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My 2005 Legacy iPod input hack -- no blank CD required!


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To avoid the thumping you need to use an audio switching chip. It shouldn't be a very complicated circuit, however, you'll need to find a 5v power supply (or add one) and you'd need a something to actuate the switch (button or something). It's a bunch more elegant and having no thump would be nice, but personally - I don't have any more free time to spend on it - and I'm so much happier with the car now that I can use my iPod in it.
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Since you were able to locate the point in which the FM tuner can be tapped prior to the pre-amp, did you happen to come across any points at which the audio goes into the pre-amp? Does the pre-amp take the CD/AM/FM sources seperately or do they join prior to the pre-amp? The reason I ask this is that it is obviously possible to locate a point in which can be tapped to obtain an AUX output..similar, but opposite to the ipod hookup..for those of use who are interested in hooking up an amplified sub system or even an entirly externally amplified system without spending $$ on the cleansweep or converting from the speaker level output. All that would be required would be a sufficient line driver.

 

Any guidance on this?

I will be taking a gander around the boards for this when I attach my Ipod, but working without a scope makes it difficult, not impossible, but just more difficult.

 

renfrey.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Is there a way to intercept the signal coming from the AM radio reciever going into the factory amp and input your own signal onto that input? I could care less if I never listen to AM radio ever again and if were possible to take over that option on the factory headunit, it would seem like an ideal solution to me? I don't know if it's even possible, I don't know enough about how information is moved around inside a radio but I was just curious.
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Thats what I did. I bypassed the AM with AUX but the FM and CD still function.

I know you've read about this solution involving tuner: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21047

Is it possible to use his switch and relay but hook it up between AM and the amp? I like the idea of using the AM button for aux. If once in a blue moon I need to listen to AM stations, I'd use the switch.

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ipoduser has put a switch between the tuner and the amp. What you doing is disabling AM function and using AM contacts for your AUX and AM button to switch to the AUX. Right?

I want to do what you did with one addition. I'd like to have a switch similar to ipoduser's. When I press AM button, the radio would play the source depending on the switch - either AUX or AM. Do you think it's hard to do?

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Thats what I did. I bypassed the AM with AUX but the FM and CD still function.

 

I must have been reading too many threads. I though you were modifying the selector switch to add a 4th downward option and using some sort of satalite/aux input on the radio. That must have been another thread.

 

Where are you running the input into on the radio? I saw your post earlier about the AM swtich when it is activated and disabled but I didn't see where your actually running the input into the radio. I apologize if this has already been covered and I just don't understand it. Thank you.

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I finished my mod this weekend. Works great. I used a much smaller relay, one from radio shack which is meant for computers, but is still a 12v DPDT relay. Being that it is not carrying much current (almost nil), you can use a small relay which results in eliminating the speaker thumps when you switch. I also used some small shielded cable to reduce the noise.

 

I was considering removing the two pins coming from the radio, but ended up opting against that because of the capacitors (just above the pins), which go to ground. The potential problem here is that when you have the aux in activated, and you take the resistance of your aux in device with the capacitor going to ground and you have a low pass filter. Since I could not determine the value of the capacitor (which would give me the frequency of the filter it would create), i just cut the traces and went that route.

 

Great mod!

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I finished my mod this weekend. Works great. I used a much smaller relay, one from radio shack which is meant for computers, but is still a 12v DPDT relay. Being that it is not carrying much current (almost nil), you can use a small relay which results in eliminating the speaker thumps when you switch. I also used some small shielded cable to reduce the noise.

 

I was considering removing the two pins coming from the radio, but ended up opting against that because of the capacitors (just above the pins), which go to ground. The potential problem here is that when you have the aux in activated, and you take the resistance of your aux in device with the capacitor going to ground and you have a low pass filter. Since I could not determine the value of the capacitor (which would give me the frequency of the filter it would create), i just cut the traces and went that route.

 

Great mod!

Do you remember what relay did you use? Eliminating of the thumps would be very desirable!

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instead of using a relay use an analog switch like this one

 

http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/36658935ssm2404.pdf

 

$6.54 each from www.digikey.com part num ssm2404p-nd you'll need a 20 pin dip header as well to make your life easier when you assemble it and a little piece of breadboard. or just solder directly to the pins and shrink wrap the whole thing. either way, the PDF pretty much tells you exactly what you need to do. big hint - figure 22

 

gotta figure out exactly how I want to do this mod. whatever the answer is, it has to look 100% stock. I'll probalby steal the "sat" button on the HU and add a latching relay to hold the trigger for the analog switch. I haven't dug too deep but it seems like it should be pretty easy to do. I'll have to pull the thing apart and answer a few Qs for myself, then make a digikey order.

