1-3-2-4 Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 For those that are running amps how did you do the battery terminals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 No one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 I just put another copper battery terminal on the bolt which holds the battery post clamp down. The highest current circuit in your car is the starter motor so this lead should be closer to the battery post than any other connection. What kind of gauge wire are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 I just put another copper battery terminal on the bolt which holds the battery post clamp down. The highest current circuit in your car is the starter motor so this lead should be closer to the battery post than any other connection. What kind of gauge wire are you running? Would be 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Same here. This should work like a champ, use a big soldering iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 That lug should probably be crimped. I have a set of screw terminal posts. I'd recommend a crimped lug. Are you routing through the driver side quarter panel or through the firewall by the clutch pedal? I don't recommend cutting into the main harness seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 That lug should probably be crimped. I have a set of screw terminal posts. I'd recommend a crimped lug. Are you routing through the driver side quarter panel or through the firewall by the clutch pedal? I don't recommend cutting into the main harness seal. Which way is easy? I'm going to have to find a way to go past the firewall anyways with my oil pressure sensor plug anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Which way is easy? I'm going to have to find a way to go past the firewall anyways with my oil pressure sensor plug anyways I'd go through the pedal area if it fits. If not, the quarter panel has an easier through hole. There is a thread somewhere, but I haven't seen it in a long while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 I'd go through the pedal area if it fits. If not, the quarter panel has an easier through hole. There is a thread somewhere, but I haven't seen it in a long while. I think I remember that tread about the line for the boost gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 How powerful will your amp(s) be? In my case, I did the 'big 3' with 1/0 gauge wires and simply added a similar accessory as shown in post 5. What I did to solder the 'fat' wire to that ring terminal is use a torch cause you'll use lots of solder wire. I went through the quarter panel. Was a bit of a pain due to the size of the wire... my system is about 3.5K RMS. But I never reach that level due to (non) upgraded battery and alternator . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 I used the brass crimp connector and connected it directly to the battery. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 How powerful will your amp(s) be? In my case, I did the 'big 3' with 1/0 gauge wires and simply added a similar accessory as shown in post 5. What I did to solder the 'fat' wire to that ring terminal is use a torch cause you'll use lots of solder wire. I went through the quarter panel. Was a bit of a pain due to the size of the wire... my system is about 3.5K RMS. But I never reach that level due to (non) upgraded battery and alternator . Nothing crazy at all I'm looking at a 5 channel amp 500w I probably don't need to go 4 gauge at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 mmh. I think you should. Is it a class A/B or D amp? If it is the former, then it may draw as much as 700-900W depending on how efficient it is. In any case, class A/B amps are not very efficient to begin with, but they sound better than class D (for mids/high). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 This figure may help you decide which size wire is best for your application. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/audio-alarms/62425d1235669252-wire-gauge-ampacity-table-wiringdiagram.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 mmh. I think you should. Is it a class A/B or D amp? If it is the former, then it may draw as much as 700-900W depending on how efficient it is. In any case, class A/B amps are not very efficient to begin with, but they sound better than class D (for mids/high). It would be a Class D amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 ok. model/brand? They usually provide you the 'efficiency' on the spec sheet. From there, you can figure out roughly the RMS wattage it'll actually draw. example: -efficiency = 60% -amp rated at 500 W RMS (not PEAK!) --> it will then pull roughly 500*100/60=833W RMS (that is at full tilt before clipping and or distortion). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 ok. model/brand? They usually provide you the 'efficiency' on the spec sheet. From there, you can figure out roughly the RMS wattage it'll actually draw. example: -efficiency = 60% -amp rated at 500 W RMS (not PEAK!) --> it will then pull roughly 500*100/60=833W RMS (that is at full tilt before clipping and or distortion). https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1LUCwVUgkKa/p_113X8015/Kenwood-Excelon-X801-5.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 well, this is actually a 500+150x2=800W RMS amp. You have 500W dedicated exclusively for the sub and the 150X2 for the mids/high. The fuses also give you an idea of the power the amp will draw (30Ax3=90A----90A*14.4V=1300W). So it cannot draw more than that on average at full tilt I'd guess. In any case, 4 gauge, no less! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 well, this is actually a 500+150x2=800W RMS amp. You have 500W dedicated exclusively for the sub and the 150X2 for the mids/high. The fuses also give you an idea of the power the amp will draw (30Ax3=90A----90A*14.4V=1300W). So it should not draw more than that on average at full tilt I'd guess. In any case, 4 gauge, no less! I haven't decided if I'm going to amp the rear speakers or just amp the front's and the Sub.. speaking about the fronts how do I go about running the wires to the doors for the speaker wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Here is the official spec sheet: http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/x801-5/spec.html As for wiring the speakers, I cheated: went at the back of the OEM stereo and tapped into those. This way, no messing around with door cards and stuff. If you go that route, make sure you unhook the speaker wires from the OEM stereo though. And I would definitely hook up all four speakers. This way, you won't overdrive the front. You'll have all four pushing equally well and providing you a clean sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 Here is the official spec sheet: http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/x801-5/spec.html As for wiring the speakers, I cheated: went at the back of the OEM stereo and tapped into those. This way, no messing around with door cards and stuff. If you go that route, make sure you unhook the speaker wires from the OEM stereo though. And I would definitely hook up all four speakers. This way, you won't overdrive the front. You'll have all four pushing equally well and providing you a clean sound. I don't have the stock radio I have a aftermarket pioneer with the JDM double din I was just curious I'd have to fish the wires in that area of the door that has the rubber cover? I have plenty of wire but I don't recall how stuffed it is.. the audio right now is the least of my concern at the moment but after my motor is in I'd be looking to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 then same thing. You can go at the back of your pionneer head unit, unhook the speaker wires from it, and extend these wires to your amp. Easiest route imho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 then same thing. You can go at the back of your pionneer head unit, unhook the speaker wires from it, and extend these wires to your amp. Easiest route imho. I don't follow.. right now how it's connected is with the harness I understand the RCA plugs to the amp but I'm talking about the speaker outputs from the amp if I wasn't clear on the last part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 yeah. that's right. Right now, you should have all the speaker wires coming from all four speakers all the way behind your pioneer deck right? Then, unhook these wires from the deck, add wire extensions to these all the way to the amp. Also, you'll have to run rca wires from the amp to the deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 yeah. that's right. Right now, you should have all the speaker wires coming from all four speakers all the way behind your pioneer deck right? Then, unhook these wires from the deck, add wire extensions to these all the way to the amp. Also, you'll have to run rca wires from the amp to the deck. Yeah right now yes the factory wire goes to the harness to the back of the head unit so I'd unhook that and run the remote lead to the amp and the RCA connection and connect what I need to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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