit (IPT does the adjustment, I believe they are just installing some other companies product modifications) available that can be installed, I am sure that would beat the 07-09 5EAT by a long shot.

 

My LGT is starting to rust, I agree the OBXT plastic flares would cover rust up for plenty of years to come, so that may be the only point I would prefer on the OBXT. CT still has a good bit of salt (I am from central NY, so I guess my guess is invalid). The salty air off the ocean and acid rain does just as much damage in some cases I would think.

 

Low ball both of them, and see who bites or wants to play ball! Worse thing to happen is both say yes haha.

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As a sedan lover, my advise would be to go with the Outback. Outbacks retain their value much better, Better head design (from oil feed perspective), higher compression, no catted up pipe, if you must have a sedan, try to find an 07+ Legacy. Also the fact that timing belt hasn't been done (which is good) can be used as a slight bargaining chip.

 

I've seen too many failed engines from bad timing belt jobs (because only belt was done, or not properly torqued), thus even if someone tells me a car has a new timing belt, I will still redo it myself to make sure it's done right.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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As a sedan lover, my advise would be to go with the Outback. Outbacks retain their value much better, Better head design (from oil feed perspective), higher compression, no catted up pipe, if you must have a sedan, try to find an 07+ Legacy. Also the fact that timing belt hasn't been done (which is good) can be used as a slight bargaining chip.

 

I've seen too many failed engines from bad timing belt jobs (because only belt was done, or not properly torqued), thus even if someone tells me a car has a new timing belt, I will still redo it myself to make sure it's done right.

 

I talked the Outback seller down to $8500 from $10k because of the belt.

Funny thing is, the "local" (2 hours away) Subaru tuning shop charges $900 for a full belt job, and my actual local dealer only charges $550 for everything.

 

I still have to get my current car sold for it though. He said he would take a refundable deposit on it but I just don't have an extra $500 right now.

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I called the dealer it was serviced pretty well at. They said #1 ignition coil was replaced at 82k. They said just the coil was bad. Does that sound iffy? I've never heard of a coil going bad that soon.

Turbo Subarus are much different than my 04 Taurus, but I replaced the coils on that at 230k for preventative maintenance.

 

The carfax said "Engine check"

They assured me there was no bad valve or anything, just a bad coil. I know it can happen but I wanted to check on here to see if that sounds like an issue.

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#2 or #4 cylinders are the normal ones with valve or ring issues, so a #1 coil replacement should be fine.

 

Is there a warranty with the car ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I would avoid a first-year production car. There are some problems that I've noticed with the 05's that some of the later years do not (some electrical/wiring issues, premature rusting, premature wear on the interior). Also agree with the timing belt - I would prefer to get a car that is just about to need to have it done and get it done by a reputable shop with a full parts breakdown.
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#2 or #4 cylinders are the normal ones with valve or ring issues, so a #1 coil replacement should be fine.

 

Is there a warranty with the car ?

 

 

I believe it has the common 30 day/3k mile.

After talking them down several thousand though, I'm not sure.

It's either this, an 09-12 Rav4 V6 or a 10-12 Fusion Hybrid. Since the last two are a dime a dozen I'm really pushing for this obxt.

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I believe it has the common 30 day/3k mile.

After talking them down several thousand though, I'm not sure.

It's either this, an 09-12 Rav4 V6 or a 10-12 Fusion Hybrid. Since the last two are a dime a dozen I'm really pushing for this obxt.

 

I'm very pleased with my 05 OBXT. Great utility vehicle with a huge fun factor. Practical and fun...what's not to love?

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