VF40 goes Kaboom

[Max Capacity]

here's a link to junk yards prices.

 

http://car-part.com/

[JmP6889928]

Couple of ideas. The first one is truly awesome, but it would require you to build the engine. The second is some sources of used engines.

 

http://www.subaruperformanceengines.com/imagepages/image20.html

 

Post 113

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p8.html

 

Look in the IDEA sticky up above. A LOT of good information in there from everyone on the forum.

[MoarBoost]

those closed deck blocks are totally baller. I'm going to see if I can't pick up a motor locally though. Its quality may be questionable, but I'll spend some time going over it to try to make it at least temporarily reliable. After I get the car back up and running, I want to tear down the original motor and see what its condition is and possibly rebuild it and get it back in the car. Thanks for the helpful links, guys.

[Merc6]

True, but the number of those that got lucky is in the single digits. The OP is not one of them.

 

This is true. I've generally not been a very lucky person

 

Yeah my odds were horrible as well. Before I owned a Subaru I just knew turning the key and having gas in the tank is how it runs. A little over a year or 2 I found out how the insides work, or stop working.

[MoarBoost]

Welp... the available, cheap and geographically close engine I had my eye on just got bought out from under my nose.

 

Are there any telltale signs I can look for to decide whether or not to do a complete engine rebuild? Some people have mentioned it's often just the heads that need cleaning. I'll be pulling the oil pan first to clean it up as best as possible and inspect for fouling. Anything else I should be looking for specifically? Who's rebuilt these motors after the turbo grenaded?

 

BTW, KillerB oil sump came in the mail and I'm picking up a used Grimmspeed uncatted uppipe soon.

[MilesA]

...Are there any telltale signs I can look for to decide whether or not to do a complete engine rebuild? Some people have mentioned it's often just the heads that need cleaning...

I think what those people were saying is they were able to reuse their old heads on a new shortblock, after the heads were cleaned and rebuilt by a machine shop.

 

Since you drove so far after the turbo failed, your shortblock is probably toast. Your heads might be recoverable, but that's not a sure thing.

 

P.S. On the rebuilding question, you can check out the posts in the CARdiac ICU forum. Some people have chosen to do a rebuild on their shortblock, instead of buying a new one. But it doesn't really save much money unless you want to use different parts than you get with a new shortblock, and it takes more time.

Edited August 18, 2017 by MilesA

[MoarBoost]

Thanks for the feedback. So, being a noob, some of the regularly-thrown-around terminology is kind of lost on me. At first I thought "you need a new shortblock" meant that you either needed to get a new motor or rebuild it. Does YNANSB mean exactly that: the block?

 

Also something that's a little frustrating is the lack of specificity. I've read a lot of posts that talk about the the turbo being "toast" or "spent" or it "went" or the motor is "gone." When INANSB, what does that really mean? Are the sleeves gouged by unlubricated pistons? Are the oil passages damaged beyond repair, or just horribly clogged? Are bearing cradles damaged beyond repair because of spun bearings?

 

Please trust that I've been poring through engine rebuild threads, I just thought I'd ask that specific question here. Thanks and sorry for the extreme noobitude

[MilesA]

A shortblock is a brand new assembly from the factory. It has a new crank, bearings, rods, pistons, rings in a new engine block, but no heads and no accessories. It costs around $1800 if you shop around.

 

At some point, it becomes more cost effective to buy a new shortblock than to tear down the old engine, machine it, put in new bearings, crank, rods, pistons, rings, etc.

 

A new shortblock is less work and everything has been assembled at the factory with high precision. It does not require any machine work. Plus, it is absolutely pristine and new with no debris trapped in the oil passages.

 

So, the most common way to do an engine rebuild is to buy a new shortblock, new oil pump, new oil cooler, get your old heads rebuilt and assemble the engine that way.

[seanyb505]

The thing to watch out for on heads is that the head casting is the cam bearing. If junk got between the cams and the head, the heads may not be salvageable. Edited August 19, 2017 by seanyb505

[Merc6]

The thing to watch out for on heads is that the head casting is the cam bearing. If junk got between the cams and the head, the heads may not be salvageable.

 

What was the rule on that, like a fingernail catches it you done effed up A-A-ron?

 

Here is mine for example....

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/th_95CEDB98-1FF1-4B60-BF45-8C1514718286_zpstf8peuda.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/th_29932E38-3D05-42FE-9CE9-8E93089755AE_zpscmhsgpcl.jpg

[1-3-2-4]

^ that's like normal wear.. mine was far worse

[JmP6889928]

What was the rule on that, like a fingernail catches it you done effed up A-A-ron?

 

Here is mine for example....

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/th_95CEDB98-1FF1-4B60-BF45-8C1514718286_zpstf8peuda.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/th_29932E38-3D05-42FE-9CE9-8E93089755AE_zpscmhsgpcl.jpg

 

Those are fine. Machine shop will polish them up and you'll be good to go.

[MilesA]

What was the rule on that, like a fingernail catches it you done effed up A-A-ron?...

There are specs in the service manual for camshaft journal clearance:

0.055 — 0.090 mm (0.0022 — 0.0035 inches)

 

If the camshafts and their journals can be polished without exceeding those clearances, that should be OK. I'm not a machinist, though.

[MoarBoost]

Reviving an old thread, but just wanted to say (if anybody cares anymore): all of my fixes above worked. The above rebuild happened around 78,000 miles and I now have 120,000 miles on the car with the VF52 that replaced the VF40. I've since moved halfway across the country with a uhaul trailer in tow and just recently hauled 800lbs of lumber in the back of the wagon 800 miles. I didn't need a new short block after all. That is all.

 

carry on.