Bobsousley Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Just bought a 2010 2.5, automatic tranny... picked it up cheap off a kid in town here as it is a salvage title. 116k miles. I know timing belt/water pump needs done, will take care of that with a friends help. collision was on driver front fender area. Car goes down the road straight, doesnt pull while driving, accelerating, or when braking. At idle everything sounds ok, but under some throttle it sounds like it may be missing just a bit, yet doesnt throw a light. Its also accompanied by a vibration as you give it gas. when in park, give it some gas and there's a distinct hum if you can call it that at about the 1000-1500 rpm range that gets higher/lower in pitch as the rpm's increase/decrease. Shift into gear and rpm's drop low, not quite to a stall before they recover back to normal. turn on a/c and once again they dip, not as bad when shifting into gear though. (just a thought...wondering if any of this can be attributed to a stretched timing belt?) I knew going into this purchase there was work to be done. having never had a subaru, just looking for some direction and ideas on where to start. when it's done, hoping for a few things...1) a car that'll get my daughter through highschool, maybe even college, 2) gain knowledge of this car to be able to work on it without going to the dealer or a shop every time, 3)and to not have a money pit. Always in the back of my mind to let the next guy enjoy a project, and buy something turnkey. Any poiters are well appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 aftermarket cv joint? time for new plugs, perhaps... coils in good shape? rum some cleaner through it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsousley Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 I noticed this morning that rpm drop is electrical, happens when almost anything that demands electricity is activated, for example window buttons lock buttons AC on, more current pulled, more rpms will drop a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenII Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 I noticed this morning that rpm drop is electrical, happens when almost anything that demands electricity is activated, for example window buttons lock buttons AC on, more current pulled, more rpms will drop a bit. As for the hesitation, it's probably going to be a coil pack...that's for sure what it was on my car and had the same issue ONLY under heavy acceleration. You'd actually see the RPMs stall... For the drop in RPMs while putting the alternator under load...that could be due to full fielding, this...well, that's a problem specifically with the alternator. How much of a drop are we talking? Significant? or you just see the needle move? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 I would 1st do the timing belt and spark plugs (the maintenance schedule is every 60k miles) and inspect the coils while doing the plugs. Then see how it run from that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 I'm going to guess that the vibration when accelerating is probably one of the two front axles. Get under the car, grab them and try to move them. If one is bad, it will move a significant amount. Only use OEM new or remanufactured axles, aftermarket ones don't work well in Subies. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsousley Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 I dont get any play when grabbing the axles or anything else for that matter in the whole front end there. hard to explain, but its a frequency type vibration, not a constant vibration, but every few seconds you feel and hear it, and pitch/feel changes with speed. And not apparent at lower speeds. I wont be able to get to the timing belt, plugs/coils for a few days, too busy at work this week. Plan on getting the Aisin tkf006 kit w/water pump, have heard good things. I noticed that Amazon had it for sale from an outfit in new york that it looks like sells a lot of them, but the notes on amazon stated it would be for vehicle with a manual tranny. Shouldnt make a difference which transmission should it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsousley Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 As for the hesitation, it's probably going to be a coil pack...that's for sure what it was on my car and had the same issue ONLY under heavy acceleration. You'd actually see the RPMs stall... For the drop in RPMs while putting the alternator under load...that could be due to full fielding, this...well, that's a problem specifically with the alternator. How much of a drop are we talking? Significant? or you just see the needle move? Drops a couple hundred rpm say if you try to roll up a window that isnt down, and its causing it to draw extra amperage, very noticable. not quite to the point of stalling before it rebounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeryan Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 I recently purchased a 2012 2.5i 6MT and I’m noticing he same rpm drop from electrical use, especially windows up or down. Also while at idle and in neutral I’m noticing a subtle drop in rpm that happens every 2-3 seconds consistently while the heat is on. Any updates on what you found to be the culprit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTC45 Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Hey im looking for a good after market Timing Belt Kit, im passed 150,000 km. Any dashboard fixes for melting dashboards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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