2009 Outback XT EJ20X Swap

[Element-X]

Hmm, definitely an interesting route to take, I bet as a previous user noted, the Canbus on the JDM ECU is not cooperating with the rest of your systems. I'd like to keep traction control and ABS in tact as I live in the North East.

 

The WGDC is static at 0% and I just cut out the atmospheric sensor from the old air pump that I didn't realize I was missing. Was wondering why there was such a difference in Corrected and Sea Level boost numbers. Hooked up the atmospheric sensor and all is well there now. Still only hitting 9psi tops though.

 

I'm using a high flow HKS JDM downpipe that I purchased off a member on this forum "valleylegacy." Great guy, he bought a whole front clip from Japan and was parting out things he didn't need off it, this was one of the pieces along with the JDM TMIC. Once I get a cat-back this thing should sound pretty nice. It already has a little growl to it with just the DP.

[mtnbikeman123]

FYI, I did the same thing cutting the pressure sensor from the pump but I saw no difference in performance. When I was running the US ecu with no fault codes, I did hit target boost (13.5?, I don't remember) with and without this sensor attached.

 

I believe your wgdc should be 70-90%(I don't remember what the stock values are in the tables) when you are trying to make boost and 0%(open) when you are not. This seems like the reason you are not hitting target boost.

Edited July 22, 2017 by mtnbikeman123

[Element-X]

Ya, just reset the ECU and went for a drive. Saw the WGDC operating normally like you suggested, about halfway through a 3rd gear pull (at 13-14psi!) it fell on it's face, knock was climbing and WGDC went to 0. Must be the ECU trying to save the motor? I just downloaded a stock map from an aussie 2008 liberty GT which I think has the VF38 stock? Digging around now to try and find the best match for this setup so I can copy the tables to my map.

[05Jdm2.0gt]

Did this swap in march. Using usdm intake manifold, engine harness and ecu. I opted to run without the exhaust avcs. To make sure i wasnt full retard on the exhaust cam, i used usdm non avcs cam gears on the exhaust cams and plugged the hole. Car runs great. Dyno tuned on a v3 cobb ap.

 

Not sure if this is what you wanna do but it worked for me.

 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

[texy32]

If you would of bought a later year model with the U20 heads and not the Z20 heads you would of had air pumps as well. FYI The z20 head uses the same head gasket as usdm 2.0 wrx. I ordered new head gaskets for the U20/D20 heads from Saudi Emirates. 65 bucks with DHL.

 

I got one for my wife's 2008 OBXT AUTO. It came with the full dash loom and ECU etc.. Did not want to have problems with the Immobilizer.

 

Very nicely done.

I took my wife out of a gas guzzling Tribeca and put her into a 2008 OBXT. Fully loaded black on black with a bad bearing for 4k. Got the newer style engine for 1200.

 

I put a STI uppipe on it with a resistor for EGT code with a nice CovertRusian lean cruise map. She gets well over 30mpg on the highway with a VF52. High 20ies in the city.

 

With higher compression it still has nice power. I have heard and seen lots of bad stuff about the F20 engine. So I am glad to find a 30+ MPG option for a Subaru. That I can still work on. F20 sucks to work on.

[BP5TBSTI]

I'd love to get a copy of that JDM CD-ROM. I can throw some money for a copy. Please let me know.

[mtnbikeman123]

Diagrams shared. I don't want to post them, I'm not sure if that is against the rules here.

 

Quick update, I found that I needed a different sensor part number on my RHS bank as indicated on the JDM parts diagrams. I was using 22056AA210 for both LH and RH exhaust cams but I actually needed 22056AA200 on the RHS. I had to modify the bolt hole location on the sensor but now I get cam position signals for both exhaust cams!! These are the 3 wire plastic case sensors whereas the sensors I removed are the metal case 2 wire as used by the older gen metal case ECU up to mid-2006

 

The AVCS does function but I'm still having a lingering issue now with the LHS. The cam seems to move at startup but as I run the engine for a few minutes sitting in park, the cam stops moving, all while the RHS cam functions as expected. Swapped OCVs without any luck. Haven't been able to do any more diagnosing but it seems like THIS might be my issue. Oil pressure should drop at startup as the oil warms, right? If the filter is semi-clogged, that seems like a reasonable guess. Will report back when I have fully functioning exhaust AVCS.

