doublechaz Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 So it idles pretty nice, but when you try to drive it you feel like it has a 25HP motor in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 it will idle good all day at 700rpms you touch the gas and it wants to die. its like it is getting the gas cut off. could it be egr valve messed up I put a used one on it after it had been cleaned? Or could it be a fuel pump relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Idle air control valve, either dirty, defective or not hooked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Would it still idle good if air idle control was bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 I suggested it because when I put my new engine in, I forgot to hook up the pipe to the intake tube and it would idle but then as soon as I pressed the gas, it acted like the timing was off and would backfire and die. Basically it works like this: In the old days with carburetors, you adjusted idle by the idle screw on the carb to allow the butterfly valve to open slightly to let air in. On newer cars, the IACV lets a little bit of air into the intake by way of bypassing the throttle body. Since this is controlled by the ECU, if the valve is stuck or sensor not working, the ECU might see it as the car is at idle. When you give it throttle input, it might not see the throttle body opening and increase your air in the AFR exponentially to the point where it chokes the engine.  What I would check is the readings on the IACV and the TPS by using a OBD probe. Somewhere in that circuit, one of them is not talking to the other. Speaking of which, have you checked the TPS at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 My vote is for jumped timing. That can leave you with an ok idle and a tiny fraction of normal power when you try to use the go pedal. And sometimes there are no check engine lights for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 I changed the TPS with a used one and there was no difference. I also changed the sensor on the IACV but haven't took the valve out to check it. I will take it out and clean it see if that helps. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 My vote is for jumped timing. That can leave you with an ok idle and a tiny fraction of normal power when you try to use the go pedal. And sometimes there are no check engine lights for this. This was my next suggestion if the TPS and IACV tested good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor294 Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 That may explain poor compression across most cylinders too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Sure could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 I was checking the timing belt out today and descovered that the crankshaft sprocket and pully are both broke where the key goes. I guess this is giving it enough room to cause it to be out of time. Hope this fixes it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 I was checking the timing belt out today and descovered that the crankshaft sprocket and pully are both broke where the key goes. I guess this is giving it enough room to cause it to be out of time. Hope this fixes it! Chaz, sounds like your issue back in the day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 Yep. It seems to only take a few degrees of movement at the crank to really F things up. I ended up having to use a special loctite (609) to keep mine together. You can get a new pully, sprocket and woodruff key (I did), but if the slot in the crank isn't a tight fit on the key you are in real trouble. OTOH, mine has held together for years with that 609. If you end up in this place and you don't just switch to a different engine, let me know and we can work through the glueing procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 I will have to glue the key. I got new pully, sprocket, and key. What's the best adhesive to use for this cause I don't want this to happen again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 Important parts of the gluing method: You should make sure your oil pump is going to be solid for years to come. I put in a new one. You should threadlock the collection of phillips screws inside the pump. You should put in a new front main seal so you won't have to worry about it. You have to get the crank nose *perfectly* clean. I used straight isopropyl alcohol, and then acetone. Yes both. You must be sure not to get any of the glue on the seal or it will be wrecked immediately. I tied to make a carboard shield that could be ripped out after, but it turned out to be too thick so I had to rip it out before tightening things. Perhaps you could very lightly oil it with a cotton swab right before gluing so the oil doesn't have time and enough volume to migrate around. You will have a *very* short time to work once the glue is applied. Practice putting the sprocket in place perfectly very quickly. When you are ready glue the inside of the sprocket. Glue the crank nose. Leave space so you don't glue the seal, but glue out to the tip so moving the sprocket won't wipe areas dry. Get the sprocket in place with correct rotational alignment. Clean the exposed crank nose. Put in the key and put the pully on and tighten it down so the sprocket seats to it's correct depth. Wait a minute and take the pulley back off without moving the sprocket. This way you shouldn't end up with the pulley glued. I think you have to wait 24 hours for the sprocket to cure. I used jbweld to fill the gaps around my key because it was wallowed out that bad. Make sure this doesn't push through to the main seal if you do it. It's probably not needed anyway. Use Loktite 609. It is designed to put gears (high torque) onto a shaft without the use of a key. Pretty much what we are doing here. It's lasted about 10 years for me. I believe that is about the limit as it does degrade in strength slowly over time when exposed to heat around 212 F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 Got the car running. The timing was what was wrong with it. Thanks everyone for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Did you end up having to glue the timing sprocket onto the crank? Glad to hear it's running! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMurphy Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 I JB welded the key on shaft put sprocket on and let it cure for 2 days. It is working great I have few little things to do to it and it will be on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Nice! On the road again is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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