BMurphy Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 I have a 1997 Legacy L wagon rhd 2.2 with fuel problems. Idles fine until you give it gas then smother itself out. I have replaced the following : Fuel pump Fuel filter Fuel pressure regulator Mass air flow sensor Coil pack Crank shaft position sensor Spark plugs The catlic converters have been gutted. The car will not take off after you stop it has to idle and get rolling until the rpm's are high enough to take off. I don't know what else to do and I need this car to run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Clean the throttle body and replace the air filter. Also, I'd do a engine flush. Take out the used oil, put on a cheap oil filter and cheap oil and then run a couple ounces of seafoam in with the new cheap oil. Let it idle for 15 mins or so and then change the oil with new good quality oil and a new filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Any CEL? I'd also test the throttle position sensor, cam sensor, make sure the iacv is clean and check for vacuum leaks. How does it run with the MAF unplugged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 The car dies when i unplug MAF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Don't use a cheap filter when you flush. it won't be able to grab all the crap that you just flushed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Don't use a cheap filter when you flush. it won't be able to grab all the crap that you just flushed out. Same goes for toilet paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Was the maf oem? If you unplug the maf while off and then start it does it run? Any check engine light? Have you tested the sensors mentioned? Have you tried what Brighton suggested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 To add some detail to what I said, walmarts generic brand is the cheapest oil you can get, so pick up 5qts of that (you'll use 4.3qts) and then a purolator or equivalent basic filter, do NOT by fram anything. Purolator is the cheapest I'd go for anything, let alone an engine flush. Also walmart is the cheapest place to get seafoam, so get a can of it while you're there too. Also to save you time, the filter part number is PL14461 or L14461 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 seafoam isnt good for oil. if you have any oil build up around bad seals it will clean it and make it leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 seafoam isnt good for oil. if you have any oil build up around bad seals it will clean it and make it leak. I've heard that but good thing all the seals in my engine are less than 6 months old haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 im confused. so the car has to rev up to move? does it rev freely in neutral? maybe you're chasing a trans/converter problem? (if its automatic) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 The car has to get up to 1500-1700rpms before it gets enough gas to take off. The trans shifts fine and works great it's like the car is starving for gas and has no power. if you keep the rpms up it runs ok until you come to a stop or going up hill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 have you checked for vacuum leaks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Yeah and replaced a bunch of vacuum hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 I also took map sensor, egr valve, and throttle position sensor off replaced it with a used ones and there was no difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 just thinking of basics. have you checked compression? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Not yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 The car will sit and idle all day and never misses. Would a knock sensor cause this? Or the air idle control valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 If it was the knock sensor it'll run like poop the whole time. Idle air would cause it to not idle, but run fine otherwise. I always check the big 3 when I have an issue. Fuel, spark, and squeeze. Do a compression test, it is super easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Ok how do I do that I'm not much of a mechanic lol. I know a few things but not a lot and this is my first Subaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Compression testing is very easy. First, you need a compression gauge. Then, you just remove all 4 spark plugs, and either disconnect fuel pump relay, or pull the injector plugs on the engine (this will cause a check engine light after, but easiest way to kill the fuel). You don't want fuel spraying because it'll wash the cylinder walls down. You then screw the gauge into 1 cylinder at a time, and use the starter to turn the motor over a few times. The gauge will give you your reading, like so http://i.imgur.com/AT1nyDAl.jpg That's your compression, and it should be around 180psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 I done the compression test Cylinder 1- 160 Cylinder 2- 150 Cylinder 3- 160 Cylinder 4- 145 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wish Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 seafoam isnt good for oil. if you have any oil build up around bad seals it will clean it and make it leak. yep. that stuff blew the head gaskets on my 97 LGT a few years ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 I done the compression test Cylinder 1- 160 Cylinder 2- 150 Cylinder 3- 160 Cylinder 4- 145 I feel like cyl 4 is low. it is within 10% of the other cylinders though. Ours should be around 180PSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Why does the car smother out when I give it gas? I have changed everything that I know to do. Anyone with info plz help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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