 

To clarify for some other comments, this is my daily driver and I couldn't afford the time to source a later gen engine with the proper sensors and smog pumps, though I do wish I had done this now. I did not and still do not see these being offered by my local importers yet, but its possible if I had called around I would be able to find one, or at least an importer willing to source one for me.

 

EDIT 1/8/2018

Replacing the entire LHS exhaust oil control valve assembly did not fix the problem (Overnight parts from Japan, if we have to...). Problem seems electronic rather than mechanical. From a cold start with no throttle input, the LHS solenoid will function and the LHS exhaust cam will activate okay from 7deg to 0 deg as the engine warms up. If I barely blip the throttle, the two LH and RH advance angles will match pretty well. But if I blip hard or let the revs slowly climb anywhere in the coldstart cycle while sitting the garage, the LHS AVCS will stop functioning and the engine will stumble(observed looking at data as reported in romraider logger). Pretty frustrated, I thought I was close to solving this...

 

EDIT 1/23/2018

I found that I had mixed up the LH and RH oil control solenoids while wiring the cam angle sensors. I swapped the wires to the correct positions at the deutsch plug I added and the exhaust AVCS does work! I am still having an issue with the IAM not advancing past 0.5, working to get this sorted out...

Edited April 23, 2018 by mtnbikeman123

[mtnbikeman123]

Im going to bump this...

I am having issues with my IAM not increasing from 0.5. Not really sure where to look for issues now, AVCS is working and I have no other diagnostic codes aside from the P0600 that I disabled earlier in this process. Im thinking the IAM issue might be related to this but I am not sure. I did not have this code with the my US ecu.

 

Anyone have any thoughts?

[l88m22vette]

Here's my Outback swap (2008 JDM Spec-B EJ20Y) you will start to see me dealing with wiring and sensor issues around pg 8: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/416186-2005-xt-jdm-spec-b-swap-imported-front-clip-auto-manual-conversion-bolt-ons.html

 

I have a 2005 OBXT but bought a 2008 front clip, the problem is only Japan got an updated EJ20X/Y, both had the VF45 for the Japanese facelift instead of the VF38 or TD04HLA for the early EDM/JDM X and Y. The wiring changed quite a bit, I was stuck on the later 3-wire exhaust cam sensors since its not compatible with my 2005 EJ20X ECU, the pickups changed along with the sensors (3-point pickup to Hall sensor). Its weird swapping from 2 to 3-wire sensors worked for you, I tried to use early 2-wire sensors in my 2008 EJ20Y and the car won't start even though it did w/o the exhaust sensors plugged in. If I had gotten an early EJ20X/Y I would have been fine since its otherwise a pretty straight swap, you just need the JDM ECU, exhaust AVCS OCV and sensor wiring, a Legacy TS downpipe, and an IMMO reprogramming to get it running. It took weeks for me to find a proper post-facelift JDM factory wiring diagram but I did, I've attached them to this reply. To get things running properly I have to:

 

1) Get early EJ20XY or EJ205 cams (205 is an early quad-AVCS engine, basically my Y is a twin-scroll version) - most straightforward, should make everything work as intended

2) Swap my EJ255 exhaust cams in and use my single-AVCS OEM ECU

3) "Delete" AVCS with static exhaust cam gears and degree Exhaust AVCS Delete & Re-timing - Subaru Forester Owners Forum

...

