OCDetails Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 If it was the stock pad, then that doesn't surprise me. The pad that comes with the PC isn't good for long. You'll definitely appreciate a nice backing plate and some new pads. One pad is great, but having a selection of different levels is even better. Especially on soft Legacy paint. I still use the Edge2000 pads. They utilize a center moutning system which screws into the PC where the backing plate goes and then the pad snaps on right in the middle. This eliminates the backing plate from hitting spoilers and hood scoops. It also gives me a double sided pad so I can quickly finish the job when the pad gets full and I need to clean it out. I believe you can get them made with different levels of foam on either side, but all mine are just the same on both. I've been a fairly loyal Edge2000 guy for probably eight or nine years now and an exclusive user for at least the past six. I absolutely love the suckers. I think you can still get them on Autogeek's site. I haven't had to order any new ones for three or four years simply because they last so long. One pad for the average guy polishing his car two or three times a year will probably last forever as long as it is kept clean and stored properly. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsquish Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 All of this talk about detailing "toys" is starting to kill me, I want to go outside and "play". But since the forecast for the next 10 days calls for rain (never mind I think it has rained for the past 4 or 5) I think I had better start building a boat..... If you don't understand that comment, Google "Findlay, Ohio flood"... OCDetails, I wish I would have noticed the Edge2000 products before I got the pads I did, hook and loop. Thanks for the advice!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 The problem I've had with hook and loop pads is that heat gets transferred into the glue holding the loop part of the pad in place. Then when you pull it off, sometimes the material become detached. They have made great progress in pad design in recent years, but it is still probably the first thing to go on the pads. Even the Edge pads aren't immortal. When mine blow out it is usually because the glue holding the two pieces together starts to separate and the force of the disc in between the two pads just rips them apart. Granted it takes a lot of hours of use before that happens, but it is the the way every single one of my Edge pads finally dies. Curse you glue!!! _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Subscribed! It's almost time for the Early Summer polish and protect! Going wash, clay, swirl abolisher I, klasse AIO, Glaze, wax, and lastly sealant... am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milesej05 Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Subscribed! It's almost time for the Early Summer polish and protect! Going wash, clay, swirl abolisher I, klasse AIO, Glaze, wax, and lastly sealant... am I missing something? I believe a 12 pack goes before the wash...Just saying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 Subscribed! It's almost time for the Early Summer polish and protect! Going wash, clay, swirl abolisher I, klasse AIO, Glaze, wax, and lastly sealant... am I missing something? You are good right up to the step after AIO. When you say 'Glaze', what do you mean? Which product are you going to be using? Also, you can't put a sealant over anything except for another sealant, so if you are using glazes and waxes, then those need to go on top of the sealant. if you are using the Klasse sealant then you need to wait a day before you put anything on top of it too. It takes usually a day for it to cure before you can layer anything. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 SO what should my order be? I have all dianase (sp?) products...I think their glaze said it can be layered over waxes...I'm at work so can't quote the bottle... Using a sealant and then layering has worked well for depth before...? I love my OBP paint but hate the work it takes to make it look "deep"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 For that product line you should be using their Paint Sealant and then the Wet Glaze. That is a killer combo. I would cut out the carnauba altogether. It isn't necessary when you are using those two products already. Just let the Sealant cure for at least 12 or 16 hours before adding additional layers. However, if you are going to use a carnauba then it would be the very last step. And only if it is a paste wax. Liquid carnaubas tend to strip layers due to the higher levels of solvents in them. Also, you may want to use the SA2 if you have it. SA1 isn't the most effective cutting compound unless you are just clearing up very light haze left over from a more aggressive cut. It also makes a good paint cleaner to ensure you have removed all the sealant or wax on the surface, so technically it could replace the AIO. Just a thought. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 For that product line you should be using their Paint Sealant and then the Wet Glaze. That is a killer combo. I would cut out the carnauba altogether. It isn't necessary when you are using those two products already. Just let the Sealant cure for at least 12 or 16 hours before adding additional layers. However, if you are going to use a carnauba then it would be the very last step. And only if it is a paste wax. Liquid carnaubas tend to strip layers due to the higher levels of solvents in them. Thanks for the reply! I was wondering if I had the order right...I knew about the wait time on the sealant but not the carnuba leaving possible haze. I'm using T100 paste... I'll make a point of getting everything VERY clean before re-application this season! Also, you may want to use the SA2 if you have it. SA1 isn't the most effective cutting compound unless you are just clearing up very light haze left over from a more aggressive cut. It also makes a good paint cleaner to ensure you have removed all the sealant or wax on the surface, so technically it could replace the AIO. Just a thought. I have been using the SA1 with good results mostly to remove hard-water spots and some very fine scratches. I'll pickup some SA2 just for good measure as I've been really happy with Danase products! SO just to reiterate: wash x 2, claybar, SA2, SA1, sealant (allow wait time), glaze, and then wax...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 Good luck finding Danase products now. He closed shop a couple years ago sadly. Give Poorboy's products a shot for your swirl removal. It is a close match to the Danase products. Honestly, the way I do it is wash, clay, maybe a quick wipe down if there are streaks from the clay, dry thoroughly so there isn't any water anywhere to make a mess when polishing, polish (in your case SA2 and SA1 if necessary. Sometimes SA2 is enough since it uses diminishing abrasives and doesn't leave haze.), sealant, cure time, glaze. The carnauba is really overkill and unnecessary. I honestly don't think you are going to see the difference between that and the combo you are using. You can use it if you want, but you are past the point of diminishing returns already with the sealant and wet glaze. I'd use another coat of wet glaze instead of carnauba if you want to amp up the appearance a bit. However, to each his own. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so you really should try whatever you like and see what you think. Get creative and experiment. it is the only way you really can learn. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lensflare Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 I love my porter cable! It makes my ducati sine quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 OCDetails - Any thoughts on a Porter Cable vs. Griots Garage? I did a quick check on Amazon against the two (both 6") and here's what I saw - Griots is $10 more - Griots is a 7amp model (not sure if this is even needed) - They both offer identical total speed ranges - PC offers a side-based handle, Griots top I am considering getting the griots model along with their pads and product - i.e. their entry kit - and wondering if there is a reason to go with one vs. the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 I would go with the 7424XP. I've had my Porter Cable for a decade and it is still running strong. I've used both machines and I definitely like my Porter Cable better given the choice. I don't even use the handle on the machine anymore, so it doesn't really matter too much. The Porter Cable has a proven track record of efficiency and reliability, so I would go with that. More than likely it is just six of one and half a dozen of the other, so you will get results from either one, but given the choice I would go with the one from a company that makes tools for a living and not just some relabeled version that I know nothing about the company who actually manufacturers it. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Thanks Man! In-stock, I have a decent amount of Klasse AIO left and Sealant Glaze. Will AIO be sufficient with a proper random orbital to remove swirl marks? I've never found it to be adequate by hand - but then, that's by hand - it will remove the marks and bird droppings and such, it just takes a ton of effort by hand. One of the reasons I was attracted to griots is that their products seem high quality and he says "totally safe when used with this buffer, use it over and over to remove every last swirl mark completely safely", etc. I still have half of my supply of AIO and Sealant Glaze I'd like to use up before moving onto new products, but I'll totally buy a new cutting polish specifically to use BEFORE AIO and SG if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 AIO won't remove swirls. It is just a chemical cleaner and has zero physical abrasives in it. Removing swirls by hand is an effort in futility anyway, so regardless of what you are using you probably won't find much success until you get a machine like the Porter Cable 7424XP. Also, remember that swirl removal doesn't come in a bottle. There are about a thousand products which have the ability to remove your swirls, but that is all dependent on your use with the machine and pads. Autogeek.net has some great suggestions for which pads do what. They carry Griot's products as well if you like those, but I like the way Autogeek writes their directions better. It makes it easy for anyone to figure out what they need to purchase in order to get the job done. It does take the right combinations of products and process, so just keep doing your research and you'll get what you need. Just as a tip... I've found the Poorboy's polishes to be very easy to work with. The SSR2 is probably one of the best products I've used for tackling general swirls. That and a blue Edge2000 pad are what I have been using on normal swirls for years. Lots of other products will get the same results, but if it ain't broke... Find what works and use it often. That's my motto. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflo Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Should I avoid using the PC with a polish on my 3M clear bra? Any what about applying sealant with the PC to the clear bra? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 You never want to touch the clear bra with anything other than a soft towel and some type of UV protection. Never ever wax or polish it. You'll haze the hell out of the material and that stuff just doesn't repair easily. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milesej05 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 You never want to touch the clear bra with anything other than a soft towel and some type of UV protection. Never ever wax or polish it. You'll haze the hell out of the material and that stuff just doesn't repair easily. So true, the wax/sealer/buffer compounds do NOT want to come off either. They are like a glue to the bra. Luckily mine didn't haze too bad and still looks fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Yep. Nothing clear about a clear bra with haze on it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v74/Jngrbrdman/clearbra.jpg _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodstock Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Can PC with proper pad be used to clear Headlight Lens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflo Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Great, thanks. I have used some Klasse AIO by hand on the clear bra without any problems but I'll keep the PC away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 AIO is safe for pretty much any exterior part. It's sealants/glazes/waxes u don't want touching that thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 I seriously wouldn't touch a clear bra with anything other than UV protectant. They haze way too easily. You can clear headlight lenses with a PC, sure... You will also need a fairly strong cutting compound depending on how bad the damage is you are fixing. You may want to wetsand them first and then use the PC to polish out the haze. Also, be aware that some of the damage may be on the inside of the lens and will never be repaired unless you take them apart. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwolson2 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 just read your other site....my brain hurts... Good info though! Also, I was at kmart(its still open...I thought they whut them down!) and the have this blue magic carpet cleaner. You spray it, let it sit, and blot it dry. by far the best stain remover I have used(and I have used the prestout stuff you recommended). Not trying to derail the forum.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 The thing I didn't like about the Blue Magic carpet cleaner is the way the brush on the cap hinges the wrong way. however, if you are using a separate brush like I do now, then it really just matters that you use what works best for you. I use Tuff Stuff now and that works great too. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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