texy32

I can do all my own work so I forget the cost of a shop ouch! So here is the 350hp EJ20 solution. Way better gas mileage! You can now get a EJ20 SAVCS drop in ready motor. Im getting out of the game so here is one of my little secret! The new SAVCS JDM motors yes Single and not Dual AVCS out of the 08 and newer SGT WRX, Forester XT & Exiga Turbo. These motors have Subaru's harder upgraded bearings and the newer style heads with Air Pumps and better CC chamber design. They are on Ebay for around $2000! Less if you shop around. Beware they have alot of non turbo engines listed as turbo. You just need to use your manifold wiring. It is a direct swap 2.5L to 2.0l. The one thing that could be better is the rods. But for a no hassle replacement to get your car back on the road this is it. Good for the same as a USDM EJ205. But is is not prone to bearing failure any more. Plus SAVCS and the newer designed heads. Look at this on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312416201573 ENJOY!

I Have at least 2 of the JDM RHD oil cooler that go behind the left head.

Dude I have several engines I've built at 400hp! They all have 30-40k miles by now. Not one burns burn a drop of oil! So far! Cross my fingers! If you just drop a used jdm ej205 into your car you will have the same problem as a wrx ej205. When you up the boost the rods are junk!! I put sti rods minimum into any 2.0l i build. Then i use d20 or u20 savcs heads not davcs for any model that has air pumps. I use v10 jdm savcs big ports for any year without air pumps. Alot of newer model usdm turbos don't come with the heat exchanger any more.

You can also take the stuff off your usdm engine and swap it over if you get a JDM engine without oil cooler. Side not. You can use the water nipple coming out of the left head on the Auto Version. I can be used as the outlet for the 4 cylinder cooling mode. Then you just need some house and a PVC or brass fitting and you save at least 50 bucks. And you used a factory water nipple on your head.

No legacy GT uses a 4.11 final drive The Outback XT uses a 4.44 final drive. The 2008 up WRX uses the 3.9 final drive They all have the same gear sets in them. The pinion and transfer gears are what differs So if you have a LGT 5spd you need 4.11

I thought that after I typed it. Thanks for catching that I will edit it.

EJ20Y comes with either a 5spd or 6spd transmission. It has the stock heat exchanger and regular style water pump. EJ20X comes with a auto transmission. It has the heat exchanger/ oil cooler on the rear driver side of engine. It is where the steering linkages goes in a USDM model. So if your engine has a water jacket nipple on the rear driver left head then you have a EJ20y. You will need the water pump with no front oil cooler nipple on the left side of waterpump. Newer ej255 usdm engine like 2012 ish have the same water pump. I will look up the years and parts numbers and list them to help people out. You can always swap over your usdm oil cooler if your motor failed from a Ringland and not from a spun bearing. Subarus are like Legos! Ok they are in the right order now. Good looking out.

EJ255 and EJ257 timing kits are the same.

My source. I got my first set of SAVCS U20 heads from Outfront motorsports. The best head with SAVCS and no Air pump is a T20N head. It is a copy of a W20 head even uses same head gasket. But no Air pumps, D20 heads are a 2.0l clone of a D25 head off of a EJ255. If you use it the Combustion chamber need to be opened up same with older Spec B Z20 heads. But right out of the box with aur pumps is U2O heads.

It is a EJ205 but with AVCS. So not much more than a USDM WRX. The rods being the week link. I think your swap is cooler because you have working DAVCS!

I'm the one that mentioned that the U20 heads are much better. So we know that you can buy a ej20x or ej20y. Which is DAVCS. Well the newer S-GT and Exiga turbo model engines are finally starting to show up! They have U20 heads with SAVCS. YES INTAKE ONLY. and are Single scroll Same as USDM Headers etc.. Manifold is same as LGT and 08 up WRX. You literally swap manifolds with the wiring harness off USDM model and it is plug and play no re pinning, changing ECU ETC. It is the easiest conversion I have done to date. If you use the yellow 565cc you don't even have to change any values in the ECU. Here is one for reference. I paid $1600 for mine. Well worth the ease and hassle free install! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312344486512 Trying to share my useless Subaru knowledge with the community! Hope it help someone out!

around 06 in Japan they started using the same TGV's as 07 STI in USDM market. the ones with a plug on only on side.