4) Wire in my newer EJ20Y ECU, wiring would suck and I'd only know if it works after getting an engine harness wired for 3-wires sensors and installing it all, what a nightmare if that doesn't work

2007-9 JDM BP5D5CH EJ20X-Y factory service manual wiring (Japan facelift).pdf

2004-6 JDM BL5 BP5 EJ20X-Y factory service manual wiring.pdf

Edited January 24, 2018 by l88m22vette

[Skeen]

Interesting! You made fantastic progress with your swap. I can't wait to see more.

 

I've been slowly working on this for months. I acquired a JDM 2004 LGT Spec.B EJ20Y with 4.44 trans a while back. I've done a tear down of the engine to make sure everything was well before it was swapped in.

 

I've have the JDM ECU from the donor car that this engine came out of. (22611AK221) I've got a good chunk of the wiring diagrams from the Factory Service Manual Printed out (see below) from both the '04 RHD Turbo Legacy, and the '05 LHD Turbo Legacy. I've been comparing them with scrutiny to make sure I don't screw up the brand new LGT bulkhead I bought from Subaru. I found that a set of unused pins on the USDM ECU are used by the JDM ECU for exhaust AVCS. Interestingly enough, the Pins mapped to the TGVs on the USDM are unused on the JDM ECU.

 

I will be making a piggy back harness for both the sensors and the solenoids. I am using two different sets of Four Pin Subaru connectors so that the wiring looks pretty much factory. I also was curious about how you did your ECU pins. After an evening of searching, I was unable to find anyone that carried the female pins for the LGT ECU. The solution I found: Find the manufacturer of the ECU connector itself. Additionally, I bought a complete immobilizer system (including a 22611AJ17B ECU) from a USDM car, and swapped over the immobilizer chip itself. (It has been confirmed somewhere on this forum that the JDM immobilizer can be reprogrammed by a US dealer, but I want to be able to start the car when it's done.)

 

Connector:

http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1376430-8.html#pdp-docs-features

 

Female Pins:

http://www.te.com/usa-en/compatible-1674919-1.html?c=538089

 

Here are some pictures of the [dirty] internals. (Some of them may be upside down, sorry in advance.)

 

Edited January 24, 2018 by Skeen
Edited for clarity.

[mtnbikeman123]

FYI never detailed here how I wired the exhaust cam sensors but the sensors need power and ground, which I picked up right after the main engine harness connector and teed off the intake cam sensor power and ground wires (using wiring diagrams as reference). Then I ran the third signal wire along with the solenoid two wires into a 8 pin deutsch connector which I zip tied next to the main harness connector. At least in my car, there were no empty pins in the main engine harness connector so I had to add a secondary connector.

 

L88M22VETTE, bummer, I have had these diagrams for a long time and I would have shared them. It seems we are in opposite positions, I really should have purchased a later engine that would have come with everything I needed. Though this was the purpose of starting this thread, so I could help other people with the things I learned and mistakes I made so they don't have to repeat this process.

 

I'm not sure what to tell you regarding the sensors. I think I read that if there is an issue with the intake cam sensors, the motor might not start but it will start if the issue is only with the exhaust sensors...

 

While in this process, I looked at photos and at my own motor and the tone ring on the exhaust camshaft at least looked very similar between the old and new generation motors, the only features are two notches located 180deg from each other. I figured since the only difference in the exhaust AVCS between the old and new motors appeared to be the type of sensor (2 vs 3 wire), the 3 wire sensors would work in place of the 2 wire and they do(with some modification to the mounting tab on the RH bank).

 

It seems like your older car should work with a metal case JDM ecu and retrofitting the 2 wire exhaust cam sensors. I did not change the exhaust solenoids or cam gears since many of the part numbers cross reference for all model years, so I don't see a reason this wouldn't work for you backwards as it did for me forwards. Were you using the 2 wire sensors with a metal case JDM ecu? Based on my research, the metal case JDM ECUs use the 2 wire sensors and the plastic case JDM ECUs use the 3 wire sensors. And the two types are not really interchangeable, the pinouts for the two types of ECUs are very different, I'm sure you know all of this now though, sorry for repeating anything.

