heiche Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Congrats (although I have no ideas on the apparent loss of compression). How does the transmission sound/feel? BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 yeah. That's strange. I guess this could happen if the cylinders become completely dry?? It needs some oil to keep compression up right? I have only done 10 miles or so. Not driving it much cause I need an alignment. Trans feels fine so far. You can tell the clutch/flywheel combo is grabby. No real shudder at all. clutch pedal is surprisingly not that hard to press compared to my other car, which supposedly has the same clutch kit.. Can't hear any whining so far. I need to drive it more though to confirm all of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 one noob question.. I keep hearing you have to break in the clutch. From what I read, it sounds like you want to avoid glazing the clutch surface as well as mess up the flywheel surface. So to do that, one has to avoid slipping the clutch. I buy that. Do you agree? Also, can I WOT that thing once the clutch is fully engaged or I'd have to wait 500 miles or so first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigleben Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 From what I understand about clutch break-in is to avoid excessive slippage of the clutch (naturally you have to slip a bit when rolling off a start) and also avoid heavy load on the drivetrain (WOT for example) for the first hundred miles. I went this way when breaking in my SB stg2 endurance + OEM SMFW without issue so far. You don't really want to risk to mess things up after all the time and effort, do you ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Update and question . I have done about 2k so far. The whining, which I complained about in this thread is officially gone. But since I've changed several parts, I am not sure if I should attribute it to the failed center diff, or some other random bearings I've changed, or the crappy DM flywheel. Now, I have a noise that is driving me nuts. It either sounds like TOB rattle or fork rattle on the pivot point or something. Do note that I made sure to grease the TOB sliding area, and the pivot point as well during install. This is not a whining sound btw. It is more like a rattle or grinding sound and only happens at low rpm and high load. I know you are not supposed to do that and I generally don't. But I just noticed it and can repeat it in any gear. Here is a video of it I made last night. Hopefully you can hear the noise in it. Headphones may help. You'll notice towards the end that I was like in a 'eureka' moment . Cause I noticed the sound was going away if I was slightly pressing on the clutch pedal while accelerating. Thoughts? Note: in the video, I am kinna blipping the throttle pedal. I am not constantly applying high load to the engine. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGTGseegy2s]High load/low rpm clutch related noise - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 "slightly press in the clutch pedal" Trying to figure out why that makes a change...as the TOB should not be spinning before you press on the pedal. With the engine off, can you reach in and wiggle the top of the clutch fork ? I have never tried that and don't have a car right now to test it on. I would think there should be a little play. If not then may be the TOB is contacting the PP. I'll also say, my cars don't like being driven at low rpm in a high gear. The wagon is more picky about that then the Spec B. The wagon with a OEM SMFW doesn't like 40mph in 5th gear. It will make a noise. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 To be honest, I have to press it a bit, not just 'slightly'... Funny you ask about checking the clutch fork. I actually did that this morning as I was also checking for vacuum leaks and fixing a loose cv boot. Here is the video. What do you think? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5p9jMv_4pNI]Checking clutch fork play. - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Had to watch the video on my new iphone because I can't view videos here at work. That play looks normal, you need a small amount. I would almost say it looks a little low, hardtop tell from the video. that piston from the slave cylinder should move straight back, not at a downward angle when you push in the clutch pedal. Sorry for not watching this sooner. I'll try and keep up better. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Wonder if this would help? BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 ^Yeah. I've seen these threads about adding a spring and stuff. But I would rather not do that if possible. Also, they put that spring to get rid of that chirping. But the noise I hear is not chirping. At idle and whenever the clutch is engaged, there is no chirping whatsoever. Although I admit that spring would still fix the problem I have. Essentially, it appears that the piston is pushing the clutch fork just enough to cause this annoying grinding/rattle that I can hear under fairly heavy load between 1.8-2.5k rpm. I believe most of our cars do that but this one does it too much I think. So I wonder if there is way to adjust how much the piston can retract in the slave cylinder. Do you guys know? I need to check the FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 I'm wondering, is the fork cracked and beginning to fail ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 So I wonder if there is way to adjust how much the piston can retract in the slave cylinder. Do you guys know? I need to check the FSM. Not that I know of. Maybe you could loosen the bolts to it, and see if there is any wiggle room, then tighten it back down. I doubt it would be much though. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 I'm wondering, is the fork cracked and beginning to fail ? I carefully inspected it before install and it looked just fine. But I recall having the thought of 'should I get a new one just in case?'. And of course I did not . Not that I know of. Maybe you could loosen the bolts to it, and see if there is any wiggle room, then tighten it back down. I doubt it would be much though. I thought the same thing. I can always try but IIRC, there is not much wiggle room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Another bump to my thread I meant to ask the following for a while now: since I've installed my new clutch set-up, I've been hearing some kind of 'flap'/'thump' each time I press the clutch pedal during the first two minutes of driving when the engine is cold. Then, it goes away. Any idea? Do you think it may be due to the fact that I have not flushed the clutch master cylinder after the clutch install? so perhaps there is a bit of air in the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I would guess your thought about air in the system...would be a easy thing to bleed out... I know it seems like if it ain't one thing its another... what's going to go wrong next... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Yeah. I am actually in the process of getting rid of the dampener on the master cylinder so as to 'improve clutch feel'. This obviously implies that I bleed the system out. So we shall see how it goes once I am done with that mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 I may have found the problem: the clutch fork is not properly secured to the pivot ball. As a result she rattles pretty bad. When you guys reinstalled the fork, did you have to use a mallet to get it to 'stick' to the pivot ball? I saw a video of a guy doing that. I did not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 No hammer, the fork just clips on ball. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Yeah. With that retention spring holding it place right. Now, I believe I may have flipped that spring . So right now, the fork is staying in place thanks to the slave cylinder. Then under high load, low rpm, you hear the vibration/noise I've been referring to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Just in case, you guys are more than welcome to chime in on this thread. I am getting frustrated now.. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/getting-frustrated-clutch-pedal-adjustment-268995.html? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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