I have a few of these direct swap D20/EJ207 & D20/EJ20X/Y for sale on Nasioc. I even have the Bad arss JDM/EDM V10 JDM Bigports SAVCS No Air pump. But just intake AVCS 2.0L. Same Casting as W20 V10 08 up JDM STI 2.0L It was hard to source these! Alot harder then the D20 heads These work perfectly in 05 06 07 LGT and OBXT. And for 400 can have CC chamber to 2,5L then use can have a V10 Big port 2.5L!!! It uses the same camshafts. sensors, etc... that USDM does. But you dont have to mess with Exhaust AVCS because it is not machined out for that. Once the cc is cut the heads use the same head gaskets a w25 heads do. easy to get unlike the W20 Head Gaskets/ FYI A screaming bigport in your LGT or OBXT. I am never on here much

Well I sourced so D20 Single AVCS Heads with Air pumps. 08 OBXT Decided not to swap the whole dash loom etc.. I swapped these heads on and it is a direct plug and play now. I know most of you don't build engines etc.. so it is a lot harder for you to do what I did.

If you would of bought a later year model with the U20 heads and not the Z20 heads you would of had air pumps as well. FYI The z20 head uses the same head gasket as usdm 2.0 wrx. I ordered new head gaskets for the U20/D20 heads from Saudi Emirates. 65 bucks with DHL. I got one for my wife's 2008 OBXT AUTO. It came with the full dash loom and ECU etc.. Did not want to have problems with the Immobilizer. Very nicely done. I took my wife out of a gas guzzling Tribeca and put her into a 2008 OBXT. Fully loaded black on black with a bad bearing for 4k. Got the newer style engine for 1200. I put a STI uppipe on it with a resistor for EGT code with a nice CovertRusian lean cruise map. She gets well over 30mpg on the highway with a VF52. High 20ies in the city. With higher compression it still has nice power. I have heard and seen lots of bad stuff about the F20 engine. So I am glad to find a 30+ MPG option for a Subaru. That I can still work on. F20 sucks to work on.

I have had one of these swaps running in my 05 lgt for over 2 years. About 6 months ago I converted to a STI intake manifold , TGV's, Turbo, turbo inlet, STI TMIC, Used the TD06 TS housing on my 20g XT. and put a STI style compressor cover on it. I used the plugs and wiring off the JDM harnesscut them right before the plug then pin the end that I cut into the connector. I used a 2008 up sti manifold because the JDM TGV deletes line right UP. The USDM tgvs lineup all but the top two holes but they can be drilled out to line up. The 2007 to 2012 manifolds are ideal if you are going to run stock top feed fuel rails instead. 2013/14 STI manifold is great for after market fuel rails because the FPR nipple is in the same spot as the brake booster Driver side like the legacy manifold. The emissions stuff was easy. I used stuff off 07 STI. If you use 07 up then you do not need to drill and tap the the front nipple hole that is required on 06 below WRX and STI. I used the 08 up OEM factory metal shielding piece that hold the OEM boost controller on top of the manifold. You can either drill a spot in that metal piece to mount the MAP sensor and run a line to one of the nipple for boost reference when using the Legacy GT Throttle body. Or you can use a STI TB and lengthen the Map sensor wiring. I don't recall if I had to change the connector but then it pulls right into the Map sensor located on the TB. Then you can use a Omni boost sensor or some other readily available after market one. If you get the non bellmouth down pipe that comes with the ej20x/y you can just un bolt the first part of the usdm downpipe and it will bolt right on. If you use a v8/v9 downpipe it will need to be cut and welded to a usdm one. I use an after market JDM HKS catted twinscroll Down pipe that some cut happy Japanese man with a plasma cutter cut it below the cat. I got it for 150 on Ebay and just cut a usdm one and welded the two together. I ran the engine on usdm manifold and ecu with the exhaust avcs not plugged in for over six months with no problems until I got the time to mess with the swap. I took me a lot of trial and error to swap the manifold to sti style. Luckily the top piece of the STI manifold is only 80 to 100 bucks on ebay now. I swapped in JDM Spec B 6mt that I got on ebay for 1500 bucks. they are quite abit cheaper because they do not have a expensive DCCD unit in them. But if you want DCCD in JDM one the 04/05 DCCD unit drops right in but you will have to use 05/05 transfer gears as well. which will make it a 3.9 for the rear diff. it comes 3.54 with open diff. If you use a USDM Spec B 6mt you have to use a 06 up STI dccd and tranfer gears . 3.54 and will stay 3.54 after it is switched over. The only draw back to a ej20x/y is that it has USDM style wrx rods instead of the EJ257/5 beefier rods that come in the original engine. I swapped my back up motor. I am using a EJ207 shortblock with the Z20 Quad AVCS heads. If you buy the newer EJ20x/y with the air pumps and U20 heads. REMEMBER THAT IT TAKE NEWER STYLE 2.0 Head Gaskets that are not sold in America. So JDM U20, D20 and W20 heads all use the newer style HG, I hope someone can use this info. I done post on here very often. I build everything myself even my turbos. I have personal done everything I mentioned so I know it is possible. http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p229/grosbisous1/STI08engine1_zpsodqnq62y.jpg the metal piece on passenger top of manifold