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instead of using a relay use an analog switch like this one

 

http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/36658935ssm2404.pdf

 

$6.54 each from www.digikey.com part num ssm2404p-nd you'll need a 20 pin dip header as well to make your life easier when you assemble it and a little piece of breadboard. or just solder directly to the pins and shrink wrap the whole thing. either way, the PDF pretty much tells you exactly what you need to do. big hint - figure 22

 

gotta figure out exactly how I want to do this mod. whatever the answer is, it has to look 100% stock. I'll probalby steal the "sat" button on the HU and add a latching relay to hold the trigger for the analog switch. I haven't dug too deep but it seems like it should be pretty easy to do. I'll have to pull the thing apart and answer a few Qs for myself, then make a digikey order.

Please update us with details. I for one don't know much about electronics but can follow directions :)

The satellite button would be very nice. Someone here was trying to work in this direction but could not finish it.

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I can send you more detailed instructions on which lines to cut if you want...or you can use an Ohmeter (as I did) to figure it out?

 

Or if you want, you can send me your board and I can do it for you??

 

It takes some fine soldering with 30 guage (AWG) wire.

 

Does your offer still stands? I'd like to use the Sat button if it's possible.

Thanks

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That analog switch would most deffinetly be the best option. As for the relay that I am using, I will have to make a trip out to the shack again, as I have already thrown out the packaging and the relay itself is sealed up pretty good. I have also noticed now that the switch that you use makes a difference as well. I tried a couple of different switches and found that some did cause a pop when the source was switched.
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That analog switch would most deffinetly be the best option. As for the relay that I am using, I will have to make a trip out to the shack again, as I have already thrown out the packaging and the relay itself is sealed up pretty good. I have also noticed now that the switch that you use makes a difference as well. I tried a couple of different switches and found that some did cause a pop when the source was switched.

 

I've ordered the analog switch a few minutes ago :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
I've used the analog switch and with help of mvigneau made the SAT button do the switching. Everything is pretty good, but the audible thump is there :(

 

oh that sucks, I've got a couple of them on my workbench but haven't had a chance to sit down and build them up. work pretty much owns me right now. I'll have to ping off of one of the EEs here at work.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I tried to do this mod in my single zone auto HVAC LHD 2.0R Legacy. Too bad the board is completely different to the US version, and I couldn't find the traces of the radio (I found several traces around the tuner, but I couldn't identify which one was an input or output).

 

I have a little electronics training, but I'm no expert. Anyone tried this mod in a non-us radio?

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  • 3 months later...

Hey guys...expanding on this idea, I have created my own board (a reissue of my non-silent CD board) since Jazzy's board seemed to fit people's idea of what they wanted.

 

This one uses methods from here but also some methods that I was trying to incorporate into my previous version.

 

Such as:

 

1.) Uses the Tuner outputs, so when using the Aux-in (iPod), it will look like there is a radio station playing...either FM/AM.

 

2.) To switch to Aux-in, you press the 4th (unlabeled button) on the AM/FM/CD button. It is directly across from CD. You can't press it unless you remove the bumper behind it. If you have me install this, this will be done for you.

 

3.) I have noticed the thump on this solution. It is because of the relay switch I am using. I decided to go with the Relay instead of an audio switch because it is a more robust solution.

 

4.) It requires cutting traces (4) on your radio - Tuner R/L and behind the switch.

 

I will be installing this into DV8ingVector's car either this weekend or next weekend and we will take pictures and create a write-up. This is NOT an easy solution and requires cutting traces as well as opening up the radio.

 

If you are not comfortable with that, I am offering my services to install this for people. You send me your radio, I modify it (can take up to a week depending on how busy I am) and I send it back in the box that you sent it in. The cost of this will include a Ground-Loop Isolator and your choice of 1/8" or RCA outputs on the end of it as well as return shipping. Not sure of the price for this as I don't know how many hours it will take. When I finish up DV8ingVector's install, I will have a better idea. But expect the installation to cost ~$250.

 

I understand this may be a little steep for people, but I need to offset the time and difficulty of this method.

 

I am putting together a final price list for a completed board because I have had the boards made through a PCB firm so that every board is the same - but expect a completed board for YOU to install to be ~$75.

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  • 2 weeks later...
When I finish up DV8ingVector's install, I will have a better idea. But expect the installation to cost ~$250.

 

I understand this may be a little steep for people, but I need to offset the time and difficulty of this method.

 

I am putting together a final price list for a completed board because I have had the boards made through a PCB firm so that every board is the same - but expect a completed board for YOU to install to be ~$75.

 

Any updates? Pics of the whole process? Have you decided on a final price for you to do the install?

:icon_mrgr

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We have installed it successfully in DV8ingVector's car and it sounds good!

 

Anyways. We are putting the final touches on the images for the write-up.

 

The cost for me to install is going to be $250. Expect it to take me 2 days to install the board during the week or 1/2 day on the weekend.

 

You will have to send me your radio unless you want to drive to Warner, NH.

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