RavenII

Perfect, ordering all 4 now... Thanks man

Ok, I'm looking to buy and replace all...3? Of them, or is it 4? The parts diagram only shows 3 but I'm reading there's actually 4. Is it that there's a right and left upper (intake) and the exhaust ones are the same number for both?

That the same thing as an OCV?

Hello, All I've got a '10 3.6r Limited with 170k on the clock and I've noticed a few things that I'm trying to pinpoint the cause of... When cold, lately I notice that the RPMs are fairly erratic. They jump up (as expected), but then don't stay stable, there're drops in the RPM almost as if though someone is revving the engine at like 1 second intervals. It normalizes after about 30 seconds, with the occasional spurt here and there until it's warm. The next issue, which I think might be related, is that when coasting/cruising along at around 40mph, the car feels like it's jerking. The RPM visibly dips, then it throws out the 246 bank misfire code. No other codes, just that. I've changed the coils and plugs less than 10k miles ago. OH...also, the economy gauge fluctuates. The only other thing that is a possibly related symptom...when warm, if I tap the gas (while in park), the RPM goes up as expected, but then dips low (450-500ish) then goes back to "normal". Keywords for those who search in the future: Stutter, stuttering, sporadic, stall, stalling

Interesting, now that's some perspective, I guess 12.5 doesn't seem so bad now... Maybe I'll go check it out...

My biggest issue is that it takes for EVER to find a nice any 3.6 in my area...hell when I bought my 2010 3.6 in 2016, I looked for almost 8 months before finally finding it, and I didn't even like the color haha. Thank you all for the input...Beamercub, in the future maybe elaborate on *why*, what maybe a big deal or issue for you, might be negligible for someone else. Like the dated interior comment, for me it's not an issue as I have a full sound setup along with an iPad mounted in my dash, but your input can be valuable. The car had Arkansas plates, but the seller was in WI, so that was kinda a red flag for me...'10 that I bought was from a private party, who was a psychologist and took VERY good care of the car. The car that intiated this post had front end damage reported, and of course the guy said that it was minor....but a 2015 with 95k for 12.5k.....that's a little hard to justify I think....unless I'm wrong. Thanks again everyone!

Hello all, As the title states, I'm looking at a fairly clean 3.6r Limited with ~95k on the clock...aside from the usual things to check, what should I know about the CVT on this car? I'm not a fan of CVT to begin with, but I like the Legacy so much that I'm going to overlook it...any way of testing, things/sounds to look out for? Should I avoid it all together? Thanks in advance!

Funny, I was about to ask if anyone knew a shop north of Chicago...looking for someone more good than cheap. I'm looking to get my oil pan and timing cover gasket changed. The pan is russssted. I mean, to the point where I'm afraid of poking too hard....the oil pan. Or...maybe I should just swap the engine, it's got 149 on the clock... Anyone know of a reasonably priced, but good shop?

Can it be done in place? or do I have to pull the motor?...I wouldn't mind doing it, it just seems like it would be a pain....

My baby is leaking oil from the timing cover...and I would like to get it repaired...one guy told me it'll cost 5 to 7......THOUSAND dollars. After laughing, I told him I'd rather buy an engine lift and used motor, and spend the other 3-5 grand on Hookers and Blow (kidding, I don't do blow)... Anyone know of a reasonable shop to take it to?

Haha, at least you guys get to tow something, I've never even plugged anything into the receiver... I wonder if I still have a pair of springs from my Caprice...now THOSE were springs.

Gotcha, that makes sense, pop out, pop in...bada bing, bada boom... I planned on using the 13/14 OEM springs from the dealer. This whole suspension endeavor started because I was bottoming out on my trailer hitch, now I'm thinking of a straight up performance suspension... I still don't understand how people lower this car without bottoming out....but, I'm sure some more reading will help me find the answer. I f'ing LOVE this forum.

Wait, can't I drop the Koni inserts in my current front housings?...add stock springs and BAM!... Nevermind, I found my answer...

Aha, I see, that's going to be a good option for the future (the Koni + KYB housings). I had emailed KYB after posting my question here and got this reply... In fact, the part numbers for the rear differ from 2010-12 (PN: 340026) and the 2013/14 (P/N: 340043). It's a shame they don't make them for the 13/14 under the actual KYB Brand, they're substantially less expensive than the dealer cost, but c'est la vie. I wonder how sachs would work out, had'em on my 5 series a while ago...

