dwolson2 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 tried the tuff stuff too. The can I got didn't have a brush... I will post a pic in a min... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwolson2 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/dwolson2/2011-05-01084732.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 I think I was thinking of Blue Coral. I haven't tried that particular one yet. I stick with Tuff Stuff because it works and it also works on other surfaces as well. I like my products to be multi purpose where practical. I may have to give this product a shot for dedicated carpet cleaning though. How much does it cost per can and how much space can it cover? _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwolson2 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 5$, I will let you know when I finish it. It seems to have a good spread, maybe 1 or 2 sq yards, about the same as tuff stuff maybe a little more, its really hard to measure. I have the tan carpet with some bad stains, I got most of them out, and the ones I let soak and soaked them "real good" seemed to come out. I have a before and after pic.... another min....lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwolson2 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 before: http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/dwolson2/2011-05-01084722.jpg after http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/dwolson2/2011-05-01123529.jpg didn't do everything, just that spot right next to the seat. I really hate the tan carpet. I have tried everything, and nothing gets it completely out, except bleach... in the washer... with my PT uniform... which resulted in blue backseat floormats....which after 5 loads...resulted in a very clean tan with slight ... very slight... blue tinted mats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwolson2 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 and I still have the blue subaru protective film on after 5 years FTW!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanGT Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 I had mistakenly applied sealant to my clear guard and now it has a haze. How do I get rid of it? . . I have enough drama for now..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 You can't. The material is very soft and getting rid of the haze is dang near impossible. There are some products out there which are supposedly good for this kind of thing, but all I've ever been able to accomplish with them is haze clear bras even more, so I don't even try anymore. This products is supposed to work on clear vinyl, but it doesn't do anything for clear bra material from what I've seen. If someone comes to me with a hazed clear bra, I just tell them it is borked and there isn't anything I can do for it. It's why I recommend against getting it on any part of the car other than the bumper. The haze isn't as notifiable down there, but on the hood it stands out like a sore thumb. Sorry i can't be much help on it. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwolson2 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 hey what about the dings that our cars are horrible for. What do you do for those... BTW thanks for all the great info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 Dents and dings are another story. You can't polish those out, obviously. In fact, polishing your car only makes them stand out even more. The sheet metal our cars are made of is ridiculously thin. I guess that is why they gave us so many air bags. You can pay a Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) guy to come and pull them out for you. if they aren't on a body line then they are pretty easy. He'll use a device identical to the Ding King you can pick up at AutoZone. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Ding-King-Dent-Repair-Kit/dp/B0007N56L8]Amazon.com: Ding King Dent Repair Kit: Automotive[/ame] They use a special kind of hot glue on a plastic tab and then put that in the middle of the dent. When that dries they put a bar over the tab with two posts on it to provide leverage and they pop the dent out. It works amazingly well. I've pulled a number of dents out of my own vehicles and others using that product. Another method which worked on my LGT was to heat the surface of the dent with a heat gun and then use a can of compressed air to cool it rapidly. Just watch that dent pop when you do that. There are lots of youtube videos on both the compressed air technique and the ding king. Don't think it is crapy just becuase it was advertised on TV. remember, our cars are advertised on TV too and they aren't crap. Not everything 'as seen on TV' is a cheap piece of garbage. the Ding King is a great tool and works well. Definitely worth the $25 bucks, or whatever they go for now. That is less than it would cost you to have a PDR come out and pull even one dent. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwolson2 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 thanks for the info, The dings on my car are driving me nuts, especially since I bought my car brand new, and I have slowly watched them all surface, but my wifes 97x has no single ding, and sheetmetal that would make a classic gear head feel safe. the doors are heavy as crap though... so my wife ends up slamming mine..arggg.. I will try the heat gun thing first, since between a hair dryer and some good lights, I think I can get it hot enough... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflo Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 One question about my PC: Is claying necessary before using the PC or can a good polish do the same job? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 Clay is an essential part of the process. Clay pulls particles out of and off of the paint which polishing cannot accomplish. Even when you are using a machine you still need to clay before polishing. Look at it this way... If you had an ingrown hair, would you just shave off the top, or get some tweezers and pull it out? That is what clay does. It is the Tweezers and polish is the razor. If you have metal fragments imbedded in your paint, then you don't just want to knock the top off and leave the particles there. Clay gets them out of and off your paint so your surface is smooth as glass. It is essential and not a step I would ever skip before polishing. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflo Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 That's what I thought. Thanks for the input. Can't wait for my machine to arrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajamils Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Planning on ordering PC but still confused about what pads to get with it. I'm thinking about going with Edge 2000 pads but not sure which color? (I have one BRAND new car and one few years old) Also, how often should this wax/polish/sealant process be repeated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 For most of what I do I use the blue one and the white one. Blue for polishing and white for waxing. That sounds like it may work for what you are needing it for. I recommend it be done at least twice a year. Once in the spring to repair the damage from winter and once in the fall to prepare for winter. Depending on your climate this may vary. Or you could just change the products and say once in the spring to prepare for summer and then once in the fall to repair from summer. It just depends on what kind of results you are going for. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajamils Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 For most of what I do I use the blue one and the white one. Blue for polishing and white for waxing. That sounds like it may work for what you are needing it for. I recommend it be done at least twice a year. Once in the spring to repair the damage from winter and once in the fall to prepare for winter. Depending on your climate this may vary. Or you could just change the products and say once in the spring to prepare for summer and then once in the fall to repair from summer. It just depends on what kind of results you are going for. Excuse my ignorance but I don't understand that we only do this waxing/polishing twice a year.... so how we keep the car looking shiny and new rest of the time? Just by washing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 That is just the bare minimum. And I'm also basing that on what I do, which would include using a sealant which lasts for 4 or 5 months. For best results I would recommend you do it once in between those times just to keep it fresh. On my own personal vehicles I do the full polishing twice a year, but I wax them every 8 weeks to keep them looking good. So it just depends on what your climate is and how you drive the car. For Houston you are in a very hot and humid climate. You need to consider using a sealant instead of a wax on your paint. A wax is going to vaporize in that climate VERY quickly. Maybe 4 weeks at best. A sealant will last you at least a good 3 or 4 months in that climate. Klasse is a great choice for that. The Sealant Glaze is one of the more durable sealants on the market. It is an acrylic sealant compared to the more common polymer sealants and it is what I use to protect vehicles through harsh Utah winters. I haven't tested the durability of the new Meguiar's Ultimate sealant/wax, but I have heard from those in the know that it is a very good product. The last couple sealants I've used from Meguiar's have been very good products. I will be getting a bottle of that this weekend to try out and see what I think. If you reapply it every 8 to 12 weeks then you can be assured you are keeping the paint protected and looking good. In between that you can get away with easy washes and maybe the occasional Quick Detailer to just get the dust off. Make sense? It was a fair question, so I apologize for not clarifying it better. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflo Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hey OCD - how difficult is Klasse sealant glaze to apply with the PC? Any tips? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 I wouldn't recommend applying it with the PC for a couple reasons. The biggest is that it is so thin that it just soaks into the pad and you waste a ton of product. The best and only way I would ever apply SG is to use a damp microfiber applicator and then wipe the product on in straight lines from front to back until the car is covered. Thin thin thin thin thin thin coat. If you can see it then it is too much. If you use too much product then it is a beast and a half to get off again. The best and easiest way I've found to buff the product off after it has cured for about 45 minutes, is to use a damp microfiber towel in one hand and a dry one in the other. You use the damp one to get the bite you need to buff most of it off and then follow up with the dry one to get any streaks out. Following that process is the easiest way to do it and you will get the results you want. I've tried variations of this method and it always gives me problems. SG isn't like any other product you'll use on your paint. It isn't like a wax or a polymer sealant where it comes out of the bottle like a cream or lotion. This stuff is akin to watered down milk. It is very thin and doesn't spread well. Applying it by hand is really the only way to go. The results are worth it though. The shine is absolutely insane after three or four coats. Just remember that it needs about a day between coats to cure. (man, this is a complicated product. lol) _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 What's the shelf life of the Klasse SG? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Just shy of a zillion years. The stuff lasts for freakin ever even if you are using it on a regular basis, so it has to last awhile. I used the same bottle for 5 years once and it was fine. Just shake it up or let it sit on its head for a few days and then shake it up. I haven't ever noticed the difference in appearance or performance between an old bottle and a new bottle. The stuff is pretty bulletproof. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajamils Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Hey OC, What speeds do you recommend on PC for polishing and waxing ? (with Edge 2000 foam) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Just shy of a zillion years. The stuff lasts for freakin ever even if you are using it on a regular basis, so it has to last awhile. I used the same bottle for 5 years once and it was fine. Just shake it up or let it sit on its head for a few days and then shake it up. I haven't ever noticed the difference in appearance or performance between an old bottle and a new bottle. The stuff is pretty bulletproof. Thanks. I've had some sitting around for a few years that I haven't been using and I'd like to give it another try this year. When you say "damp" applicator to apply and a damp cloth to remove, you mean water, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Water works. I know some guys who just spray QD on the paint and then use a dry towel. I've found it is easier to get it all off with a damp towel (water) and then a dry one in the other hand. This stuff dries incredibly clear, so it is hard to see if you got it all off. ESPECIALLY if you have a silver or white car. That stuff is nearly impossible to see, so the damp towel trick is really important there. You'll see it better on dark colors. I wax on 3 and polish usually on 5. I start it on 3 and spread it around and then kick it up to 5. 6 is pretty much reserved for headlight polishing or serious damage spots. 5 does the trick most of the time for me. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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