 

I hated the thought of giving up on getting the exhaust AVCS to work just for the challenge which is why I am continuing to detail all of this work. Whether or not it is worth the effort is still TBD.

 

 

Skeen, I bought the ECU pins from Digikey P/N A107011CT-ND LINK. Make sure you use small gauge wire, I used 20 awg TXL and the insulation was still a tiny bit too thick and I really had to jam the pins into the socket.

Edited January 24, 2018 by mtnbikeman123

[SubOperator]

You guys are my heroes. Good luck with your projects and thank you for sharing the details.

[l88m22vette]

Skeen, thanks, its been a weird combo of fun and head-bashing frustration! Swapping to a JDM ECU is as simple as getting the keys/immobilizer reprogrammed after its all plugged in. Tip: don't tell the locksmith its a foreign ECU, several places got scared and didn't want to try it unless I bought a new ECU at the dealer, good luck with that. I almost swapped IMMO chips but didn't want to ruin anything with soldering surgery, paying a guy $150 for the programming was definitely worth it. I also almost bought a Subaru SSM with the correct cartridge off eBay but dropping $600 didn't make sense. My harnesses came from iWire, Brain added the exhaust AVCS wiring to the main engine harness and also provided a jumper harness to go from the large engine bay plug to the ECU, I just needed to trace wires and insert the pins into the correct locations on the 134 and 135 ECU plugs.

 

mtnbikeman, I plan to go through the wiring before any major surgery, since I'm using the metal case ECU, have all the AVCS wiring added, and installed the 2-wire sensors (I needed to enlarge the bolt holes) it "should" work. I'll try to start it without the exhaust cam sensors since that worked before, and otherwise try to troubleshoot without undoing a lot of what's been done. Basically, I thought I could just swap some ECU maps to account for the hardware differences, but was told by Ed at XRT that its not that simple because of the ECU's logic. I don't doubt that, I'm just being stubborn to try to make this stuff work (like you mentioned) before I spend more money or do a bunch of wrenching.

Edited January 26, 2018 by l88m22vette

[mtnbikeman123]

Well I have some good news for my car. Mondtster has been helping me and he mentioned that I should try using the manual transmission calibration/program in my ECU. My ECU is from a 2006 automatic car, using calibration ID A2UH000A. I downloaded the M/T calibration A2UG000B from Romraider forums LINK and flashed it to my car and it worked!!!! My P0600 is gone and now the car behaves much differently. I think the ECU was limiting throttle opening to 50% or less with the P0600 code present. Now I can build boost and the IAM actually changes and the FLKC tables populate in romraider learning view. Best guess is the A/T program was looking for the A/T controller and throwing the code and putting the car in a limp mode.

 

The motor isn't very happy and is giving me quite a bit of knock, but I have put a little time into logging and modifying fueling and timing tables with some significant improvement. It seems like I will be able to get it into a good state if I can commit a few hours to logging and tuning. California gas

 

Since I am using US injectors, I did correct the scaling and latency in the JDM M/T calibration. I will also need to change wastegate tables since I am using the VF48 and not the JDM VF38.

 

Feels great to have gotten this far. The car finally makes more than 100hp! Thanks to everyone that helped!

[l88m22vette]

Nice work, glad to hear!

 

One thing that I'm thinking of is the engine harness ground, can someone tell/show me where that should go? I know it is supposed to be hooked to a direct battery ground but it wouldn't reach, so instead I grounded it on the TMIC bracket, could that ruin my party?

[Crankwalk]

Just to clarify a few things, you didn't need to use the AEM patch harness to do any repinning at the ECU? Just add the wires for the cam position sensors and AVCS actuators?

 

So you are 100% CEL free and fully functional? ABS, traction, SI Drive?

[mtnbikeman123]

L88, do you have a picture of this question? I can try to look at my harness to compare.

 

Crankwalk, correct, I did not repin the ecu connector or use any type of adapter. The plastic case legacy JDM ecus have the same pinout as the plastic case legacy US ecus, at least for BP/BL applications. The JDM ecu uses some of the empty US pins for the extra functions.

