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Hey guys,

pretty new to the Subaru world. I've had my outback for about 6 months now. 2005 XT. My turbo is shot. Leaking oil like crazy and pretty noisy. It happened all of a sudden, and when my wife was driving, so failure is catastrophic. I need a new turbo. But I cant afford $1200-1500, so I was wondering if anyone had any success with an aftermarket turbo. I know it's not ideal, but I'm kind of desperate. only 130k on the motor, and it was well taken care of prior to (and including) my ownership. any recommendations? TIA.

 

Justin

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Sounds like you want to keep the costs down and keep things similar to what you have. If you change the turbo model you are running, you would also need to get the engine retuned, which is additional expense. You might need other supporting mods.

 

Think about a rebuilt turbo. This would probably be the most economical way to go. You send your old turbo to the rebuilder as a core exchange, he sends you a rebuilt turbo which is an exact replacement for the turbo you have now.

 

One of the vendors on the forum, JmP6889928, provides this service. You can send him a PM. Other vendors may offer this service, too.

 

Read the turbo failure FAQ, don't let this happen to you! $$$

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

 

Make sure you address the issues covered in the FAQ before you put another turbo on.

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"so failure is catastrophic"

 

If that's true, you have put metal into the oil system. If you did, your looking at $6000 or more it fix this.

 

Do not start the engine again until you know there is no metal in the oil system.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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+1 on all the above. YOU MUST verify that the turbo didn't dump its guts into your engine.

 

Be aware that the VF40 (?) is not known for its longevity. I'd be hesitant to put in another used one w/any miles on it - if you're thinking that way.

Ideally, you could find a low-mileage used that someone pulled off to upgrade @ <50K miles and it's been sitting on a shelf. A VF52 from a WRX will fit, too. But will require a tune for your engine.

 

 

Read this too: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/38141-outback-xt-stock-turbo-reliability.html

 

GL,

Td

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Hey guys,

pretty new to the Subaru world. I've had my outback for about 6 months now. 2005 XT. My turbo is shot. Leaking oil like crazy and pretty noisy. It happened all of a sudden, and when my wife was driving, so failure is catastrophic. I need a new turbo. But I cant afford $1200-1500, so I was wondering if anyone had any success with an aftermarket turbo. I know it's not ideal, but I'm kind of desperate. only 130k on the motor, and it was well taken care of prior to (and including) my ownership. any recommendations? TIA.

 

Justin

 

You've had it for six months and now the turbo is blown? The banjos filters in the oil feed line are clogged, and were clogged before you bought it. The previous owner borked the turbo, put another in, and got rid of it onto you. You are in for far more then 1500. You 90% will need a new engine either fairly soon or in the next 20k miles. . I am really sorry. I really am. Dropping a used engine in is a bad idea rarely goes well. People don't just sell used engines that are running great. And if its a motor from wrecked car, imagine what damage the impact probably did to the internals.

 

We are not here to sell you anything and have no interest in not telling it to you straight.

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You've had it for six months and now the turbo is blown? The banjos filters in the oil feed line are clogged, and were clogged before you bought it. The previous owner borked the turbo, put another in, and got rid of it onto you. You are in for far more then 1500. You 90% will need a new engine either fairly soon or in the next 20k miles. . I am really sorry. I really am. Dropping a used engine in is a bad idea rarely goes well. People don't just sell used engines that are running great. And if its a motor from wrecked car, imagine what damage the impact probably did to the internals.

 

We are not here to sell you anything and have no interest in not telling it to you straight.

 

That might be the case, but it's an assumption. It's possible this could be the first turbo failure. He won't know until the engine is checked out. That's why I pointed him to the turbo failure FAQ earlier. The FAQ summarizes the causes and solutions pretty well.

 

Not sure where the used engine thing came in...I didn't see anyone suggest that.

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That might be the case, but it's an assumption. It's possible this could be the first turbo failure. He won't know until the engine is checked out. That's why I pointed him to the turbo failure FAQ earlier. The FAQ summarizes the causes and solutions pretty well.

 

Not sure where the used engine thing came in...I didn't see anyone suggest that.

 

Everyone who asks this question who dont want to spend oem money on a new turbo always ask about used engines after they find metal in the oil pan. Im just saving a step.

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Everyone who asks this question who dont want to spend oem money on a new turbo always ask about used engines after they find metal in the oil pan. Im just saving a step.
Good point, I guess the OP should be prepared for the worst, maybe he will get lucky this time. Here's hoping, anyway.
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thanks for all the feedback everyone. I'll look at those other threads that were linked asap. Sorry for not checking back in earlier. super busy week at work so far.

