Max Capacity Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 I would just let Mike do his thing for you...he really is that good. As said, his MAP is so much better then the Cobb map. I'm lucky and live about 10 minutes from Mike. He's a busy guy so just work with him...you'll be very happy. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric_H Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 I will check him out as far as actually using him for an e tune. Any thoughts on e tune vs dyno/road tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Quote: Originally Posted by Th3Franz View Post Speed density tuning vs maf ... what are common mistakes? Improper injector scaling, latency, and tip-in. Things can be a bit easy if you have a good reference like known injectors, known maf calibration, etc. Then you can create a rough VE table by logging various pressure and engine speeds to begin to tune with. Also I've seen many bumpy tables, in my experience this is the difference between an okay tune and a great tune. Smoothing is key. There is also a delicate balance with the fuel learning system. So if latency is off the base load calcs are off and then it snowballs skewing the VE table. A heavy amount of fuel post tip can also often trigger learning when it sees a regular spike in corrections. Quote: Originally Posted by robburns201 View Post ^^^^^ and differences of them for Noobs like me! Speed density is using your MAP (pressure sensor and a charged air temp which requires relocating the air temp sensor) to provide the main calculation for fueling. It has several advantages: 1. Provides more physical data for the ecu to look up using a 3d chart with 484 cells of data vs a mafs 54. Which also better compensates for variation in engine load. 2. Engine will still run with a hose popped off or leak with SD, and miscalculations with due to intake/boost leaks with a maf system are eliminated. 3. Engine will not have any issues with vent to atmosphere blow off valves (provided it works correctly and proper spring rate). Disadvantages 1. More tuning work. 2. Some believe MAFs are smoother but this depends on the MAF, housing, and airflow. A properly tuned SD car will run extremely well. I have done enough hybrid configurations as well, but overall I'd go with full SD. Quote: Originally Posted by utc_pyro View Post 1) Do you consider the OEM MAF scaling or injector scaling closer to real? 2) What is your preferred way to dial in injector scaling? 3) How should one adjust injector firing angle when upgrading injectors? 1. I'm not entirely sure what you mean, but the stock maf curve is okay. Cars are off in both directions all the time (sometimes rich, sometimes lean). Scaling is not something id change on stock injectors, latency can be off a little. 2. Injector scale is really a fixed number to me, based on the flow rate so I simply input it. Latency and tip-in are what I'm tuning, I most if not all maf curves in my library of calibrations, and would calculate based off of the ID in custom cases(this also would need refining). Latency is a combination of fuel trims, tip-in, and feel. I typically start with a default tip-in value, and play with latency until it trims reasonably throughout the range if rpms in conjunction with maf or ve tuning. Then I will actually adjust the tip in as i know the timing of deliver is correct. 3. The firing angle generally doesn't need to be altered unless in extreme cases in my opinion. This is how the fuel is delivered in relation to engine position, if latency is correct it should be firing nearly at the correct time. Not to say improvements cant be made, but I would expect in situations where the injectors are physically further away like in the cases of methanol systems for better atomization you would need to adjust this. Quote: Originally Posted by wbrawley View Post What gauges to have up while logging for a tune? DAM, IDC, Boost, FKL, etc? Boost, A/f senor 1, fine knock corr, feedback knock corr., a/f learning #1, intake temp. Quote: Originally Posted by sshole View Post Do you have a preference for injectors? I have DW 850cc top feed injectors to go with 18G turbo and a local shop is saying they don't want to tune my car because they don't like how finicky the injectors can be (i.e. getting the car to idle smoothly). Most tuners complain about side feed injectors as they can be tricky. I tune up to 850cc sidefeed, above that just dont tune that well. Above that any top feed from 420cc to 1300cc i have no issues with DW and ID I have done tons of. 850cc DW top feed are fairly straight forward in my opinion. __________________ Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 ^^^^^^this was posted at the Beginning of the thread.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 I will check him out as far as actually using him for an e tune. Any thoughts on e tune vs dyno/road tune? When Mike had the wagon on the dyno, he wouldn't give it back to me until he took it out and street tuned it, 20 minutes later he was back and the car has run great ever since. that was Aug 2011. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mnabeih Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 hi all, i have a jdm lgt 2.0L 5eat i tuned it to 17.5 psi peak boost tappers to 14 psi, total timing 24 at revlimiter, e10 gasoline and with WM injection 50-50 mix, the issue is that the performance almost the same bet low timing map with 20 total timing and 24 degrees the 80-180 kph time is exactly the same. am i reached the MBT or its a TCU tuning issue?