 

I am 100% CEL free with the one caveat, I disabled some secondary air codes since I do not have the pumps and valves on my early-gen motor. The later gen motors probably should function without disabling these codes since the hardware is installed on these later motors. SI Drive works as well.

 

My ABS and Traction lights are still on and ABS is non-functional. I will look into this when I have finished tuning the car. In California where it doesn't rain, this is not an issue and I used to enjoy sliding around in the snow when I lived in the snow belt, but I can see that this might be an issue for other folks.

[Crankwalk]

L88, do you have a picture of this question? I can try to look at my harness to compare.

 

Crankwalk, correct, I did not repin the ecu connector or use any type of adapter. The plastic case legacy JDM ecus have the same pinout as the plastic case legacy US ecus, at least for BP/BL applications. The JDM ecu uses some of the empty US pins for the extra functions.

 

I am 100% CEL free with the one caveat, I disabled some secondary air codes since I do not have the pumps and valves on my early-gen motor. The later gen motors probably should function without disabling these codes since the hardware is installed on these later motors. SI Drive works as well.

 

My ABS and Traction lights are still on and ABS is non-functional. I will look into this when I have finished tuning the car. In California where it doesn't rain, this is not an issue and I used to enjoy sliding around in the snow when I lived in the snow belt, but I can see that this might be an issue for other folks.

 

Beautiful man! I was intimidated by this route, but I think you have done enough trail blazing I can follow in your footsteps. I'd like to have traction control, but if it comes down to quad AVCS or traction control, I will take the AVCS. Hopefully I can find someone who can program the immobilizer, I am in a smallish town, so locksmith selection is minimal.

 

Any chance you have a diagram of where the exhaust AVCS wires and cam positioning sensors get pinned into the harness at the ECU?

[Crankwalk]

Oh, and what are you doing about TGVs? I thought I could use the JDM lower intake, but it doesn't work with the US injectors, so I had to swap over the US lower intake/TGVs. Did you Dremel out the TGV stuff? Or did you find a way to control the TGVs with the JDM ECU?

[mtnbikeman123]

Im not sure about the earlier gen JDM motor but the later gen JDM have TGVs so the later gen plastic case ECU will control the TGVs. I have confirmed that my TGVs do function while looking at data logs.

 

This is straight from the wiring diagrams and pinout:

LH Exhaust Cam Position: B134-31

RH Exhaust Cam Position: B134-12

 

LH Exhaust Solenoid +: B137-31

LH Exhaust Solenoid -: B137-30

 

RH Exhaust Solenoid +: B137-25

RH Exhaust Solenoid -: B137-24

[Skeen]

Im not sure about the earlier gen JDM motor...

 

The picture will be upside down, sorry.

 

The pre face lift JDM legacy did not have TGV's.

[Kruso]

Edit, the three wire intake cam position sensors on either side are identical on the early EJ20x, I was trying to figure out why one of the inputs from the cam position sensors appears to be inverted, even when I swap the sensor to the opposite side.

 

Kruso

Edited March 8, 2018 by Kruso

[mtnbikeman123]

At least the sensors I was using, the 3 wire exhaust cam sensors are not the same left and right. The mounting tab is offset by 90deg rotation so I had to use the correct sensor for the correct location.

[Kruso]

I've done a EJ20x swap into an 07 Impreza but can't get injectors 3 and 4 to pulse, everything else seems to be there. Wondering if there's some input which would cause the ECU to not enable these two injectors....

[mtnbikeman123]

I haven't run into this issue. Are you using the JDM engine harness or did you swap components and use the USDM harness?

 

Did you do anything with the intake cam position sensors? I have heard that you can get a no-start condition if there is a fault in the intake cam sensors.

 

I would probably trace the injector wires back to the ECU to ensure connectivity to the correct pins, check power and ground where appropriate.

 

Not sure what else to suggest, sorry. You could try PMing Mondtster, he was helpful when I had questions.