 

the previous owner took meticulous care of the car, with records to prove it, but the banjo bolt below the turbo was a bit gunked up when I removed it a couple months ago. damage may have already been done at that point.

 

I have not had a chance to take a close look at the turbo yet. I'll try to get to it this weekend. I'll drain the oil and look for any particles. once I replace the turbo (assuming I can get away with just that, and no other issues), would it be helpful to fill it with fresh oil, run it for a minute and flush the oil once or twice (including a new filter)? is there anything else you would do to help prevent further damage?

 

I don't run this car hard at all. I'm not looking for high performance, I just want it to work as originally intended. I'm middle aged, and it's my daily driver, so not looking to upgrade my turbo or other systems if I can help it.

 

I'll look into rebuilds like was recommended. I know aftermarket can be a crap shoot, but any of those that seem to be better than others (or any in particular to stay away from)?

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I bought an 05 wagon with 97k in December. I had an issue with the dp so I replaced it a month into owning it. It currently has a perrin filter, catless up pipe, cobb dp, cobb ap. My father in law took my car to the airport (70 miles) and about 45 miles along the way, he said he started sounding funny. He had no CEL, wasn't overheating and never has. I told him to turn the ap off and back on, and it showed that it wasn't boosting and wastegate duty was empty. He parked it within about 10 miles or so, and avoided boost at my discretion.

 

I went and got my truck and trailer to pick the car up. Unfortunately I did need to crank the car to get it on the trailer (but not off of it). It sounded like someone had taken a few pennies and put them in a glass jar and started shaking it.

 

I knew the car was burning oil but made sure to keep it full but I am assuming that the vf40 has died on me. Since it has most likely failed based on the sound, I am looking to upgrade it in the process. I have read a lot of the stickies but it seems some of the links are no longer valid due to the time it has been since they were posted.

 

I paid just under 7k for the car as I was in college at the time. I just graduated (and have a job) so I am not as concerned about the money it will costs to guarantee a fix.

 

I'm looking for help in what I should do. I will be pulling the dp down and taking the turbo off this weekend. What else should I remove and check while Im there.

 

Tell me if I am approaching this correctly?

 

Remove all oil lines, and replace. Pull oil pan off and check. Replace turbo (VF52 or BNR 16g). Replace IC (Staying tmic, suggestions?) I love this car and it I want to increase power and longevity at the same time which is why I won't be returning a vf40 to the car. Is a cobb ap good enough to use for a tune without an e tune until I can find a reputable local shop?

 

 

Location: Columbia, SC

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Ah thank you for this good info! Oil analysis definitely should have been a priority when I got the car! Will follow up and let everyone know what happens. Hopefully I won't have to pry out too much to get it back and better before!

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With Cobb AP you can get a e-tune from one of the best, www.tuningalliance.com tell him I sent you.

 

The vf52 is a great turbo, you will need a tune for it.

 

You need to make sure your engine has not metal in the oil system.

 

Read the sticky's and ask questions. We're here to help.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So I contacted IP&T and then saw the forum posting that they are no longer in production as of a year ago. I read up on some of the alternatives but it didn't seem to be to definitive on the next best thing compared to how EVERYONE supported IP&T for the oil supply lines.

 

Besides the oil analysis, and dropping the oil pan, is there any guaranteed way to say that there is or is not metal in the system without rebuilding the entire engine?

 

Thank you for the help, it is making this feel a little more familiar knowing that a lot of us LGT people have gone through this (or know someone who has).

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So I contacted IP&T and then saw the forum posting that they are no longer in production as of a year ago. I read up on some of the alternatives but it didn't seem to be to definitive on the next best thing compared to how EVERYONE supported IP&T for the oil supply lines.

 

Besides the oil analysis, and dropping the oil pan, is there any guaranteed way to say that there is or is not metal in the system without rebuilding the entire engine?

 

Thank you for the help, it is making this feel a little more familiar knowing that a lot of us LGT people have gone through this (or know someone who has).

 

 

You can make up your own oil feed line with a in-line filter if you like. Earls High Performance plumbing will have all you need. Places like Summit Racing and Jegs will also have fittings, even the local hardware store will have some. Lot's of local places if you know what your looking for.

 

If you have any doubts about any metal, rebuild the engine now before something bad happens and takes out the new turbo.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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