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydrvr Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 I'm not sure if this is in the spirit of this thread or not but I'm trying to help my tuner figure something out. My car has been a problem from the very beginning and I'm about to run out of things to replace... It's never run quite right and the fuel trims have always been off in one way or another. My present issue, and I'm completely lost as to what to make of it, is that my calculated engine load has a strange flat spot (shown in teal in the attached image) where it should, according to my tuner, follow the blue line he added. He has my ECU set up to run in hybrid SD and has scaled AF Learn A, B, & C down pretty low such that it changes to SD operation under moderate load. I've also noticed there's a narrow band of load where the car runs lean when it is not in closed loop operation and the SD bit is also not set. I need to verify through logs but it appears the flat spot in the load calculation coincides with this band of open loop operation. I have full confidence in my tuner, he's among the best in the state, but he's also busy and I'm trying to help him out. Does anyone have any thoughts what might be going on here? Is there something unique to the LGT ECU that makes it difficult to tune compared to WRXes? What does the ECU use to calculate load under the three operating conditions: closed loop, open loop, and SD (if I have this information I can at least log and see if there's something funny going on)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Question about OCV duty cycles. Based off this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ocv-variation-227024.html I gather that the duty cycles should be fairly close to each other. I attached a data log from today and I noticed mine were not that close at times. No CELs or otherwise negative performance. I also charted it out to see the variance. Thoughts?datalog8.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Did you extract all of the banjo filters? If one filter is clogged it will cause it to be delayed. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Did you extract all of the banjo filters? If one filter is clogged it will cause it to be delayed. They have all been removed. Did that within the first 3 months of owning the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Decided to replace both OCVs today. Data looks much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Nice, looks like they were still in the early stages of failure. When mine failed it would jump form 0-50* every couple seconds. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 I was fortunate enough to catch it. After removing I was testing the left side with a 9v battery and occasionally it would rapid fire so definitely seemed to not be ok. The right side seemed fine but I felt better if they were both new. Car definitely drives better which is awesome cause I didn't really feel it drove bad before. Everything is just smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 I was fortunate enough to catch it. After removing I was testing the left side with a 9v battery and occasionally it would rapid fire so definitely seemed to not be ok. The right side seemed fine but I felt better if they were both new. Car definitely drives better which is awesome cause I didn't really feel it drove bad before. Everything is just smoother. Mine have 180k... Thinking I should replace them as preventative maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 If you have a way of logging the values, do it and see. I had no codes and car felt ok. Now it's butter smooth. If not, $200 or so is cheap insurance. Very easy to replace too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 If you have a way of logging the values, do it and see. I had no codes and car felt ok. Now it's butter smooth. If not, $200 or so is cheap insurance. Very easy to replace too. I'll log it through the AP on my way home today. What are you using to graph the results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 I just used Excel. Google sheets would work too if you dont have MS Office Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 -DISCLAIMER- I don't know if this is the right place to do this so mods relocate if needed. The Spec B is my first Subaru, my background prior to this was 100% Honda/Acura based, so some of what I learned then may not translate to tuning a Subaru so please take that into consideration when reading my question. In my Honda/Kpro(standalone) days the tuning process was as follows. Tune the low cam at 10*, 20*, 30*, and 40*, etc.... (Air Fuel only & Ignition only if knock is present) -Each cam position was recorded (dynoed) Same as above for high cam. Now using the cam angles that generated the most power, build your map. Once the map is completed, do a full run to address any changes in air fuel ratio. I left out how to set the Vtec point since that information is irrelevant to a Subaru. Ignition timing would be adjusted once building the map was completed. So, are Subaru's tuned in the same manner or are cam angles left alone for the most part (oem mapping)? Is it on a tuner by tuner case? Meaning some tune cam angles and other's don't? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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