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My 2005 Legacy iPod input hack -- no blank CD required!


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Sweet, and this will use the dock connector so we only have one wire to the ipod? Also, is there an "option" for getting the audio switcher intead of the relay? It seems that with all the hard work you're putting into the product, it would be a shame to not take that extra step. (My knowledge of 12v triggers and "audio switchers" is quite limited.)
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Well...I am including a 1/8" cable out for people that don't own an iPod. If you want to wire it up so that you have one wire to the iPod, then it will cost more because the cost of the iPod Dock Cable is about 5x the cost of a 1/8" cable.

 

But if you wanted to go that route, I would wire up the iPod cable so that it charges the iPod at the same time and I would still include the Ground Loop Isolator to eliminate noise.

 

Unfortunately, since I have already ordered a batch of boards, I won't be able to change the design to use anything but the relay. We went with the relay because it was rated for a high number of switches.

 

So, anybody that buys this board will have the thump at higher volumes(>6). It isn't noticeable at low volumes (<3).

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  • 3 weeks later...
finally i fall apon a solution. i haven't kept up on this in a while. and glad there is something above the blank cd idea. i am very interested in doing this/having this done. how difficult to you think installing something like this is on your own. like if i were to purchase the board you are having/had made. Sending it to you is pricey but i think just about worth it. although a week without a radio and air/heat controls in winter doesn't sound like much fun.
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If you have done a modchip or other advanced type soldering, my instructions will guide you step-by-step on how to do this - should take 4-6 hours to do the install from beginning to end.

 

The cost of just the fully -tested Aux-Input board will be $75. Includes all wires (30 awg for SAT button and other wires for other connections). Includes a Ground Loop Isolator and RCA to 1/8" cable so that you can have RCAs or 1/8" out.

 

If you have me install it, it will be $250 and will include return shipping in the Continental USA. Should take me about 1-2 days to do the install depending on work and where you are in the queue.

 

I originally wanted to do a swap type system, but I don't have a spare radio to use. If someone wants to sell me one inexpensively, then this would work better.

 

I should have the instructions finalized this weekend and am installing this into another car on Sunday.

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So, if one were to play with the 'Sat/Aux' button, it would require a latching relay in there, the problem with that is that you'd need to hit the 'Sat/Aux' button a second time to turn off the Aux input, to listen to something else.

So, what if you created a circuit the made sure the FM circuit was pulling form the FM side of the circuit, not the AUX, when any of the other buttons are pushed?

it wouldn't be that hard really, i suppose it would use alot more relays though.. and be alot of extra work.. but if one were to create such a circuit, then you wouldn't have to put the 'Sat/Aux' button to turn off the aux.. you could just switch between the audio inputs normally...

anyone play with that idea yet? if not i think i'm going to have a little fun :icon_bigg

it's just a big Electrical If Statement....

Here, this explains my idea better:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/auxswitch.jpg

Now, i'm no EE, but i'm pretty sure that's not that hard to make work....

d'oh.. wouldn't a gate chip work for this... ?

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That would work if you could get all of those things to input correctly into the head unit's amplifier. Those all come in at different points. So you would have to wire all that up to your switch or rewire the 4-button switch included...A lot more work, soldering, trace cutting, etc...basically rewiring the entire radio.
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That would work if you could get all of those things to input correctly into the head unit's amplifier. Those all come in at different points. So you would have to wire all that up to your switch or rewire the 4-button switch included...A lot more work, soldering, trace cutting, etc...basically rewiring the entire radio.

Sounds like fun... i may end up just throwing a latching relay on the sat button, and "deal with" having to press it twice... :icon_bigg

Hey, i just noticed you live in Warner, i live right down the road in Bradford... well.. currently at school, but normally live there :icon_wink

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REALLY...that's close (like 15 minutes close) :)

 

I used a latching relay in my board which is why you can use the SAT button; but like you said you have to press it a second time to turn it off (otherwise it will continue playing if you press CD and mix both audio sources - easy to press button if you notice this).

 

I tried to install it this past weekend into someone's radio, but I think there was something wrong with their board because we kept getting static, so I ended up giving them the board from my radio. I will try to diagnose it more this week/weekend.

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Ok...update on my solution.

 

I am NOT going to be installing this into people's cars; I will sell the board but not install it - too much liability for the cost!

 

Here are my reasons:

1.) I did an install over the weekend and when I cut the traces, there was still some bleeding when the FM was selected. This was before I added my board. Something wrong with the board. So I pull the board out of my working radio and install it into that one and vow to look at the non-working board when I get my patience back.

When I look at it and finally get it to a state where it no longer bleeds at volume above 10, I go to install it in my car and the A/C screen doesn't work!

 

This is the second time that I have seen the A/C screen not work anymore. The first time was on a spare radio that I had disassembled for about 2 months. Put it together and no A/C screen.

 

So, I figure that since I don't know the history of people's cars (how many times the radio has been removed, etc, I am not going to perform this install on people's cars. If it bleeds like the bad board I had or the A/C screen stops working, then I will be liable for getting that person a replacement radio which is higher than the cost of my board + installation.

 

SORRY!

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Hmm...I'm wondering what the cost is of the 07 stereo/ac dash. For some reason I recall the '05 one, new, was $280 or something. Just thinking it might be less effort to just swap in an 07 that is already rigged for Aux...
Give a man a beer, and he'll waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he'll waste a lifetime.
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Hmm...I'm wondering what the cost is of the 07 stereo/ac dash. For some reason I recall the '05 one, new, was $280 or something. Just thinking it might be less effort to just swap in an 07 that is already rigged for Aux...
You're mistaken. New, the OEM headunit is approx $600.
[CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER]
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So, to further my progress with this project, i drew up a schematic using a flipflop, and some FET's (field effect transistors), so there's no a loud 'thud' when you change the inputs

i think this will work....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/auxcircuit2.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

 

Wow... old thread... i have something similar to that working... back in the day i actually finished my circuit, installed it, and just never posted about it :lol:

I used a J-K flip-flop (read latching relay), and a cellphone surface mount audio switch (3x3mm!!!), with a lot of tiny wiring, and all sorts of jazz, it works.

 

Also, you're always going to get a 'thump' unless you regulate the voltage, i still get the 'thump' even with the 'true' audio switch. :spin:

but it does work realllly nice, especially w/ the 4th button on the radio selector ;)

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I finally got around to doing this. I simply ran the two cables out to a DPST switch and ran my phone into the switch. Not much thump while switching and zero engine noise. Even while charging. I am very very happy with the sound quality and am glad I took the simple route.

 

I highly advise against this if you have never soldered before. I have a lot of surface mount rework experience and even this made me a bit nervous.

 

I took the back, front and bottom plates off. I left the CD player and everything else assembled.

 

Took me about 2 hours. I will install my motorola t605 bluetooth later.

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  • 1 year later...

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