Got it, when doing the Koni swap, did you lose like a half inch or is that only if you use the WRX housings? I'm not doing the Koni swap, but was just curious. I'm just hoping that if I do get these, they're not the same marshmallowy spec that the 10-12 have, I hope they're as stiff (or slightly stiffer) than the 13/14 Dealer ones...being that they're made by the same people. Haha, thanks man.

I found the following KYB part numbers, but it doesn't seem that they make front struts for the 13/14...the part numbers (for the front) below are only for 10-12...would you say that it's safe to buy them still? or should I just do dealer 13/14 for the front, and Excel-Gs for the rear...? KYB Excel-G Front right 339222 Front left 339223 Rear 340026

Ah, I gotcha, right, because you'd have to compensate camber for the drop in height. Mannn, I was trying to remember who that was from around my neck of the woods, but have been forgetting to go through my first few posts from when I first signed up to find out. I really have to take you up on your offer one of these days. Maybe meet up at Woodfield or something. I get to see what a Lego with proper sway bars and a tune feels like, and I get to remind you of what it feels like to take turns in a tugboat. Hah! There's a dude in Wheeling selling a Tactrix (hope he still has it) so I'm definitely looking to get this thing tuned. It'll be nice to see what it feels like.

Haha, we musta posted at the same time. Thanks for the input on the stock setup, it definitely helps. I'm for sure going to get the bigger swaybars... I'm also getting the raptor headers, and a tune, but that's another thread....hah. I've got a question, why 18 vs. 19? Is it because the tire would have to be much lower in profile overall or did you just prefer 18? Thanks again, everyone.

I've already come to that conclusion mostly through reading, but that still leaves the other 2 questions in the air...Reading through the forums, it seems like there are actually quite a few options for the 3.6r with regards to suspension. For example, even you have a thread that shows you using Forester control arms on a Legacy....unnnless that was someone else, but nonetheless, it's been done. I'm just trying to sort it all out, that's all.

It's time for me to overhaul my 96K mile 3.6r's (I call her Abigail) suspension...I'm getting REALLY thrown off by all the different options/combinations out there... I know that I'm going to go with what fellow Perscitus posted here It would seem that the 2008-2014 WRX Strut/Koni setup with '14 springs is desirable, which I can dig...but then why can't you just run the Koni's that are made for a 08-14 WRX to begin with? Otherwise, I think that (as mentioned in a previous thread of mine) stock '14 3.6 parts all around is the way to go for a totally stock feel.... Do you guys get the springs from one model/year car, and shocks from another? How about front and rear? Answer here from a trusted opinion.

Tim, thanks for this post...after reading all the "OMG! It's so difficult"..."you HAVE to lift the engine"....etc., I found this post and thought..."screw it, it can't be that hard"....and dude, start to finish, 1 hour and 15 minutes. No lifting the motor, no fancy tools, I mean literally...picks, sockets, short extension, and a ratchet...that's it. I did have the car (needlessly) on ramps, because I thought I was going to have to get under the car, but all the work was done from the top. That includes removal of the intake, battery, etc. The thing that took the longest is...some of you might know that I had a misfire a while back and swapped coil 3, and ultimately during this process, I swapped it for 6, and I guess because it was newer, the harness was difficult to clip on and off...took a little clipping and unclipping to realize there was nothing wrong. That consumed like 20 minutes. One other tip I could provide that made plug 6 an absolute breeze is to unclip the harness and then push them as far down (safely) as possible. You'll notice that it's fastened to the front of the head with a clip, ease it out then you can push them out of the way almost entirely. Once they're out of the way...it's literally as easy as any other car... Hell, you guys want a challenging car...try the Nissan VG33 motor...there's a spark plug on the back of the block....NOT fun.

I'm down, are there ever any meet ups for Subaru owners? You know what, the more I look around the more I realize it's somewhat a rarity to find a 3.6 in this color.

It's my new love, she has introduced me to this wonderful group, and she's a joy to drive. My bone stock except for the HIDs (for now) 2010 Legacy 3.6R in Harvest Gold Metallic... That's not a dent...it's a dimple. http://i.imgur.com/v438aro.jpg http://i.imgur.com/3Lp020G.jpg